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Lutèce 1984 Eau de Toilette

8.2 / 10 20 Ratings
A popular perfume by Houbigant for women, released in 1984. The scent is floral-woody. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Floral
Woody
Powdery
Spicy
Sweet

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
GeraniumGeranium AldehydesAldehydes Mandarin orangeMandarin orange Brazilian rosewoodBrazilian rosewood
Heart Notes Heart Notes
CedarCedar Lily of the valleyLily of the valley Orris rootOrris root VetiverVetiver PeonyPeony RosemaryRosemary
Base Notes Base Notes
HeliotropeHeliotrope MuskMusk VanillaVanilla CinnamonCinnamon Tonka beanTonka bean
Ratings
Scent
8.220 Ratings
Longevity
7.819 Ratings
Sillage
6.718 Ratings
Bottle
6.229 Ratings
Submitted by Lissy · last update on 03/10/2024.
Source-backed & verified
Interesting Facts
In 1994 Dana earned the trademark rights.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
Ombre Rose L'Original (Eau de Parfum) by Jean-Charles Brosseau
Ombre Rose L'Original Eau de Parfum
Lutèce (Parfum) by Houbigant
Lutèce Parfum
Lutèce (Eau de Parfum) by Houbigant
Lutèce Eau de Parfum
Etoffes de Parfum - Soie Sage by Jardin de France
Etoffes de Parfum - Soie Sage
Lutèce (Light Cologne) by Houbigant
Lutèce Light Cologne
Dark Amber & Ginger Lily by Jo Malone
Dark Amber & Ginger Lily

Reviews

2 in-depth fragrance descriptions
BronxBeauty

58 Reviews
BronxBeauty
BronxBeauty
Helpful Review 3  
Peony-Iris-Powder
Houbigant Lutece, launched with a splash in 1984 (I remember the advertising featured a ritzy-looking blond), is what you might call a gothic floral: a deathly dark peony-iris concoction that becomes drier and more powdery the longer it hangs on. (Many have noted that it is reminiscent of Ombre Rose Original -- see the darkness motif?) Like a number of fumes from Houbigant's catalogue, Lutece got sold to Dana, which promptly ruined it. Ah well.
0 Comments
Seerose

775 Reviews
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Seerose
Seerose
Top Review 0  
beautiful classic - still contemporary
What do I see: Not commented yet? It's about time, Water Lily: Get to work!
Lutèce is one of the classics from the second half of the 20th century that I would still consider buying today. Many heavy, musk-laden orientals from that time have never won me over. For me, they have rightly been replaced by more modern, complex, and lighter fragrances. But I didn't know Lutèce back then. In general, the Houbigant fragrances are still unmatched for me. For example, when I think of "Quelques Fleurs".
I have a sample of the vintage version, both an EdP and an extrait/perfume in a mini bottle, for testing. The extrait is even more restrained and the expression of the individual notes is more intertwined.
Lutèce starts with a harsh woody note, underlaid with a zesty citrus scent - I would rather suspect kumquat than mandarin - and spices. The fine rosewood smells authentic and slightly bitter.
The further development reveals even more spicy fougère notes, while a bright citrus accord remains above it all. Thus, Lutèce still stays light and unobtrusive. I don't miss the musk that often seems too dominant and intrusive for me during this time, which only appears as a hint or rather seems to be included in the list. The flowers play second fiddle. I would neither classify Lutèce as a floral fragrance nor as a harsh chypre. Nevertheless, with its woodiness, the distinctly perceivable rosemary, and some spices, Lutèce seems to me to be a modern form of a chypre.
As soon as the heart note opens up, I can also smell the soapy aldehydes. Smoky vetiver, which I can't perceive individually here, and cedar create a unique potpourri with the floral scents.
Resinous amber notes, which are not listed, keep the fragrance overall balsamic, spicy, woody, and bitter-herb for a long time.
The heliotrope with tonka and vanilla, cinnamon in the base, allows the fragrance to fade gourmand after a long time without completely losing the balsamic-woody and yet always slightly zesty citrus accord.
Even though I dissect these individual notes so meticulously and strive to identify them with intense sniffing: It is a wonderfully composed perfume as a whole.
I wonder if Dana's version has remained just as unique? Hopefully, it would be nice.
12 Comments

Statements

2 short views on the fragrance
13
8
My sister wore this at 13! She picked it out herself. Aldehydic Youngster Chanel No. 5 vibes, powdery, great, gentle drydown.
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8 Comments
3
1
Starts with a bitter-woody-citrusy-fresh rose geranium, followed by a subtle floral mix, base is balsamic-resinous, slightly bitter. Moderate Chypre.
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1 Comment

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