06/04/2014
Apicius
222 Reviews
Apicius
Helpful Review
5
Sexy Seaman
A day at the seaside, with summer wind, a beautiful beach, fresh sea water and a clear blue sky – many perfumes linked to maritime topics seem to evoke such imaginations. Also Neil Morris' Mariner introduces itself that way to us. Yet, there is much more behind it.
Indeed, there is citric freshness underlined with the slightest floral notes in the top. But very soon, we recognize that the backbone of that freshness is rather some kind of good old washing powder musk. We see Mariner approaching us in a Captain's gala uniform, fresh from the laundry, with epaulettes and a starched shirt. Handsome as he is, nobody will be missing any aquatic notes such as Calone or the like to give him that fresh appeal. If this perfume counts as an aquatic, it does not need any of those notes.
Sunshine and fresh laundry? As soon as Mariner comes closer, we get an inkling that tells us that there might be something more to discover than just that. It is a hidden tartness, a bitter and almost resinous note one would rather expect in an opulent oriental or amber perfume, not in a light cologne. Quite disturbing when I first noticed it, and I was asking myself if it really fits in.
It made sense to me only when I finally realized what it was. The laundry musk from the top was slowly being replaced by a more animalic musk perfectly blended with woods. The character of this base note combines animality with the intimacy but also distance and tartness that the smell of dry wood can provide. I have to say this base note is gorgeous, and I don't know of any other perfume with that combination.
But animalic musks are rare, and I think they tend not to sell well. There are cheap ones with presumably acceptable quality, like Jovan musk oil. Excellent niche musks like Keiko Mecheri's seem not to get the attention they deserve. Unlike many other sorts, not many brands have a “Musk” in their lineup.
And the word musk is always confusing. It can be anything. The many different ingredients dispatched under that label may share a chemical relation, but not a common scent. A vanilla-like creamy musk has a completely different character than the darker, animalic musks.
Animalic musk has the image of having an erotic timbre. I would definitely agree to that, and Mariner is a good way to find out about it. While the more puristic Musc by Keiko Mecheri puts the animalic note right into the customers focus, Morris' Mariner has a most unusual development. A man of the sea, freshly groomed, clean-shaven and dandified slowly exposes his animalic side with every step he comes closer. If that is not sexy, then what else?
Mariner is a hidden gem in Neil Morris' collection. It is a light perfume, and being tested alongside with other, more opulent perfumes of that house, it may easily get overlooked. If not tested properly, it will appear as just another summer cologne. This is the reason why it took some years till I finally discovered it.
Mariner stands out from the collection as being one of the least typical perfumes of Neil Morris. Forget about patchouly, this time Neil Morris abandoned his usual hippie style and created something unique. Include it in your sample order, but please take your time when you test it!
Indeed, there is citric freshness underlined with the slightest floral notes in the top. But very soon, we recognize that the backbone of that freshness is rather some kind of good old washing powder musk. We see Mariner approaching us in a Captain's gala uniform, fresh from the laundry, with epaulettes and a starched shirt. Handsome as he is, nobody will be missing any aquatic notes such as Calone or the like to give him that fresh appeal. If this perfume counts as an aquatic, it does not need any of those notes.
Sunshine and fresh laundry? As soon as Mariner comes closer, we get an inkling that tells us that there might be something more to discover than just that. It is a hidden tartness, a bitter and almost resinous note one would rather expect in an opulent oriental or amber perfume, not in a light cologne. Quite disturbing when I first noticed it, and I was asking myself if it really fits in.
It made sense to me only when I finally realized what it was. The laundry musk from the top was slowly being replaced by a more animalic musk perfectly blended with woods. The character of this base note combines animality with the intimacy but also distance and tartness that the smell of dry wood can provide. I have to say this base note is gorgeous, and I don't know of any other perfume with that combination.
But animalic musks are rare, and I think they tend not to sell well. There are cheap ones with presumably acceptable quality, like Jovan musk oil. Excellent niche musks like Keiko Mecheri's seem not to get the attention they deserve. Unlike many other sorts, not many brands have a “Musk” in their lineup.
And the word musk is always confusing. It can be anything. The many different ingredients dispatched under that label may share a chemical relation, but not a common scent. A vanilla-like creamy musk has a completely different character than the darker, animalic musks.
Animalic musk has the image of having an erotic timbre. I would definitely agree to that, and Mariner is a good way to find out about it. While the more puristic Musc by Keiko Mecheri puts the animalic note right into the customers focus, Morris' Mariner has a most unusual development. A man of the sea, freshly groomed, clean-shaven and dandified slowly exposes his animalic side with every step he comes closer. If that is not sexy, then what else?
Mariner is a hidden gem in Neil Morris' collection. It is a light perfume, and being tested alongside with other, more opulent perfumes of that house, it may easily get overlooked. If not tested properly, it will appear as just another summer cologne. This is the reason why it took some years till I finally discovered it.
Mariner stands out from the collection as being one of the least typical perfumes of Neil Morris. Forget about patchouly, this time Neil Morris abandoned his usual hippie style and created something unique. Include it in your sample order, but please take your time when you test it!
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