I imagine a room with a beam of dusty light coming in from the window and illuminating a table on which there is a large sandalwood bowl. The inside of the bowl has been sprinkled with a layer of silver incense and gold benzoin grains, and on top have been placed large fresh rape palm fruits, juicy and pulpy dates of the Deglet Noor variety. The air in the room, warmed by the sun, is filled with sweet, boozy, resinous, smoky nuances. Fingers of light embrace and caress everything. That is how I imagine this perfume.
Amber Intrigue is a dynamic scent that starts with fruity and spicy nuances, touches a warm woody heart and culminates with a powdery amber trail. It can be unpleasant if you overdo it with the spray or smell it up close too soon, as happened to me. Otherwise, it opens with a deep note of dark dates, complemented by spicy and smoky accords. For a short while, the mix of the alcohol and spices gives a boozy accord akin to the Kraken Black Spiced rum. You might be surprised, as I was, by how realistic the date scent is. I expected a hint of citrus as an introduction, but it starts right away with saccharine and dense notes of date pulp, dark, sticky and opulent. The taste of a Deglet Noor date is similar to brown butter and has a very nutty finish. Maybe it is overly sweet, syrupy, cloying, or a date jam, but I am not sure if it is my cup of tea. But I let this sugary jubilation settle down and slowly something magical happens. First, I smell something reminiscent of Big Babol gum, thick, gooey. Then, a smoky and resinous accord accompanied by a warm spicy accord bursts in and invades the sweetness with an army of cinnamon bark and golden grains of olibanum. The date does not give up, but takes a back seat, leaving only its fruity side to be perceived. The more the perfume grows, the more I feel that I like it. It’s like a video game where you have to pass the first stealthy level, after which it becomes intriguing at each subsequent level, revealing secrets, hidden doors and pitfalls. So, a first level that offers a sweet and spicy opening.
It takes a good hour for the heart to open up and let the woody tones of vetiver and sandalwood emerge. Now on the skin, there is a creamy mix, at times earthy but mostly powdery thanks to the addition of violet leaves. Overall, it remains smooth, the date is still distinguishable, and the powderiness is not comparable to talcum powder. And the incense, which is now alight and burning, spreading its smoky notes over all the other notes of the choir. Thus, the middle stage is all about woody and warm whispers.
The fragrance fades and ends with a rich amber accord. It is not the salty ambroxan that has been overused in recent years and we found in "Erba Pura | XerJoff" for instance, but a vivid brown amber accord courtesy of vanilla to create dustiness, tree resins such as frankincense, myrrh and benzoin to add smokiness and musk to balance with softness. Those notes add a kind of intimacy and sensuality to perfumes and pair well with spicy and woody notes that give dark but soft powdery facets to the composition. When smelled close to the skin, it releases balsamic and smoky nuances.
Overall, it is much more than a classic amber fragrance, which stands out for its weighty character on glues such as dates and resins. Despite the explosive opening, the perfume then takes a calmer turn, with exceptional longevity I would say, remaining on the skin and clothes for many hours. It is still an intimate perfume, which does not fill the spaces while making itself noticed. I like to wear and smell it during the day, on relaxing weekend days, but its placement is that of elegant evening events in the colder months thanks to the warm, resinous and spicy accords. I like to say that I have a few fragrances featuring dates, but none of them are as heavy as this accord, and perhaps that is what makes it unique for me.
This feeling comes from a bottle I've owned since January 2025.
-Elysium