10/05/2024

Axiomatic
70 Reviews
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Axiomatic
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53
The right turn!
Unexpected and all the more pleasing what Mäurer & Wirtz has now brought to the market.
Should the 2024 fall bring the required turnaround in fragrance composition?
Yes, the house has shown the foresight and courage to offer something conciliatory for all those who have had enough of sweet fragrances in recent years.
Courageous, honest and welcome to call the components of this fragrance version by name.
And to leave nothing to chance when it comes to the design of the legendary bottle.
I must confess that my anticipation over the announcement of a dark version of the classic Tabac Original After Shave Lotion was dampened when our very esteemed Parfumo Yatagan was disappointed by the high concentration of Iso-E-Super.
Well, this molecule can react differently with different skin types and change the scent accordingly.
It may be that some people have a diffuse, even soft-focus-like association when smelling it.
But others, and I am one of them, experience the fragrance more clearly, almost crystal clear in the woody range.
For the sake of curiosity, I opened both the bottle of Tabac Original After Shave Lotion and that of Tabac Original Black Edition and smelled both dosage caps.
While the original smells of aldehydes, woods and warm amber as usual, I also get a hint of the original fragrance in this version, but it is much lighter and also darker tinted, more modern.
For mechanical reasons, this time there is a...
Shake and clap!
The beginning of the fragrance is surprisingly quiet, I can hardly detect any scent at first, which is probably due to the synthetics.
But then the citrusy opening slowly emerges, very gently and also with green-tart impressions. I assume that this is how the declared cedar leaf is supposed to smell.
What is very pleasant is the initially sparing dosage of pepper, just barely perceptible.
It will take a while before the next stage of the fragrance becomes recognizable.
In general, the fragrance takes its time with all its facets.
More on this later.
The lavender is modulated fresh and again greenish, the Clearwood molecule works excellently here.
No stinging, no overdrive, simply a soft feeling.
Perhaps it is also this soft feeling of Iso-E-Super that Parfumo Yatagan criticizes.
Understandable, if you expect a fragrance with clear contours.
But here I would like to object that Tabac Original has always been soft. The softness and roundness is one of its characteristics.
It is therefore only logical to reach for Iso-E-Super in order to create another rounded fragrance experience.
And before I know it, the heart of the original fragrance is already peeking out.
Yes, here the house has taken meticulous care to incorporate tradition in a contemporary context.
Warmly woody, wonderfully ambery and with light herbaceous sprinkles, this is how the old, now rejuvenated heart of the classic beats.
More than an hour will pass before the striking base takes over.
That's what I call molecular mastery!
Because suddenly everything becomes crystal clear.
Yes, the positive side of the Iso-E-Super.
A strange freshness leads to the last stage.
Peppered, a cozy dark lounge now announces itself.
Aspects of leather, dark woods and a grayish smoke define the zeitgeist of this version.
It's amazing that everything here remains light and airy.
The successful contrasts of freshness and cozy wood have an invigorating effect.
I, at least, could spend hours smelling it and feeling good.
Because the impressions of the originals merge with the new.
And as Profumo Ergoproxy says?
It depends on the skillful use of new molecules.
Here I was proven wrong.
Hats off.
Now to the bottle.
Definitely a milestone.
If the glass initially appears matt black, the optical properties change when viewed against the light. Transparent, smoky gray and elegant, the material now allows a glimpse inside the amphora.
If that isn't the most successful trick in the house.
An absolute eye-catcher and worthy of a beautiful place at home.
As far as durability is concerned, I can confidently praise the continued quality of the range. While the original After Shave already provided long hours of fragrance, the dark version now joins in perfectly.
The fragrance will linger for hours.
Although the projection is weak at first, sometimes close to the skin, clouds of fragrance are generated quite unexpectedly, which can also be detected by the surroundings.
Applied in the early evening, I could still smell the fragrance the next morning.
Muted, but still present.
And so I would like to summarize the character of the fragrance as follows.
Warm woody, ambery, peppery leathery and cool smoky.
Coolness, minimalist elegance, passing on the baton to the next generation.
Yes, I am convinced that the house has taken the right path.
If Tabac Original Black Edition is limited, then hopefully it will be an attempt to adjust old traditions and win over new fans. Possibly in order to compose later works accordingly.
And I am confident that the experiment will succeed.
Thank you Mäurer & Wirtz, this time you are right!
Should the 2024 fall bring the required turnaround in fragrance composition?
Yes, the house has shown the foresight and courage to offer something conciliatory for all those who have had enough of sweet fragrances in recent years.
Courageous, honest and welcome to call the components of this fragrance version by name.
And to leave nothing to chance when it comes to the design of the legendary bottle.
I must confess that my anticipation over the announcement of a dark version of the classic Tabac Original After Shave Lotion was dampened when our very esteemed Parfumo Yatagan was disappointed by the high concentration of Iso-E-Super.
Well, this molecule can react differently with different skin types and change the scent accordingly.
It may be that some people have a diffuse, even soft-focus-like association when smelling it.
But others, and I am one of them, experience the fragrance more clearly, almost crystal clear in the woody range.
For the sake of curiosity, I opened both the bottle of Tabac Original After Shave Lotion and that of Tabac Original Black Edition and smelled both dosage caps.
While the original smells of aldehydes, woods and warm amber as usual, I also get a hint of the original fragrance in this version, but it is much lighter and also darker tinted, more modern.
For mechanical reasons, this time there is a...
Shake and clap!
The beginning of the fragrance is surprisingly quiet, I can hardly detect any scent at first, which is probably due to the synthetics.
But then the citrusy opening slowly emerges, very gently and also with green-tart impressions. I assume that this is how the declared cedar leaf is supposed to smell.
What is very pleasant is the initially sparing dosage of pepper, just barely perceptible.
It will take a while before the next stage of the fragrance becomes recognizable.
In general, the fragrance takes its time with all its facets.
The lavender is modulated fresh and again greenish, the Clearwood molecule works excellently here.
No stinging, no overdrive, simply a soft feeling.
Perhaps it is also this soft feeling of Iso-E-Super that Parfumo Yatagan criticizes.
Understandable, if you expect a fragrance with clear contours.
But here I would like to object that Tabac Original has always been soft. The softness and roundness is one of its characteristics.
It is therefore only logical to reach for Iso-E-Super in order to create another rounded fragrance experience.
And before I know it, the heart of the original fragrance is already peeking out.
Yes, here the house has taken meticulous care to incorporate tradition in a contemporary context.
Warmly woody, wonderfully ambery and with light herbaceous sprinkles, this is how the old, now rejuvenated heart of the classic beats.
More than an hour will pass before the striking base takes over.
That's what I call molecular mastery!
Because suddenly everything becomes crystal clear.
Yes, the positive side of the Iso-E-Super.
A strange freshness leads to the last stage.
Peppered, a cozy dark lounge now announces itself.
Aspects of leather, dark woods and a grayish smoke define the zeitgeist of this version.
It's amazing that everything here remains light and airy.
The successful contrasts of freshness and cozy wood have an invigorating effect.
I, at least, could spend hours smelling it and feeling good.
Because the impressions of the originals merge with the new.
And as Profumo Ergoproxy says?
It depends on the skillful use of new molecules.
Here I was proven wrong.
Hats off.
Now to the bottle.
Definitely a milestone.
If the glass initially appears matt black, the optical properties change when viewed against the light. Transparent, smoky gray and elegant, the material now allows a glimpse inside the amphora.
If that isn't the most successful trick in the house.
An absolute eye-catcher and worthy of a beautiful place at home.
As far as durability is concerned, I can confidently praise the continued quality of the range. While the original After Shave already provided long hours of fragrance, the dark version now joins in perfectly.
The fragrance will linger for hours.
Although the projection is weak at first, sometimes close to the skin, clouds of fragrance are generated quite unexpectedly, which can also be detected by the surroundings.
Applied in the early evening, I could still smell the fragrance the next morning.
Muted, but still present.
And so I would like to summarize the character of the fragrance as follows.
Warm woody, ambery, peppery leathery and cool smoky.
Coolness, minimalist elegance, passing on the baton to the next generation.
Yes, I am convinced that the house has taken the right path.
If Tabac Original Black Edition is limited, then hopefully it will be an attempt to adjust old traditions and win over new fans. Possibly in order to compose later works accordingly.
And I am confident that the experiment will succeed.
Thank you Mäurer & Wirtz, this time you are right!
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