I know Iinear and /or simple fragrances are often labelled "boring", or even "bad quality" - undeservedly so. A very small pyramid, or an immediate feel for how you'll smell within minutes, doesn't say anything about the scent, the ingredients, lasting power, or how the fragrance'll make you feel. Not to mention the fact plenty perfumes that dó develop, or use a wide variety of notes in 3 tiers, end up smelling cheap or bad. Or they miss projection and longevity. Besides, I'm sure we've all known that one particular perfume that smells amazing in the opening, only to develop into a dry-down that misses your favorite accord. All reasons not to put down fragrances that lack a multitude of steps.
This Lutens, another Sheldrake creation, is a perfect example of both simple and linear. It doesn't change much, and the scent is quite straightforward from the start. The opening is short, and as soon as you hit the heart, you'll know what the dry down gives you. And, in effect, all the hours to come that Fils de Joie will be wafting of off your skin.
The fragrance opens with a full bouquet of smooth Jasmine flowers and a flirty hint of ylang-ylang. It's a heady mix, promising the sensuality I've read about. Imagine enjoying a warm evening on the balcony of a Greek apartment. You're completely relaxed after a day of culture sniffing and swimming under the sun, lounging in a cushioned chair. The warm air caresses your skin like a lover. You close your eyes and feel a soft breeze stirring the air, moving the bell shaped flowered bushes surrounding the grounds of the building. The delicious sweet, heady scent of night blooming jasmine wafts up and it's as if you're lying in a field full of blossoming flowers.
Then you remember the delicious dessert you had at dinner, how warm, rich honey drizzled off your spoon. Soon the sultry jasmine mixes in with the warm, thick honey and you fall asleep dreaming satisfying dreams...
Thàt's what you'll be projecting when wearing Fils de Joie: Fields of (night) blooming jasmine and a luscious, strong honey- dipped ylang-ylang on a clean musk that's not really perceived but merely makes sure everything stays sweet and full, not indolic. It's a scent that makes you inhale deep and often. It's heavy and rich, heady and sultry. Sweet, but utterly mature in its sensuality. While relatively simple, for me this Lutens is the ultimate mix of sophistication and carnality.
Usually a floral-musk doesn't last on me all that long. Three hours tops, with meagre projection. That certainly isn't the case here. Based on my week of wearing I can conclude we have an arm-length+ projection, going into intimate after several hours, a 10 to 12hr longevity, with a small scent trail. I did become anosmic quite fast, but the compliments from my environment told me it was still there. During the night I often noticed a delicious scent drifting upwards from my cleavage. Spraying/ dabbing around the heart works really well.
Because FdJ is definitely strong directly after initial application, a multitude of dabs (more than 10 on dry skin, more than 5 on normal/ oily) will choke everyone out. Also be careful with re-use; If you also get anosmic, check first. Reapplication might not be necessary to begin with.
[DAB, not spray]
Maybe you've noticed I used the word "dab"? That's with good reason. Serge Lutens delivers bottles with a regular screw cap - atomiser seperately [100ml bought in Oct 23]. I initially tested with a dab on my pulse and top of my hand (later on all the regular pulse points). However, being so enamoured with the fragrance I added the atomiser the next day. After all, dabbing uses up more and can cause accidental spilling (FdJ is bloodred juice, so however you wear it, be careful of clothes!).
And thus my second wear was applied with a spray, as is normal with most edp's. This is the part where I understood why one of the reviews below stated "this fragrance is meant to be dabbed". The first three hours after using the atomiser I suddenly hated this fragrance! The spray gave me a strong musk that was absolutely disgusting. Think a throat-scratchy chalky smell mixed with a very-there saliva-ish note. While the saliva scent disippated after 45 minutes, the rest of the nasty musk stayed, and swallowed the otherwise warm & sweet Jasmine whole for the most part.
Worse: the honeyed ylang that elevates the jasmines to its heady addictive sensual aroma in both heart & dry-down now gives... urine. Actual morning - I drank too little water- piss. And even though the dirty musk is mostly gone at hour 2, the urine smell remains strongly for at least a full hour after that. After 3- 3.5 hours the fragrance loses some strength overall, and it's then that we - slowly but steadily - go towards a similar-to-dab dry down. A softer, less projecting dry down, but at least you no longer smell like morning piss and bad breath.
I tested both dab & spray multiple times and each time I got the same result (thank heavens I didn't need to go somewhere). I'm utterly shocked and confused. The manner of application shouldn't influence the scent that much, right? If I hadn't been extra careful with my first test - and hadn't realised I'd read about it - I would've only sprayed as usual and then gotten rid of a perfume I would normally love. It's why I put it out here for others. Don't like it when sprayed? DAB!
When used correctly for your skin, you can expect a sweet and rich fragrance that can be used in a large part of the year. Fils de Joie doesn't need to be delegated to the cold weather shelves just because of its sweetness (nor solely to a woman's vanity!). I think it will definitely shine in lower temperatures, though I also expect it can still easily be worn in spring and summer - as long as it isn't too warm and you adapt the amount of sprays/dabs. The combination of notes makes it a rather "VavaVoom" concoction, meaning that the majority of perfume wearers (not me. I prefer to feel sexy on the daily *grin*) probably keeps it for a romantic date, going out and (other) special occassions. It'll also be perfect to boost confidence in social and business events.
No matter how and when you'll use it, this fragrance will be a love for anyone with Jasmine and Ylang Ylang/ honey on the favourite notes list.
THREE TIPS for layering:
Layering gives multiple advantages: extra projection, better longevity, upping a note that isn't coming out, or you're sorely missing in the juice, or creating your own unique scent. Here are 3 simple mixing options to get you started. Layer FdJ with>>
1. A honey forward perfume like Scandal, or Shock-In-Scent by Police. It'll make it sweeter, and keep the honey longer.
2. A beeswax centered frag. Kim Kardashian's Pure Honey for example, though perhaps Dreamhouse Ikiryo Bees and Butterflies is an option too, will make Fils de Joie even more sensual and rich, as long as both fragrances mostly give you a dark honey- real beeswax scent. Extra longevity guaranteed too.
3. YSL Libre Intense, or its stronger on vanilla-dupe Golden Decade (Zara), will kick the jasmine into the next galaxy and offer a slight extra with the orange blossom, vanilla - and if strong on your skin (not on mine) - lavender. Be careful, because both project rather strongly.
Enjoy!
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