Uncommented Scents No. 32
Sikkim is an Indian state located in the eastern Himalayas, neighboring Nepal and Bhutan, sparsely populated and situated at the extreme northern edge of the giant state of India. LUSH attributes a special charm to the girls from Sikkim: "swaying hips and a knowing look," it says in the advertising for Sikkim Girls.
That I, as a men's cologne specialist, would comment on a fragrance called Sikkim Girls, I could not have dreamed of a few months ago. At that time, I had not yet delved deeply into the fragrances from LUSH, which currently fascinate me greatly. While the concept of LUSH generally lies somewhat outside the mainstream (vegan and vegetarian products, no animal testing, original store concept, environmentally friendly packaging), the manufacturer is certainly no longer a niche phenomenon; after all, there are now LUSH stores in many larger European cities, fortunately also in my hometown, making testing and trying easy.
Particularly pleasant is the wide range of bottle sizes at LUSH. Since, according to the manufacturer, it is generally about perfume (more likely Eau de Parfum), many fragrances are also available in a practical 10 ml travel or sample size, allowing for affordable purchases of many scents. To my greatest surprise, I have also never experienced that the (mostly very young) salespeople in LUSH stores try to push buyers into the maximum bottle size. On the contrary, I have been advised several times to try the smaller bottle first. Exemplary!
The purchase of my Sikkim Girls bottle (I also chose the 10 ml version and noted it under "miniatures") was particularly original. Two of the salespeople who assisted me while trying various fragrances discussed whether the scent was wearable for men or not. The first vehemently denied it and even advised me against testing it, while the second explained to me that he was currently wearing it; it was even one of his favorite fragrances from LUSH.
I am also torn. On one hand, I do not like fragrances that contain jasmine. This has to do, on the one hand, with the scent development of these flowers. I usually perceive a sweet, decaying smell that reminds me a bit of carrion. On the other hand, jasmine is rather a flower associated with femininity: only limitedly suitable for men. While quite a few men's fragrances contain a jasmine component (just think of Cool Water, L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme, Joop HOMME, or Fahrenheit), this is generally in the background and not perceivable in isolation.
However, I became immediately curious when I read that Sikkim Girls, as a unisex scent, also contains tuberose. I find unisex or men's fragrances with tuberose particularly exciting, and some of them are among the best that the fragrance market has to offer (examples of men's fragrances: XPEC Original, Richard James Savile Row, Washington Tremlett Black Tie, Mark Birley Charles Street; examples of unisex fragrances: Histoires de Parfums Tubéreuse 3 Animale, Diptyque 34 Boulevard Saint Germain, L'Artisan Fleur de Liane, ELdO Vierges et Toreros, Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, Serge Lutens Fleurs d'oranger, Serge Lutens Datura Noir, Serge Lutens Fleurs de citronnier, and many more).
Frangipani, on the other hand, is rather rarely found in unisex fragrances (although it is a fragrant plant particularly popular in subtropical countries). Among others, however, it can be found in the Czech & Speake No. 88, which I particularly appreciate (a unisex fragrance with a masculine note). The combination of both flowers in a unisex fragrance is extremely rare; in a men's fragrance, this combination does not exist at all.
Everything about Sikkim Girls actually suggests that this combination of strong flowers is intended more for women's skin, but the scent can indeed be worn by men due to its (also) herbal-green orientation (which is similar to many other newer LUSH fragrances). This applies especially to the top and heart notes; however, the base note, which is very subtle, ultimately shows a dominance of jasmine after several hours that I do not like and makes the scent feel more like a women's affair.
The scent development in detail: Initially, the fragrance actually begins herbal, almost a little medicinal. What sounds off-putting, however, has its own charm. After a few minutes, the floral notes peel away from the chaos, with frangipani being as noticeable with its peachy or gardenia scent as the characteristic, enchanting tuberose scent. Jasmine is not yet present at this point, which makes approaching this fragrance much easier for me and generally makes it wearable for men.
What remains perceptible for longer at the beginning is the herbal sharpness, which cannot be explained by the listed scent notes, is not quite as harmonious, but contributes in its own way to the scent not being as feminine as one might expect. The herbal component is not related to pine or moss, smells almost a little earthy or woody with a slightly mustardy and medicinal addition, which after some time gives way to a metallic accent. Those who are now completely put off can stop reading here. However, those who appreciate LUSH fragrances, especially for their eccentric statement, should finally dare to test it.
Sikkim Girls, however, does not belong to the truly strong LUSH fragrances for me. It is extraordinary without being conspicuous, eccentric without being dandyish, lasting without being intrusive, radiating without being loud.
While the eccentricity speaks in favor of the fragrance and would justify an 80% rating, the floral banality in the base note seems to me to indicate a rather meager 60%. As a compromise, I therefore decide on a 70% rating, which in this case does not characterize an uncomplicated, pleasing mainstream fragrance, but rather expresses the opposing poles that the scent unites within itself, that inner contradiction that was already hinted at before the purchase of the fragrance through the discussion of the two young salespeople: wearable for men and yet not wearable, between flower and herb, between sweetness and bitterness: indecisive and yet excitingly exotic.
Perhaps this is what a journey to Sikkim looks like.