Unexpected and all the more delightful is what Mäurer & Wirtz has now brought to the market.
Will the autumn of 2024 bring the required change in terms of fragrance composition?
Yes, here the house shows foresight and courage, offering something reconciliatory for all those who have not been able to stand sweet scents in recent years.
Bold, honest, and commendable, it is refreshing to name the components of this fragrance version outright.
And leaving nothing to chance regarding the design of the legendary bottle.
I must admit that my anticipation over the announcement of a dark version of the classic
Tabac Original After Shave Lotion was dampened when our highly esteemed Parfumo Yatagan was disappointed by the high concentration of Iso-E-Super.
Well, this molecule can react differently on various skin types and thus alter the scent progression.
It may be that some have a diffuse, almost soft-focus-like association when smelling it.
Others, including myself, experience the scent more clearly, almost crystal clear in the woody area.
Out of curiosity, I opened both the bottle of
Tabac Original After Shave Lotion and the
Tabac Original Black Edition and first sniffed both dosing caps.
While the original smells as usual of aldehydes, woods, and warm amber, I do get a hint of the original scent in this version, but it is significantly lighter and darker-toned, more modern.
For mechanical reasons, there is this time a…
Shake and clap!
The beginning of the scent progression is surprisingly quiet; I can hardly perceive a scent at first, which is probably due to the synthetic nature.
But then the citrus opening slowly reveals itself, very gentle and also with green, herbaceous impressions. I assume that the declared cedar leaf is supposed to smell like this.
What is very pleasant is the initially sparse dosage of pepper, just barely noticeable.
It will take a while before the next stage of the fragrance becomes recognizable.
In general, the scent progression takes its time with all its facets.
More on that later.
The lavender is fresh and again greenish modulated; the molecule Clearwood works excellently here.
No sting, no overpowering, just a soft feeling.
Perhaps it is also this soft feeling of Iso-E-Super that Parfumo Yatagan criticizes.
Understandable if one expects a fragrance with clear contours.
But here I would like to point out that Tabac Original has always been soft. The softness and roundness are among its characteristics.
Therefore, it is only consistent to reach for Iso-E-Super to enable a rounded fragrance experience once again.
And before I know it, the heart of the original scent peeks out.
Yes, the house has meticulously ensured that tradition is incorporated within a contemporary context.
Warm woody, wonderfully ambried, and sprinkled with bright herbal notes, the old, now rejuvenated heart of the classic beats.
More than an hour will pass before the distinctive base takes over.
I call that molecular mastery!
Because suddenly everything becomes crystal clear.
Yes, the positive side of Iso-E-Super.
A strange freshness leads to the final stage.
Peppered, a comfortably dark lounge makes its presence known.
Aspects of leather, dark woods, and a grayish smoke define the zeitgeist of this version.
It is astonishing that everything remains light and airy here.
The successful contrasts of freshness and cozy wood feel invigorating.
I, at least, could smell it for hours and feel comfortable.
Because the impressions of the original merge with the new.
And as Profumo Ergoproxy says?
It comes down to the skillful use of new molecules.
Here I was taught otherwise.
Hats off!
Now to the bottle.
Certainly a milestone.
While the glass initially appears matte black, its optical property changes in backlight. Transparent, gray smoky, and elegant, the material now allows a glimpse inside the amphora.
If that isn't the most successful trick of the house.
An absolute eye-catcher and worthy of a beautiful place at home.
As for the longevity, I can confidently praise the continuous quality of the line. Just as the original aftershave provided long hours of scent, the dark version fits in perfectly here.
The scent will remain detectable for hours.
Although the projection is initially weak, sometimes close to the skin, unexpected scent clouds are generated that can certainly be perceived by those around.
Applied in the early evening, I could still smell the fragrance the next morning.
Subdued, yes, but still present.
And so I would like to summarize the character of the fragrance as follows.
Warm woody, ambried, peppery leathery, and cool smoky.
Coolness, minimalist elegance, passing the baton to the next generation.
Yes, I am convinced that the house has taken the right path.
Should
Tabac Original Black Edition be limited, then hopefully as an attempt to adjust something traditional and thereby gain new followers. Perhaps to compose future works accordingly.
And I am optimistic that the experiment will succeed.
Thank you, Mäurer & Wirtz, this time you got it right!
Top Notes 
Black pepper
Cedar leaf
Citrus notes
Heart Notes 
Clearwood™
Frankincense
Provençal lavender
Base Notes 
Cypriol
ISO-E-Super
Cedarwood
Sandalwood
Axiomatic
Yatagan
Stella73
Duftgroupie
Stulle
Gold
Jacko
Andu
RumSkully
ChrisCacao
