Top Notes 
Caraway
Chamomile
Coriander
Heart Notes 
Jasmine
Rose
Base Notes 
Leather
Musk
Oakmoss
Jakoparfum
55 Reviews
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Jakoparfum
Very helpful Review
9
A Rose in a Leather Corset
One of the rare fragrances created by Guy Robert for Hermes is Doblis.
It is a scent formulated with a precise idea: to reproduce the smell of leather, with which the brand Hermes makes its magnificent leather goods. It is the first in a long series for Hermes....
Doblis cannot be classified as a leathery chypre (a classification that did not exist in 1955, although Bandit by Piguet, Jolie Madame by Balmain, and Scandal by Lanvin were already present), but rather is a floral chypre, although it has a subtle and elegant leather note.
Doblis has no citrus notes in the opening, but possesses a fresh and immediately earthy aspect. The wonderful coriander note (which is present in many chypre fragrances when a cold, deeply spicy connotation was desired) serves, depending on its connection with other notes, to create the initial freshness and mimics the fresh effect of the missing citrus fruits. The thyme note gives the fragrance a slightly green and earthy nuance. The rose is immediately present: a bitter, dry, wilted rose that represents the DNA of the perfume. It appears as a rose wrapped in freshly tanned leather.
After about two hours, the fragrance becomes much more refined, subtle, and piercing. The rose is enveloped by sandalwood and oakmoss, giving the scent the right amount of "enveloping warmth." After about 6 hours, a wonderful amber note can be perceived (which is likely reconstructed with the labdanum note, although it is not present in the fragrance pyramid). The perfume is very refined, elegant, and yet magnificent in its full expression. A dreamy scent that once again confirms Guy Robert's genius.
There are similarities with Diorling Dior (leather, rose, and oakmoss), Madame Rochas, Mitsouko, Gucci N 1 for Women.
The review refers to a version of perfume extract that is unfortunately no longer produced.
It is a scent formulated with a precise idea: to reproduce the smell of leather, with which the brand Hermes makes its magnificent leather goods. It is the first in a long series for Hermes....
Doblis cannot be classified as a leathery chypre (a classification that did not exist in 1955, although Bandit by Piguet, Jolie Madame by Balmain, and Scandal by Lanvin were already present), but rather is a floral chypre, although it has a subtle and elegant leather note.
Doblis has no citrus notes in the opening, but possesses a fresh and immediately earthy aspect. The wonderful coriander note (which is present in many chypre fragrances when a cold, deeply spicy connotation was desired) serves, depending on its connection with other notes, to create the initial freshness and mimics the fresh effect of the missing citrus fruits. The thyme note gives the fragrance a slightly green and earthy nuance. The rose is immediately present: a bitter, dry, wilted rose that represents the DNA of the perfume. It appears as a rose wrapped in freshly tanned leather.
After about two hours, the fragrance becomes much more refined, subtle, and piercing. The rose is enveloped by sandalwood and oakmoss, giving the scent the right amount of "enveloping warmth." After about 6 hours, a wonderful amber note can be perceived (which is likely reconstructed with the labdanum note, although it is not present in the fragrance pyramid). The perfume is very refined, elegant, and yet magnificent in its full expression. A dreamy scent that once again confirms Guy Robert's genius.
There are similarities with Diorling Dior (leather, rose, and oakmoss), Madame Rochas, Mitsouko, Gucci N 1 for Women.
The review refers to a version of perfume extract that is unfortunately no longer produced.
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