This fragrance is perfect for me. It combines everything I love in scents: freshness, sharp, slightly bitter citrus notes, paired with a soothing, fruity orange/tangerine note and masculine spiciness. All of this is beautifully restrained, so I don't get tired of it even with continuous wear. Moreover, it is so well-tuned and balanced that all components can breathe. Even the patchouli and oakmoss, which can quickly get on my nerves, are perfectly integrated here, accentuating the base note without dominating it.
Fragrance Development:
The top note consists of a super zesty citrus, beautifully sharp and penetratingly fresh. Almost immediately, the orange notes lean in and are congenially supported by exotic fruits, which create a fitting and simultaneously full-bodied soft fruity counterbalance to the bitter citrus, minimally floral-flanked. At the same time, you can already sense the wonderfully herbaceous-masculine spice note, which is typical of its time, slightly out of time and wonderfully distinctive. It fits perfectly into the overall composition, creating a fresh, unripe bitter, exotic-fruity, masculine-spicy orange scent that is so light-heavy-weighted fresh and invigorating that I can only kneel before it. The slightly bitter orange is at the center of the fragrance, and all other components support it with such well-balanced strength. Over time, the fragrance becomes almost imperceptibly softer from minute to minute and ends in a restrained drydown, which gives it a minimal, fitting woodiness with slight woody and mossy undertones, without restricting the freshness, fruitiness, and spiciness in any way.
Interlude:
Compared to its successor Eau d‘Orange Verte (current version!, I haven't tested an older one yet), the Eau de Cologne is sharper, clearer, zestier, and more herbaceous at the beginning. Over time, the freshness holds up better, the exotic fruitiness is the same, and I perceive the masculine spiciness as more pronounced and conservative. In the drydown, the Eau de Cologne is also a bit more pronounced. The current Verte feels a bit too soft to me in comparison, somewhat sticky in the middle part, and slightly pasty in the drydown. This may sound like a not-so-great fragrance, but that is not the case. It just seems that way to me in comparison. On its own, it is a good one. And lasts longer.
Longevity and Sillage:
For that is the only criticism, but one should not have utopian expectations with a Cologne. Depending on the day, I only perceive the scent well for about 2 to a maximum of 3 hours, after which it only appears here and there in a mini-splash again, or I have to concentrate particularly hard on it. The sillage is also absolutely restrained from the beginning, which I find pleasant. A little more would have been nice though ;).
Conclusion:
A fragrance for refreshing and breathing, but with character. For me, it embodies an elegant, masculine, incredibly invigorating scent. Excellent as a mood lifter and daily, fresh-distinctive, and pleasantly restrained companion. Slightly out of time. Precisely modulated. For me, a masterpiece. No other fragrance has fascinated me for such a long time. This composition of zesty, sharp citrus, sweet exotic fruits, and this special masculine spice results in a wonderful, finely woven, and perfectly coordinated total work of art.
P.S.: The advertising posters from back then are worth a look for every fragrance lover and every outdoor sports enthusiast. Just thinking of the two deep snow skiers framed by the forest leaving their tracks in the fresh white, or the windsurfer bravely riding a giant wave in strong winds, gives you an impression of the fragrance character. To be seen at www.fragrantica.de.