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04/09/2019
Konsalik
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Konsalik
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11
The doctrine of eternal return
The lament about constantly repeating fragrance signatures in our time echoes on Parfumo on every corner - and not without good reason. The assumption, which has become a running gag, that all big labels now use a single, huge, well guarded tank to fill their dribblingly different versions of the same thing, does not lack a certain traceability. The ever shorter intervals of the "Revivals" in fashion and (pop) culture are also tiring, not least because they seem to refer to general tendencies of slackening.
If, on the other hand, the intervals of recognition are longer than the duration of a generation or even an average human life, the eyebrow of the recognizer is raised. The cyclical seems to be indicated, connections that are beyond the power of disposal of individuals. A touch of strange sublimity which no one else than Friedrich Nietzsche for the first time threw at the Western public with his doctrine of the "Eternal Return" (or "Second Coming"): Rather in the context of a mystical show, for a strictly logical philosophy, he sketched out a conception of our world in which all things and patterns repeat themselves in a strict, albeit in some cases inscrutable sequence, or reappear and become visible. Which should logically include the perfumers' fragrance preferences. And indeed: The "Curzon Cologne" published in 1882 clearly smells like the eighties - the 20th century!
After spraying on from the sample atomizer, I initially thought I had misused myself and instead caught my bottling of "Lapidus pour Homme": the slightly sweaty-bissy (Labdanum!), as it were diffusely fresh "sportiness" reminded me strongly of this classic of Powerhouse fragrances. The similarity is not limited to individual notes, but rather (especially in the first half hour) the entire tuning, the direction of the composition clearly reminds of scents of that time: Strongly spicy, slightly animalistic and at the same time peculiarly "clean". Only after a while do typical British fragrance components such as carnation and the typical "Trumper caraway" (not listed here) come to wear in a slightly fresher, barbershop-typical configuration and soften the 80s effect a little. Also the - in comparison to beasts like "Lapidus pour Homme" or "Sex Appeal" - more humane durability and Sillage refer to the Old English origin.
Strange coincidence, although probably less mystical than funny: in the same year, when "Curzon Cologne" was put on the shelves of the Trumper flagship store in Curzon Street for the first time, Nietzsche's "Fröhliche Wissenschaft" appeared. In their fourth book ("Sanctus Januarius"), in the 341st section, Nietzsche formulated for the first time his idea of eternal return, in order to elaborate it in the following years to one of the central aspects of his late work. What a meaningless coincidence!
If, on the other hand, the intervals of recognition are longer than the duration of a generation or even an average human life, the eyebrow of the recognizer is raised. The cyclical seems to be indicated, connections that are beyond the power of disposal of individuals. A touch of strange sublimity which no one else than Friedrich Nietzsche for the first time threw at the Western public with his doctrine of the "Eternal Return" (or "Second Coming"): Rather in the context of a mystical show, for a strictly logical philosophy, he sketched out a conception of our world in which all things and patterns repeat themselves in a strict, albeit in some cases inscrutable sequence, or reappear and become visible. Which should logically include the perfumers' fragrance preferences. And indeed: The "Curzon Cologne" published in 1882 clearly smells like the eighties - the 20th century!
After spraying on from the sample atomizer, I initially thought I had misused myself and instead caught my bottling of "Lapidus pour Homme": the slightly sweaty-bissy (Labdanum!), as it were diffusely fresh "sportiness" reminded me strongly of this classic of Powerhouse fragrances. The similarity is not limited to individual notes, but rather (especially in the first half hour) the entire tuning, the direction of the composition clearly reminds of scents of that time: Strongly spicy, slightly animalistic and at the same time peculiarly "clean". Only after a while do typical British fragrance components such as carnation and the typical "Trumper caraway" (not listed here) come to wear in a slightly fresher, barbershop-typical configuration and soften the 80s effect a little. Also the - in comparison to beasts like "Lapidus pour Homme" or "Sex Appeal" - more humane durability and Sillage refer to the Old English origin.
Strange coincidence, although probably less mystical than funny: in the same year, when "Curzon Cologne" was put on the shelves of the Trumper flagship store in Curzon Street for the first time, Nietzsche's "Fröhliche Wissenschaft" appeared. In their fourth book ("Sanctus Januarius"), in the 341st section, Nietzsche formulated for the first time his idea of eternal return, in order to elaborate it in the following years to one of the central aspects of his late work. What a meaningless coincidence!
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