Patchouli CO2
Borneo oud
Benzoin
Cambodian oud
Red Frangipani Absolute
Jackfruit
Pink lotus absolute
Ambergris
Honey pomelo12/13/2024
MacnZee
28 Reviews
MacnZee
1
Don't judge too quickly
Today, I revisited Sunset in Indochina by Jinkoh Store. When I first tried it a few months ago, I struggled to connect with the composition. The opening note had a green, almost mentholated, spicy and bitter quality that felt overwhelming and unfamiliar in this style of perfume. I couldn’t place its origin or purpose in the fragrance. As a result, I set it aside and moved on to other fragrances.
After letting it rest for some time, I decided to give it another chance. To my delight, the fragrance feels much more cohesive now, and that challenging opening note has settled into the composition beautifully. I’ve come to understand that this sharp, green bitterness comes from the Patchouli CO2. Once I recognized the masculine, green, earthy tones of the patchouli, I could better appreciate its presence. It reminds me of the intense, earthy patchouli found in fragrances like Fredrick Malle’s Monsieur. (I am not saying Indochina smells like Monsieur, I am saying the patchouli notes are similar to me)
Beyond the patchouli, Sunset in Indochina showcases four different oud oils: Laos, Cambodi, Malinau, and Malay Rostrata. While I’m not deeply familiar with Laos or Cambodi oud oils, the honeyed, spicy warmth of Malinau oud is unmistakable, emerging prominently about 30 minutes into the wear. Similarly, the deep, resinous, and narcotic floral tones that I associate with Malaysian oud oils seem present here, likely enhanced by the red frangipani absolute.
If I am not mistaken, these ouds are not of the traditional, aged, or fermented variety. Instead, they’re crafted using modern distillation techniques, resulting in clean, complex oils without the characteristic funkiness or barnyard notes. This modern approach allows the ouds to shine in a multifaceted, approachable way.
The composition also incorporates pink lotus, ambergris, pomelo, and jackfruit, though some notes stand out more than others. The ambergris adds a subtle minerality, lending depth and sophistication without dominating the perfume. While I lack the experience to discern pink lotus specifically and am unfamiliar with jackfruit’s aroma, I can sense a soft, underlying sweetness that could stem from these notes. As for pomelo, its citrusy acidity brightens the heavier elements of the composition in a nice way.
Overall, Sunset in Indochina opens with bold intensity. Earthy patchouli, vibrant ouds, and dark florals take center stage. Subtle hints of ambergris and citrus weave through the mix, adding lightness and complexity. While it’s not my favorite offering from the house, it has certainly grown on me. Its unique interplay of modern oud oils, earthy patchouli, and exotic florals makes for a strikingly complex and memorable fragrance.
After letting it rest for some time, I decided to give it another chance. To my delight, the fragrance feels much more cohesive now, and that challenging opening note has settled into the composition beautifully. I’ve come to understand that this sharp, green bitterness comes from the Patchouli CO2. Once I recognized the masculine, green, earthy tones of the patchouli, I could better appreciate its presence. It reminds me of the intense, earthy patchouli found in fragrances like Fredrick Malle’s Monsieur. (I am not saying Indochina smells like Monsieur, I am saying the patchouli notes are similar to me)
Beyond the patchouli, Sunset in Indochina showcases four different oud oils: Laos, Cambodi, Malinau, and Malay Rostrata. While I’m not deeply familiar with Laos or Cambodi oud oils, the honeyed, spicy warmth of Malinau oud is unmistakable, emerging prominently about 30 minutes into the wear. Similarly, the deep, resinous, and narcotic floral tones that I associate with Malaysian oud oils seem present here, likely enhanced by the red frangipani absolute.
If I am not mistaken, these ouds are not of the traditional, aged, or fermented variety. Instead, they’re crafted using modern distillation techniques, resulting in clean, complex oils without the characteristic funkiness or barnyard notes. This modern approach allows the ouds to shine in a multifaceted, approachable way.
The composition also incorporates pink lotus, ambergris, pomelo, and jackfruit, though some notes stand out more than others. The ambergris adds a subtle minerality, lending depth and sophistication without dominating the perfume. While I lack the experience to discern pink lotus specifically and am unfamiliar with jackfruit’s aroma, I can sense a soft, underlying sweetness that could stem from these notes. As for pomelo, its citrusy acidity brightens the heavier elements of the composition in a nice way.
Overall, Sunset in Indochina opens with bold intensity. Earthy patchouli, vibrant ouds, and dark florals take center stage. Subtle hints of ambergris and citrus weave through the mix, adding lightness and complexity. While it’s not my favorite offering from the house, it has certainly grown on me. Its unique interplay of modern oud oils, earthy patchouli, and exotic florals makes for a strikingly complex and memorable fragrance.
Mike165
