Top Notes 
Bergamot
Lemon
Cinnamon
Plum
Rosewood
Peach
Apricot
Heart Notes 
Iris
Clove
Immortelle
Jasmine
May rose
Ylang-ylang
Base Notes 
Amber
Benzoin
Oakmoss
Civet
Leather
Musk
Patchouli
Sandalwood
Vanilla
03/25/2025
Noturfave
91 Reviews
Noturfave
2
More complex modern gourmand predecessor.
What surprised me the most about this is how sweet and juicy it is. One of the most common claims about modern perfumery I hear is how sweet everything now is compared to the past.
And maybe that's true. But Femme PdT opens up with a beautiful, slightly tart, almost photorealistic peach. I can almost taste it, even though the bottle must be 40 years old by now.
Femme fades down almost immediately away from those sweet-tart top notes, to a powdery, peachy-woody musk. It's two perfumes in one - a peach gourmand, and then a skin musk (with chypre elements).
Maybe this is why it's not like modern gourmands. It changes, but modern gourmands start and end very sweet.
I can barely detect the oakmoss. But it's there, providing a slightly bitter-vegetal depth, especially at the end. I also get scratchy woods. As for the rest of the pyramid, I really couldn't say. I don't get cinnamon, immortelle, or any of the other things that make people say this perfume is so complex and rich. It's not all that layered to me - please don't be upset, it's possible I just have an old sample.
I do know it's classical perfumery, though, with its obvious progression, long accords list, and inclusion of oakmoss, civet and musk (probably civettone and nitro musk, to be honest) and probably some amount of real sandalwood. All of which, due to scarcity, health concerns that cause IFRA prohibitions, and simple taste, are not much in use today.
Genuine question for perfumery history buffs. What came first: the health concerns and resultant regulations, or the change in taste? I don't know, and I would love help finding answers.
It bothers me how narrow taste has gotten, even in the niche world - pushing toward strongly sweet, not complex fragrances. Especially on places like TikTok.
I wish we were more interested in our history. Instead of buying things like Bitter Peach Eau de Parfum...a peach gummy ring fragrance...we could spend far less money and be adventurous with a vintage like Femme.
And maybe that's true. But Femme PdT opens up with a beautiful, slightly tart, almost photorealistic peach. I can almost taste it, even though the bottle must be 40 years old by now.
Femme fades down almost immediately away from those sweet-tart top notes, to a powdery, peachy-woody musk. It's two perfumes in one - a peach gourmand, and then a skin musk (with chypre elements).
Maybe this is why it's not like modern gourmands. It changes, but modern gourmands start and end very sweet.
I can barely detect the oakmoss. But it's there, providing a slightly bitter-vegetal depth, especially at the end. I also get scratchy woods. As for the rest of the pyramid, I really couldn't say. I don't get cinnamon, immortelle, or any of the other things that make people say this perfume is so complex and rich. It's not all that layered to me - please don't be upset, it's possible I just have an old sample.
I do know it's classical perfumery, though, with its obvious progression, long accords list, and inclusion of oakmoss, civet and musk (probably civettone and nitro musk, to be honest) and probably some amount of real sandalwood. All of which, due to scarcity, health concerns that cause IFRA prohibitions, and simple taste, are not much in use today.
Genuine question for perfumery history buffs. What came first: the health concerns and resultant regulations, or the change in taste? I don't know, and I would love help finding answers.
It bothers me how narrow taste has gotten, even in the niche world - pushing toward strongly sweet, not complex fragrances. Especially on places like TikTok.
I wish we were more interested in our history. Instead of buying things like Bitter Peach Eau de Parfum...a peach gummy ring fragrance...we could spend far less money and be adventurous with a vintage like Femme.
Noturfave
