Oud Luwak II Areej Le Doré 2025

Areej Le Doré has been a house that thrives on the "unpleasant" edge transforming raw, primal scents into olfactory goodness by selecting and producing fine materials. With Oud Luwak II, the composition leans into its namesake: earthiness, coffee and felines. In fact, this isn't the usual oud gourmand. It is a recreation of the Luwak (natural) process or rather, its ecosystem.

By pairing vintage Burmese oud (infused with aged civet) with a custom Indonesian coffee fermented in teak barrels, the "feline" element is definitely present. It is animalic, yet handled with a level of refinement that feels like a velvet glove over a predatory claw.

In my opinion, the coup de theatre of this composition - missed by many - lies in the use of spikenard (Jatamansi). Its distinct and recognisable valerian-like aroma (bitter, medicinal, and intensely earthy) acts as the bridge between the roasted coffee beans and the animalic ouds' fumes.
This synergy enhances the "earthiness" of the oud, creating a vibe that is less "café" and more "fermenting jungle floor." The result is the definitive "pooped coffee" accord, which takes a couple of hours to fully develop: a dark, damp, resinous brew that smells of the earth from which it came and the creature that prepared it.

Oud Luwak II is another case of what I've previously termed "blocks of gold" fallacy, which will greatly intrigue the natural ingredient supremacists. The fragrance doesn't need a traditional pyramid because the materials are of such density and quality that they arrive as a singular, monolithic stack of scent.
Rather than a sequence of top, heart, and base notes, the fragrance exists and develops in a state of natural "decay." The smoke, the civet, the bitter coffee, and the damp wood hit the palate at once, and slowly recede at different paces over time.

To close the essay, let's quickly cover performance.
Longevity: substantial. This is a "skin stayer" that lasts 10-12 hours, radiating a warm, musky glow long after the initial fumigation has cleared.
Sillage: dense but very polite. It creates the usual Areej "scent bubble" rather than a room-filling cloud, which is fortunate given its profile.

Final thought: Oud Luwak II - and Areej's work in general - proves that when a house doesn't not compromise on raw materials, the price tag is justified and should be looked as a comparison anchor.

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Oud Luwak Part II, perfume Extrait.

This was the biggest surprise for me, as I didn’t expect to like it. I didn’t enjoy the original, so I didn’t foresee things to be different this time around. I was wrong, as I love this version of Oud Luwak. It fills in the gaps, improves on the woods used, adds the perfect amount of sweetness and texture, and the civet is amazing. I’m very specific about coffee accords, and I’m not a fan of Merauke Agarwood, but the way they are used here is perfect. This is not a coffee-dominant fragrance on my skin (although a prominent facet) but rather a woody perfume. Out of all the Oud perfumes Adam has released thus far, this one is the woodiest, with a heavy Merauke profile. There is nothing funky or fermented here. If you ever smelled Merauke Oud oils or wood, it has a distinctive profile - earthy, petrichor-like, slightly green or jungly, clove-like camphoraceous, smoky, peaty, chocolaty, and yes, coffee-like, to name a few nuances. That’s the kind of wood profile you’ll encounter here. But the best part is that Adam used other woods and benzoin to pamper the less “pretty” traits, and coffee to complement its innate qualities. So, instead of the usual earthiness these oils tend to evoke, here you get an “antique wooden chest” type of smell, paired with the aroma of heating agarwood chips as well as a cozy “roasted chestnuts” accord that might be a facet of the vetiver. Picture this:

You just brew a hot cup of coffee. You have some milk and honey on hand, and add a bit of both. You set the burner to medium heat and take out an antique-wooden chest full of Merauke aloes. You start adding wood to the burner, and while the smoke wafts, you inhale deeply alongside the fumes coming from the steaming cup of coffee. Then, you rub a tiny bit of civet paste on your pulse points and savor this ritual further. That’s it.

The coffee note is present throughout, but tames down as the fragrance develops. As it mingles with the oud aroma, it might give off hints of chicory coffee due to the earthiness of the oud. The latter is the main player in the composition. If you love Merauke oud and wish for a well-made perfume built around it, this is hard to beat. The wooden chest accord is omnipresent alongside the smoking wood chips and hints of toasted chestnuts. The third most prominent note is the civet. And how glorious it is. Not your sharp, punchy, and pissy civet. This is good, aged, natural stuff. It pairs with the benzoin and other notes to showcase a milky, creamy, and animalic quality that brings to mind a similar use of the material in my beloved Cadavre Exquis. However, it doesn’t go as buttery and gourmand as in there. Lastly, there is a beautiful use of cinnamon that complements the sweetness of the benzoin. Just the perfect amount of sweetness, nothing overbearing. Its smokiness is more refined than in Oud Zhen while not feeling as gourmand as Russian Oud, and behaving more woody than both. I like it better than Oud Zhen and close to Russian Oud II. It is a mouth-drooling experience from start to finish: the smooth coffee-oud fumes, the antique wood, and the milky-steamed civet with just the right amount of sweetness.

I also want to stress two things that I found with this fragrance: it smells much better on the skin, and it is better enjoyed with sprays on the neck and going out and about than smelling it up close. This is one of those cases where the aura the perfume creates is far more satisfying than a closed-up analysis. Bonus point with this one: go out and sweat. Physical exercise. Thank me later!

I’d consider this a significantly improved version over the original, more complex, and with higher-quality materials that show. A very successful resurrection.

IG:@memory.of.scents

On first spray of Oud Luwak II, I felt similarity to choco-ouds I had tried before: Oud Indochine, Lao Oud Extrait de Parfum, Oud Monarch Extrait de Parfum to a lesser extent, but deeper and more animalic, as if a dose of Al Oud had been added to one of those. It is also very light on the sweetness, bitter strong coffee and slightly stinky oud/civet notes apparent in the opening. Unlike others I've tried in this genre however, it undergoes a transformation into the heart before an additional transformation into the base/drydown. Supremely smoky Burmese oud dominates the heart of the fragrance, an hour or so in, with light fruity/spicy aspects. I don't get much in musk or florals as other reviewers are describing. Finally, in the deep drydown it gets very woody, which is a big departure from most of the fragrances of this style, which usually dry down ambery/resinous/slightly sweet. But here it's a dry cedar/vetiver combination that offers no respite from the woody overload of Oud Luwak II. The benzoin and cistus are hardly noticeable as separate components, possibly providing some mildness and balance to the main accords.

It's a very specific fragrance with a very specific customer in mind. You have to really like bitter notes, animalic notes, woody notes, without the sweetness or florals that usually counterbalance these. It's right up my alley though. The smokiness is not overwhelming, and the woody and animalics are balanced well, even if the sweetness is not there. It's a bit heavy-handed, like other Areej Le Dore creations. 3 sprays is more than enough, it will project like crazy for the first couple of hours then subside and become a skin scent for the next 6 or so, providing a nice cozy warmth around yourself. Wearability is definitely an issue, you have to be supremely confident to pull this one off. It's a difficult balance between spraying conservatively in order to avoid being insensitive, usually a sign of lack of confidence, and being self-assured enough to wear this beast.

Those who know me well, especially in the perfume collectors community, know that I’have a deep appreciation for deer musk & not much of an Oud person.
But one time, I tried Oud Luwak II with a friend, & fell in love with it right away for two reasons: First, I was sure there is deer musk here. Second, that’s the 1st oud perfume that got my full attention.

To my surprise, after reading the notes, I found out that there is no deer musk mentioned, which I didn't expect as I was under the deer musk impressiont. This made me really curious that I had to write Russian Adam to ask him personally & he was kind enough to enlighten me with his answer. Quoting his reply, he explained:
“No musk but something that can remind of it”

And now, let’s dive into Oud Luwak II
Are you ready ?

Intense oily opening full of Oud with animalic character to it, with chard wood full of smokiness, there is a hint of sweetness to it.
The animalic note is to the point here.
Seven minutes in, you can sende the freshness & spiciness, along with green & bitter notes rise with light fermented coffee.
As It cools down a bit, you will experience the change where it becomes smokier & more musky with hints of fresh greenery, spices along with a blend of faint bitterness and slight sweetness.
Everything is well balanced. it’s very attractive & full of character with a long, long finish.
Hints of Coffee is detected & it is not the main player here; it’s the oud with its animalic profile & the smokiness from chard wood. (It’s so smoky, so good I love it)
Interesting long opening!

Cooler & smokier than the opening, the heart brings in more grassy notes with less bitterness, but at the same time, slightly more on the sweet side.
It’s deep, warm ambery, woody, animalic, earthy, musky, smoky, a bit medicinal & leathery with a dash of sweetness enough to tease you.

The oud with vintage civet paste are royal & very attractive, as for the smokiness, it's captivating& fascinating. I’m in love!

The aftermath of the long opening & the warm heart, draws you into the coolest stage of them all: The base is full of smoky cedar, with balsamic notes & Oud with a slight cheesy character.
(A bit similar to Russian Oud without its sweetness)
It feels earthy, a bit dusty & the animalic soft realistic notes are detectable, with a warm balsamic vanilla-like undertone to it.
It softens a lot in comparison to how it started.
This is a long start to finish, only wishing for it to be longer. (This is how much I’ve enjoyed this journey)

For me, this is a classy, luxurious, very warm, attractive, & comforting scent profile.

This is a masterpiece by all means!
And now I only wish for Oud Luwak III

Oud Luwak II is for veteran noses only.
Performance here is excellent & sillage is room filling & I advise you to don’t over spray this. 4,5 sprays is enough, it stayed on my skin till the next day.
IG @Sir.Fragrances

Areej Le Doré Oud Luwak II is a fragrance that doesn’t try to please everyone, and that’s exactly where its appeal lies. It feels artisanal, deep, and unapologetically niche. From the first spray, it’s clear this is not a polished, crowd-pleasing composition, but rather something built around texture, raw materials, and atmosphere.nnThe opening is dark and intriguing, centered around roasted coffee and oud. This is not a sweet or creamy coffee note — it feels bitter, earthy, and slightly smoky, more like freshly ground beans mixed with dry wood and resin. The first few minutes can be intense and even challenging, especially if you’re not used to animalic or natural-leaning fragrances.

As the scent develops, it becomes richer and more layered. The coffee softens and blends into a heart dominated by oud, spices, and resins. There’s a noticeable animalic warmth, most likely from civet, but it’s controlled and well integrated.

Performance is solid and reliable.
Longevity is strong, easily lasting through an evening and often well beyond, especially on clothing.
Projection stays moderate, creating a personal scent bubble rather than announcing itself loudly. It’s noticeable to those nearby, but never overwhelming.

It’s not a safe blind buy, and it doesn’t try to be one.