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Notes05/20/2019
Maggy4u
76 Reviews
Maggy4u
For Texas
For the 2019 London Craft Week there were only three fragrances that really appealed to me from the Jimmy Beaumont Perfume Collection. There is Paul Schütze Duft, who was unfortunately a unique specimen for an installation in the lobby of the Beaumont Hotel. The Great Gatsby by Ormonde Jayne, which I could already discuss here. (Here you can find more information about the idea behind "Rebels and Rogues: Creating Bespoke Perfumes".)
And then there was "The 300 Club of Floris", dedicated to Mary Louise "Texas" Guinan. A strong woman who not only made a name for herself in the time of prohibition as an actress in theatre and film, but also as the Queen of the Night.
Her "300 Club" in New York City was the address for exuberant celebrations - outside the law. From dancers to alcohol. She greeted her wealthy, famous and selected clientele with her raunchy "Hello Suckers" and earned thunderous applause and above all respect for her toast and short speeches - in a strongly male-dominated epoch. What hides behind the credo and club principle "speakeasy" in English could be translated as "free snout" in German. But it also stood for a complete rejection of state constraints. She wouldn't let anybody tell her what to do. She said freely what she thought and what she disliked. Lived her life to the fullest and died too early, at the age of 49. An icon of her time - the "Roaring Twenties", but above all also a strong woman, who was far ahead of her time not only in questions of equal rights and who even today - 100 years later - should never be forgotten.
Floris now pays tribute with its bespoke fragrance - "The 300 Club" - in honour of Texas.
*
The 300 Club starts with a deep spicy, herbal mood. This lies in a very natural area of basil, clary sage and oregano, some carnation. A lemon close to the skin and some juniper add the necessary hesperides, so that the fragrance has a chypre DNA. This is easily gloomy, perhaps simply adult and clearly craftsmanship more thoughtful, than some "Neo-Chypre" of the present-day time. Of course, the Chypre fragrance is one that leaves plenty of room for discovery and experimentation with the greatest leeway and thus with increasing complexity.
So The 300 Club doesn't even offer a really perceptible, dominant citric, but concentrates fully on its heart and base notes. Rather, I would like to say, this fragrance does not actually having a pyramide at all, but of skilfully creating a continuous aura.
This is achieved above all by the lavender, which brings in a tender nuance of a cologne and expensive soap, very subliminal, and with the rather muted flowers, such as the above-mentioned carnation, remains harmonious and wonderfully unfloral.
Under all these, very mature, "pour homme" chords, soft notes of cedar and suede linger, which only play out their full beauty in the scent and become more perceptible or more dominant after approx. 3 hours. Especially the moss finds its place here. Light smoke rounds off the composition.
"The 300 Club" is a bold, non-citric chypre with a remarkable wearability and serenity with herbaceous chords. It seems strong and serene. It is in every moment on the point and works thereby like a time traveller. Like the spirit of Texas.
From the '20s, into the '20s, of this, our century.
And then there was "The 300 Club of Floris", dedicated to Mary Louise "Texas" Guinan. A strong woman who not only made a name for herself in the time of prohibition as an actress in theatre and film, but also as the Queen of the Night.
Her "300 Club" in New York City was the address for exuberant celebrations - outside the law. From dancers to alcohol. She greeted her wealthy, famous and selected clientele with her raunchy "Hello Suckers" and earned thunderous applause and above all respect for her toast and short speeches - in a strongly male-dominated epoch. What hides behind the credo and club principle "speakeasy" in English could be translated as "free snout" in German. But it also stood for a complete rejection of state constraints. She wouldn't let anybody tell her what to do. She said freely what she thought and what she disliked. Lived her life to the fullest and died too early, at the age of 49. An icon of her time - the "Roaring Twenties", but above all also a strong woman, who was far ahead of her time not only in questions of equal rights and who even today - 100 years later - should never be forgotten.
Floris now pays tribute with its bespoke fragrance - "The 300 Club" - in honour of Texas.
*
The 300 Club starts with a deep spicy, herbal mood. This lies in a very natural area of basil, clary sage and oregano, some carnation. A lemon close to the skin and some juniper add the necessary hesperides, so that the fragrance has a chypre DNA. This is easily gloomy, perhaps simply adult and clearly craftsmanship more thoughtful, than some "Neo-Chypre" of the present-day time. Of course, the Chypre fragrance is one that leaves plenty of room for discovery and experimentation with the greatest leeway and thus with increasing complexity.
So The 300 Club doesn't even offer a really perceptible, dominant citric, but concentrates fully on its heart and base notes. Rather, I would like to say, this fragrance does not actually having a pyramide at all, but of skilfully creating a continuous aura.
This is achieved above all by the lavender, which brings in a tender nuance of a cologne and expensive soap, very subliminal, and with the rather muted flowers, such as the above-mentioned carnation, remains harmonious and wonderfully unfloral.
Under all these, very mature, "pour homme" chords, soft notes of cedar and suede linger, which only play out their full beauty in the scent and become more perceptible or more dominant after approx. 3 hours. Especially the moss finds its place here. Light smoke rounds off the composition.
"The 300 Club" is a bold, non-citric chypre with a remarkable wearability and serenity with herbaceous chords. It seems strong and serene. It is in every moment on the point and works thereby like a time traveller. Like the spirit of Texas.
From the '20s, into the '20s, of this, our century.
