Parfum Captive #1 J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin 2017

The stuff was called "Sigaprim" and was one of the various penicillin preparations in my childhood. I still vividly remember a screaming pink syrup. And it tasted just as artificial, thick, like a local anesthetic.

This is what the opening of 'Parfum Captive #1' reminds me of. Fungal-fuzzy would be another fitting adjective. And today, pepper is served, more spicy than aromatic. In terms of its weight in the pyramid notes, I find it moderate in use - but I'm not a benchmark, as I enjoy spicy food. Is that the reason why this candidate seems overall watery-pale to me? Even the trendy light wood is just a hint. Now, it doesn’t smell like a sawmill in a birch forest (which the manufacturer claims), so be it.

Furthermore, it seems to me that there is a hint of watery fruit in between. So de-aromatized that I can't even name it more closely. Perhaps a sucked piece of ice pop*. Actually not fruit in the strict sense, rather a slightly fruity, sour aspect of something else. Hm. Bergamot occasionally appears completely devoid of fruit and solely citrus-astringent. It’s similar here.

And finally, I read that Sichuan pepper - certainly for good reason - is also called lemon pepper and leaves a slightly numbing sensation in the mouth. Everything fits perfectly, especially since I honestly arrived at the first paragraphs completely without literary assistance. Perhaps great fragrance artistry can be sensed, although I lack the imagination to understand what that has to do with a birch forest.

As the morning progresses, the fruity part gains substance and develops dried apricot ambitions. The iris, on the other hand, remains reserved. It is fresh and only minimally carroty; the corresponding sweetness resembles that of a sip of fresh water after a long swim in the sea. On the second test day, I perceive the iris stronger, but still as subtle. A tiny splash of complementary bitterness, possibly a nanoliter of bergamot, makes the lady even more appealing. And upon reflection: Yes, 'Captive #1' can be described as an iris fragrance, cum grano salis (at least also).

As it progresses, the sour-fruity direction and the gentle sweetness from the iris corner undoubtedly create a certain internal tension, but unfortunately, the matter becomes monotonous over the afternoon in its unchanging nature.

Conclusion: The spark may not really jump, yet 'Captive #1' is a noble and universally wearable fragrance, ultimately more aura than perfume.

I thank Garcon for the sample.

* At our village shop, the aforementioned ice pop was available back then for - I believe - a groschen each; on the summery way home from elementary school in the late 70s. For the younger ones among us: The "groschen" has since fallen, namely to the euro.

"Captive #1" by Schwarzlose Berlin is a luxury perfume. As if the price didn't already give that away (though it's still reasonable for an extrait), I have to emphasize this again. It comes extremely close to my dream scent and my taste. A powdery, gentle mix of pepper with pink leaf gold, both human and extraterrestrially beautiful at the same time. Supernaturally composed. An ode. It doesn't scratch, it's not too dull or soft for me, just right. Round and razor-sharp. At least for my olfactory bulb. Wonder, wonder, wonderfully beautiful!

Watery and light (is that the lily?), yet strong in character and self-assured. Pepper in a captivating way. And the price and the extremely good scent quality are always noticeable, palpable. Great art. Minimally green and herbal, yet on my skin it comes across very soft, iris-like, almost a bit feminine. Without losing contours or becoming unwearable for men. Quite the opposite. Anyone who loves pepper scents will find this irresistible. I can't express my enthusiasm any other way. This is pink smoke from red pepper, straight from the gates of the fragrance Olympus. Why it doesn't attract even more praise is a mystery to me. It hardly gets better than this. The crowning glory for the transitional seasons. Whoever secures one of the 300 specimens has something truly precious. In every respect. A collector's item that is too good to let gather dust in the closet. If the other Captives can top this or even just maintain the level, then my fragrance year starts phenomenally...

Bottle: very expensive, simple, but also very elegant.
Sillage: absolutely wearable every day in terms of its strength. One of the most expensive signature scents I know.
Longevity: I float in a peppery scent heaven for 7-9 hours.

Conclusion: a fluffy, pink pepper cloud that has simply blown me away, enchanted me, picked me up, and taken me along. An incredible scent. Noble, wearable, refined. And that to the square. If it were in my collection, it would be one of the jewels in the top crown. Royal, indeed.

Captive #1 will take us into a birch forest. Full of wet grasses and shiny, white trunks. The sun breaks through the leaves here and there, warming the ground and us, the walkers - the guests. It’s about conveying a scent image. But also about the artistic approach to this theme. Not entirely free from abstraction.

The listing (on the manufacturer's website) of synthetic and natural components in the composition strikes me as honest and above all fair. Too often, behind niche accords, there are hardly any other synthetic fragrance materials, only these are concealed by picturesque descriptions.

Thus, Captive #1 initially radiates a somewhat damp-floral scent, with light notes that could also vaguely remind one of dew-soaked forest soil. Alongside this minimal ethereal floristry, the accord of Ambramone quickly comes into play. This is damp-woody with a slightly floral note. Some may notice the similarity to Altruist from the brand. MANE itself describes the scent as that of drying ink on paper.

I perceive the pepper components more as a dry fruitiness, e.g., from red pepper berries, subtly present. So there are no sharp impulses. The underlying cedar I somehow locate differently in my mind, but I can't really convey the olfactory difference to birch wood right now. Especially since one usually knows the resin and flowers of the birch from various other compositions.

Captive #1 feels very harmonious, but also not really woody. While I am not consciously transported into a birch forest, I do find the scent itself quite interesting. For me, it is rather minimally fruity-floral and contrasting: dry-woody. Then probably more ink and paper.