Top Notes 
Clary sage
Corn mint
Wild fennel
Heart Notes 
Angelica
Oakmoss
Clover
Mastic
Galbanum
Fern
Violet leaf
Base Notes 
Labdanum
Mushrooms
Balsam
Humus
Pine needle
Vetiver
Roasted chestnut
Leather
09/15/2013
Drseid
821 Reviews
Drseid
Very helpful Review
8
Creating The Near Impossible...
Chypre Mousse opens with a eucalyptus-like aromatic herbal mint accord with hints of the hay-like coumarin base note making its presence known quite early. As the fragrance moves to the early heart the coumarin grows in its intensity, mixing with mossy green tree moss as the aromatic herbal mint remains in diminished support. During the late dry-down the coumarin and moss remain, now joined by sharp slightly lemony vetiver and coniferous balmy green fir with the early aromatic mint now extinguished. Projection is excellent, and longevity outstanding at well over 15 hours on skin.
Nowadays I immediately grow skeptical of any fragrance claiming to be a classic chypre, as IFRA restrictions on the key ingredients used to make one have made it near impossible. Recent releases using the chypre name that have impressed many others like Chypre Palatin just did not quite cut it for me. That said, while I suspect tree moss has been substituted for oak moss here either entirely or to a very large degree, the aromatic moss and coumarin fern-like fougere approximation is quite believable, being about as close to the real deal as can be released nowadays. Vetiver asserting itself late in the development provides a rather potent backbone that was somewhat unexpected, but welcome. After a while as it melds with the balmy coniferous aspects during the late dry-down it can get a bit overpowering, wearing one down over time so perhaps a touch less vetiver and fir late would have been more effective, but that is a minor gripe in such an overall fine effort. The bottom line is the 120 Euro per 100ml bottle Chypre Mousse delivers the classic chypre goods; and its ability to create a truly believable chypre approximation despite conforming to IFRA restrictions is even more impressive than its fine smelling results, earning an "excellent" 4 stars out of 5. Definitely recommended.
Nowadays I immediately grow skeptical of any fragrance claiming to be a classic chypre, as IFRA restrictions on the key ingredients used to make one have made it near impossible. Recent releases using the chypre name that have impressed many others like Chypre Palatin just did not quite cut it for me. That said, while I suspect tree moss has been substituted for oak moss here either entirely or to a very large degree, the aromatic moss and coumarin fern-like fougere approximation is quite believable, being about as close to the real deal as can be released nowadays. Vetiver asserting itself late in the development provides a rather potent backbone that was somewhat unexpected, but welcome. After a while as it melds with the balmy coniferous aspects during the late dry-down it can get a bit overpowering, wearing one down over time so perhaps a touch less vetiver and fir late would have been more effective, but that is a minor gripe in such an overall fine effort. The bottom line is the 120 Euro per 100ml bottle Chypre Mousse delivers the classic chypre goods; and its ability to create a truly believable chypre approximation despite conforming to IFRA restrictions is even more impressive than its fine smelling results, earning an "excellent" 4 stars out of 5. Definitely recommended.
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