Macassar Rochas 1980 Eau de Toilette

The opening of Macassar is one of those openings which instantly grab your attention for their uniqueness and quality. Basically, an amber-leather accord, really peculiar, ultramodern, fresh and dark, boozy and spicy, with also herbal notes and slight candied accents. It reminds a bit of that "gentle leathers" family which ranges from Bel Ami to Cuir Ottoman, but there is also a lot more. There is a terrific harmony of contrasts going on, a dusty and dry leather base blended with leafy tobacco notes, uncommon herbal notes (on the "culinary" side), with a beautiful ambery-floral-fruity side, delicate but present, warm and almost plushy in its coziness. Classic, more austere and conventional fougère drydown mostly comprising leather-mossy notes, still with spicy-floral nuances. For the first hour I basically kept thinking: "what an odd scent this is". In a totally positive way: it's exotic and mysterious, but also sophisticatedly Western in its soft and distinguished blend of amber and leather. Something to discover!

9/10

Macassar opens with a slight to moderately sweet boozy fruit laden dark woody accord before transitioning gradually to its early heart. As the composition enters its early heart the boozy fruit gradually recedes, as smooth leather melds with the sweet dark woods supported by hints of patchouli and carnation. During the late dry-down traces of the leather and woods remain as the focus shifts to a mildly sweet amber and relatively clean musk duo that finish off the development. Projection is good but longevity below average at 6-7 hours on skin.

Macassar ebony is an extremely rare exotic wood. It has been years since I encountered the stuff so I couldn't possibly remember with any precision what it should smell like. What I *can* say is Macassar the perfume does immediately conjure up memories of my limited experience with ebony wood, especially the top notes when first applied on skin. The dark sweet natural woody accord mixes perfectly with the booze drenched fruit and the later developing leather to recreate that fond memory from years past, accurate or not. Throughout the leathery woods also lie just hints of carnation and a bitter green herbal accord that is likely artemisia derived. The top and middle aspects of the composition really do smell rather unique and quite lovely. The only slight mar on the near-perfect smelling composition save its sub-par longevity lies in its late dry-down as the leathery dark woods recede, slowly giving way to a well-done smooth amber and musk tandem that is somewhat less unique. The bottom line is the discontinued $350+ per 100ml bottle on the aftermarket Macassar is a very unique leathery woods focused composition that conjures up some amazing memories, earning it an "excellent" 4 star out of 5 rating. I can easily recommend the composition fragrance-wise, but the near insane aftermarket prices it commands make sampling mandatory before ponying up the cash for a full bottle. Maybe a mini is a better investment to whip out whenever one wants to recreate those fond memories of the past.

I have long feared that if I were to finally sniff Macassar it would simply be all over for me, that the compulsion to possess a bottle at whatever price would seize me. I held on to my sample for long enough, setting it aside for over a year now. I finally broke down and donned it on my skin this morning, bracing myself for defeat.

It's a bold, oily, stark, austere woody leather, with the usual pungent herbal trappings. This would actually be revisited in Lancetti Uomo, with arguably more gusto and its oily, slick leather would be found in the more somewhat forgiving aromatic Fendi Uomo a few years later. That's it. It's quite nice, and if it were selling these days for even a hundred bucks for 50ml, I'd say, why not? It would make for another piece of history to add to the already swollen repertoire. I don't drop 400-500 on stuff like this, though. It isn't worth it, when that can go towards traveling and a new winter wardrobe, or, God forbid—savings.

Smelling Macassar comes at a time where I can appreciate without owning. It also comes at a time where I've smelled so much that I can recall other fragrances that may lend the same effect(s) but can do one or two more. I even think of fragrances like Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant, Anatole Lebreton Bois de Lumiere, L'Artisan Parfumeur TImbuktu, that are comparatively better to my nose. Macassar is great, but to say that Macassar 'is the GREATEST fragrance ever created for the male body!" would be hyperbole. It is not singular in design.

For a long time, King Arthur had been searching for the perfect scent for his round table. He had long searched in vain for the ultimate perfume that would make him invulnerable, that would spread the aura of the invincible around him in every duel, in every board meeting with his knights and squires, in every speech before the noble court. But then the moment came; he encountered Macassar by Rochas, the Holy Grail of men's fragrances, long regarded as a hidden gem, never too well-known, tucked away in the farthest corners of the most secret perfumeries of his realm. Today it stood before him, he opened the bottle - and was surprised.

No scent of postmodernity wafted towards him, no traditional fragrance, but a classic of the purest kind. Was this what he had expected from his long search? Yes and No.

Macassar is not a scent that surprises you, one that you immediately fall for, that conquers you in a storm. It is simply good, perhaps very good, and due to its complex composition, a child of its time (the 80s). Initially, the almost dry green note stands out, which opens the fragrance. Less fresh than almost dusty, more reminiscent of hay than grass. Many herbs are included, certainly also resinous tones that could come from pine needles. I can make out tarragon (if I concentrate), but not much more at first.

In the heart note, the floral notes come to the fore, jasmine, geranium, but also the woody components that seem almost daring in their blend yet conservative at the same time.

And then comes the base: Here hides my favorite: oak moss. Certainly one of the main reasons why this scent could not be continued as it is, only reformulated at best. But that would have taken away its true character, would have disenchant it.

And yes, indeed, the coconut can also be found very much to the delight of King Arthur in this fragrance and can be (at least I can imagine it) quite well distinguished. So, did he really find the Holy Grail?

For me personally, this is a 90%er. The current average rating of 88% actually reflects it quite well: just shy of very good. Once more reviews come in for this scent, the hype may settle down a bit, and the fragrance might be displaced from the top spot of men's notes. Many others have experienced this as well. And yet, there remains a special impression: Somehow, one must own a bottle or a decant of it, even if it's just a small one. I am a proud owner of two miniatures.

That may be enough.

P.S.: And another holy grail awaits behind the next castle: Patou pour homme just needs a few more reviews to easily surpass Macassar and all the others...

Hello,
this is my first comment here and I hope you can laugh and cry with me.

It was the early 80s, I was at the beginning of puberty and at a girls' gymnasium. My flirting attempts back then were limited to hitting boys I liked. Otherwise, I was quite tomboyish (short hair, always in pants), still barefoot following the brass band = a Bavarian term for late bloomers. But even then, I stuck my nose into everything and could recognize my classmates by their scent. One day I walked into the classroom and smelled - THIS FRAGRANCE! Woody, leathery, powerful, expansive, sensual, and absolutely MASCULINE. Just how a teenager imagines a "real" man. One who saves the beloved from the dragon for breakfast, builds a log cabin with his own hands at noon, and jets off to Monte Carlo in the evening to blow up the casino bank. Of course, I picked up the trail and stood in front of Heike. In the 21st century, she would probably be an influencer, for us she was just a trendsetter. Always made up, adorned with fashion jewelry, and stylishly up to date. The complete opposite of me. I always found her superficial, but in that moment, I would have wanted to lick her, she smelled so good. After I managed to extract the name Macassar from her, I absolutely had to have that heavenly scent. I even got it from Mom for Christmas. I was so happy. Without any "real guys" in my life, I had to wear it myself. I did at first, but I quickly realized - this is really a men's fragrance and has no place on a girl who is neither fish nor fowl. Still, it felt good, in the absence of physical touch, to be at least securely wrapped in masculinity.

Well, you know what comes next... A woman grows up, falls in love, and realizes that such infantile, romantic notions of men are absolute child's play. I have been with my husband for 30 years now and married to him for over 20 years. He is an artist, more of a humanist, incredibly musical, and not at all the hero in shining armor. Macassar does not suit him at all, but I no longer need to be protected from dragons.

So, now comes the really sad part. A few years ago, during a decluttering session, I threw away the almost full bottle in the trash. That was incredibly stupid, as I threw away my youth, my (then) dreams, and this incredible perfume with one stroke. Not to mention the financial loss.
However, I would have never thought that Rochas would ever discontinue this amazing fragrance. Nowadays, scents are so fast-paced, smooth, and designed to please the masses. Macassar was something truly special and I still mourn that one fragrance, my youth, and my dreams to this day.