Top Notes 
Citrus fruits
Heart Notes 
Spices
Base Notes 
Vetiver
Apicius
1328 Reviews
Apicius
Very helpful Review
6
Standing Up For Tradition
Ever since Guerlain discontinued their wonderful mossy vintage Vetiver in 2000 and replaced it with something boring, lovers of Vetiver perfumes are looking for a substitute. Among the many Vetivers around, it is the widely unknown Royall Vetiver that under a certain aspect may resemble it the most.
I have to admit, it is a bit unfair to compare those two fragrances with each other. Whereas Guerlain's vintage Vetiver was highly refined French perfumery, Royall Lyme of Bermuda is engaged in a different market sector. Besides the maritime images that these islands may evoke, Royall Lyme refers to the British tradition of this spot – and so we can mention this house in the same breath with “British” perfume brands such as D.R. Harris, Geo F. Trumper, Penhaligon's, Anglia Perfumery or Castle Forbes. What they all have more or less in common is a rather traditional approach – straightforward, classic fragrances without too much refinement, moderate prices and a certain barber shop appeal of the gents' colognes.
With only 44 $ per 4 oz one cannot expect the same level of refinement that we are used to by Guerlain and others. Royall Vetiver does not have much more longevity than an Eau de Cologne. There is some citrus, maybe the alleged spices - and then there is vetiver. Like Guerlain's take on vetiver, it is not the bitter, rough and overly smoky oil, it is rather the deeper and greener form being used here which I find more attractive. What strikes me as resembling Guerlain's vintage fragrance so much is probably the simple fact that Royall Vetiver really focusses on this note. The lack of refinement comes along with a certain lack of artistry, and the absence of any notion for a perfumer to prove his or her ingeniousness. That's the problem if you are looking for a substitute – many of the available vetivers are respectable and unique fragrances of their own, but their artistic merits will not allow you to dwell in nostalgic thoughts.
I get a little bit of that vintage Guerlain vetiver vibe out of this rather bland Royall Vetiver, and I appreciate it for that. In many aspects it does not reach the level of the original, however, I would rate it higher than Guerlain's current Vetiver. With its Eau de Cologne strength, Royall Vetiver is a beautiful refreshment – yet, it has that great green depth that a good vetiver perfume can provide. If you are open minded enough to enjoy Royall Vetiver for its closeness to the famous role model, and not criticise it for what may be missing, then go get a bottle!
I have to admit, it is a bit unfair to compare those two fragrances with each other. Whereas Guerlain's vintage Vetiver was highly refined French perfumery, Royall Lyme of Bermuda is engaged in a different market sector. Besides the maritime images that these islands may evoke, Royall Lyme refers to the British tradition of this spot – and so we can mention this house in the same breath with “British” perfume brands such as D.R. Harris, Geo F. Trumper, Penhaligon's, Anglia Perfumery or Castle Forbes. What they all have more or less in common is a rather traditional approach – straightforward, classic fragrances without too much refinement, moderate prices and a certain barber shop appeal of the gents' colognes.
With only 44 $ per 4 oz one cannot expect the same level of refinement that we are used to by Guerlain and others. Royall Vetiver does not have much more longevity than an Eau de Cologne. There is some citrus, maybe the alleged spices - and then there is vetiver. Like Guerlain's take on vetiver, it is not the bitter, rough and overly smoky oil, it is rather the deeper and greener form being used here which I find more attractive. What strikes me as resembling Guerlain's vintage fragrance so much is probably the simple fact that Royall Vetiver really focusses on this note. The lack of refinement comes along with a certain lack of artistry, and the absence of any notion for a perfumer to prove his or her ingeniousness. That's the problem if you are looking for a substitute – many of the available vetivers are respectable and unique fragrances of their own, but their artistic merits will not allow you to dwell in nostalgic thoughts.
I get a little bit of that vintage Guerlain vetiver vibe out of this rather bland Royall Vetiver, and I appreciate it for that. In many aspects it does not reach the level of the original, however, I would rate it higher than Guerlain's current Vetiver. With its Eau de Cologne strength, Royall Vetiver is a beautiful refreshment – yet, it has that great green depth that a good vetiver perfume can provide. If you are open minded enough to enjoy Royall Vetiver for its closeness to the famous role model, and not criticise it for what may be missing, then go get a bottle!
1 Comment
Eclectic
Josch
Seerose
Yatagan
