
Merlotsupern
101 Reviews

Merlotsupern
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11
Concrete & Cumin: a Brutalist Nostalgia
Miguel Matos’ Berlin is an exercise in pourhommecore, revisiting the structural density of 80s masculine powerhouses with a distinct, brutalist edge. It certainly does not shy away from the gritty reality of its namesake.
The opening is defined by a clever, abrasive juxtaposition of bitter bergamot and cumin. This accord mimics the scent of cold ash or a stale, enclosed space, evoking the specific nostalgia of a public phone box (or a club, as Matos says). While Nightclubbing attempts a similar cigarette-smoke-on-clothes vibe, Matos sustains this intro with far more conviction and longevity. It is stark, grey, and undeniably urban... something that the bottle's tag depicts pretty well.
Matos describes the scent as a personal memoir of the city’s techno scene and concrete landscape, and the progression follows this narrative arc perfectly. As the sharp, ashy top notes settle, the fragrance sheds its armor to reveal a mellow core. The dry down is a blend of soft leather, vanillin and musk that retains a "pleasantly sweaty" quality: lived-in and human rather than dirty.
Performance is solid, easily lasting 8+ hours on skin with moderate projection that creates a consistent, intimate bubble.
Berlin may be challenging as you spray it for the first time, but eventually it will become comforting and atmospheric.
All in all, Matos created a wearable and performing scent that captures the narrative of his memories of a city, and a certain subculture. Not many perfumers can achieve this.
The opening is defined by a clever, abrasive juxtaposition of bitter bergamot and cumin. This accord mimics the scent of cold ash or a stale, enclosed space, evoking the specific nostalgia of a public phone box (or a club, as Matos says). While Nightclubbing attempts a similar cigarette-smoke-on-clothes vibe, Matos sustains this intro with far more conviction and longevity. It is stark, grey, and undeniably urban... something that the bottle's tag depicts pretty well.
Matos describes the scent as a personal memoir of the city’s techno scene and concrete landscape, and the progression follows this narrative arc perfectly. As the sharp, ashy top notes settle, the fragrance sheds its armor to reveal a mellow core. The dry down is a blend of soft leather, vanillin and musk that retains a "pleasantly sweaty" quality: lived-in and human rather than dirty.
Performance is solid, easily lasting 8+ hours on skin with moderate projection that creates a consistent, intimate bubble.
Berlin may be challenging as you spray it for the first time, but eventually it will become comforting and atmospheric.
All in all, Matos created a wearable and performing scent that captures the narrative of his memories of a city, and a certain subculture. Not many perfumers can achieve this.



Cumin
ISO-E-Super
Tonka bean absolute
Vanillin
Animalic notes
Ambergris
Calabrian bergamot
Leather
Oud
Smoke
Frankincense
Oakmoss
Salt





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