Tomkleins

Tomkleins

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Tomkleins 3 months ago 5 2
8
Sillage
10
Longevity
7.5
Scent
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Wobbly candidate.
Chandigarh Express opens cool and medicinal. Primarily cardamom, directly followed by bright floral components and a leather accord can be heard. Unfortunately, this combination smells rather sterile and generic, especially in the top note.
As soon as the top note has subsided, it becomes more exciting and complex. The leather accord becomes one with the woody, smoky and resinous base notes, surrounded by light-flooded floral components. All components flow smoothly into one another here, always remaining transparent and elegant.
An exciting development and definitely a fragrance that I will test again.
One point of criticism on my part, apart from the opening, is the purchase price of Chandigarh Express. However, this seems to be a recurring theme with Ex Nihilo for me. I don't see any exceptional quality or similar factors here that should justify the price.
Test before you buy. ;)
2 Comments
Tomkleins 7 months ago
1
Bottle
9
Sillage
10
Longevity
9
Scent
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The Quentin Bisch experiment.
Quentin Bisch, although not listed here, is the perfumer behind "Art Collection - Sidra Wood | Al-Jazeera / الجزيرة". It seems to me that Bisch was specifically instructed to combine elements from successful fragrances into "Art Collection - Sidra Wood | Al-Jazeera / الجزيرة" and add an oriental twist. It could be understood as an attempt to create a hypebeast Frankenstein fragrance.
The first déjà vu is experienced in the opening of "Art Collection - Sidra Wood | Al-Jazeera / الجزيرة", here the fragrance is virtually congruent with Bisch's own work "B683 (Eau de Parfum) | Marc-Antoine Barrois". So congruent that the two fragrances can hardly be distinguished in the first few minutes.
In the heart notes, the spicy ambroxan leather from "B683 (Eau de Parfum) | Marc-Antoine Barrois" is complemented by a slightly sweetened rose oud. This blend actually works well together, the rose oud forming a dark base while spices and the ambroxan leather swirl around weightlessly. So far, so good.
But then, probably due to high ambroxan content and some sweetness, "Art Collection - Sidra Wood | Al-Jazeera / الجزيرة" actually has similarities to "Baccarat Rouge 540 (Eau de Parfum) | Maison Francis Kurkdjian" in the emission. Whether this is intentional or not, let's see.
"Art Collection - Sidra Wood | Al-Jazeera / الجزيرة" is actually not unexciting, but at the same time feels very uninspired.
A fragrance like déjà vu, so or so it can be described.

For my part, I would rather support Marc-Antoine Barrois with his original "B683 (Eau de Parfum) | Marc-Antoine Barrois". Here the flacon is also high-quality & beautiful, the Al Jazeera flacon is really horrible for my personal feeling.
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Tomkleins 7 months ago 9 4
9
Sillage
10
Longevity
8
Scent
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Countless.
A new fragrance from Louis Vuitton and the enthusiasm is great. Countless sharings fill as if by itself.
Here is my first impression of the new Extrait.
Myriad opens pretty frontally with oud - real oud with a pleasant dose of bite. The oud shows itself here from its leathery, woody side and is in any case more tolerable than the oud in "Pur Oud | Louis Vuitton".
Quickly, the fragrance softens, especially ambrette, synthetic musk and a light red rose sweetened by cocoa make themselves felt. Distantly, (oak) moss can be guessed, this becomes more and more present in the course. Myriad oscillates here between red rose and green moss, framed by generously dosed ambrette & musk. Oud gives body, depth and a touch of animalic.
All in all, a very fluffy, round fragrance that reminds me in its texture of "Fleur du Désert | Louis Vuitton".
You could categorize Myriad as an oriental chypre put together with French sophistication.
Durability and sillage are above average, a spray lasts a day on the skin, on clothes several days.
I do not know yet quite whether I like Myriad or not, but well done he is.
4 Comments
Tomkleins 3 years ago 36 4
10
Sillage
10
Longevity
9.5
Scent
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Hate at first sight.
A few seconds after my first test, I had written off The Moon. Sensational, but not for me. Too loud, too overloaded, too sweet. The test strip ends up in the trash.
After a few months, I am repeatedly in a relevant luxury department store in Berlin to test fragrances. I want to give The Moon another chance. I keep the test strip with me for a while while I test other fragrances. The Moon gradually calms down and becomes quite exciting, but the squeaky raspberry note gets to me. The test strip lands repeatedly in the trash.
More months go by, I'm back in the aforementioned department store. The Moon. Shall I try again? All right, one last try.
My image of The Moon slowly began to change, the test strip appealed to me more and more. On the skin with it, let's give it a try.
I leave the department store, the sun is shining, mask can finally off, I smell my wrist. Damn, somehow it's good.
A short time later, The Moon was then allowed to move in with me.

The Moon opens with overdriven ambrox berries that seem slightly fermented sweet and sour. Not listed as a note, but definitely quickly perceived is cumin / cumin. Cumin was dosed great here, in my opinion, and is not too sweaty, but forms a great physical counterpoint to the synthetic berries.
In particular, in the heart note is for me when inhaling deeply a quite pleasant dirty-smoky oud to hear, again exquisitely dosed and embedded in the overall composition. Frankincense acts on me as a light lift of the already mentioned notes, rose rather background.
The berries are still present and literally dance on the underground of oud, each inhalation tingles. The Moon is especially uplifting at this stage and is a real experience. Julien Rasquinet shows here in my opinion skillfully how contrasts can playfully and yet harmoniously together.
The base of The Moon presents itself creamy, slightly leathery and almost powdery. An impression that lingers on the skin until the next day.

Still a few final words.
The Moon should be dosed sparingly in my opinion, one spray is more than enough. The fragrance projects like crazy especially in the first few hours and lasts as mentioned until the next day.
Especially oud purists and critics of synthetic ingredients will probably find their worst nightmare here.
However, those who encounter The Moon without prejudice and with a little patience can definitely look forward to a playful, multi-layered fragrance that is more nuanced than one might think at first glance.
4 Comments
Tomkleins 3 years ago 14 2
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
9.5
Scent
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Tradition in the modern age.
Sometimes it does not take much to inspire me
Ghala is a straight forward Rose-Oud fragrance that skillfully shows that Rose-Oud is not equal to Rose-Oud. At the same time, Ghala shines through decidedly high-quality raw materials and a finely balanced composition.

In the top note is a green seeming citrus-spicy Taif Rose, as well as Indian rose, closely followed by an aromatic Indian Kalakassi Oud.
As a reference, you can bring up Malik Al Taif by Areej Le Doré. The opening of the two fragrances is indeed comparable, although in Malik Al Taif was processed far more animalistic oud.
Ghala is here more elegant, less demanding and the oud is rather delicate animalic.
The heart notes hint at incense and cedar, but the scent remains green-citrus-spicy on a shimmering bed of oud.
In the base, Ghala evolves into a wonderfully creamy sandalwood-patchouli-vetiver-oud blend, losing some of its effervescence.
Ghala strikes me as very celebratory, uplifting and bright throughout, with beautiful depth from the processed ouds, without being heavy or too much.

With Ghala you get a perfume that is beautifully balanced and you can smell its natural quality.
Durability & Sillage are excellent by 25% fragrance oil content, without being penetrating.
The price of 350EUR for 100ml is for my feeling more than appropriate.

Ghala is worth your time & a test in my opinion, even if you already own one or more Rose-Oud fragrances. :)
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