Top Notes 
Aldehydes
Orange blossom
Frankincense
Heart Notes 
Rose
Spices
Jasmine
Base Notes 
Leather
Tonka bean
Patchouli
Amber
Labdanum
Sandalwood
Immortelle
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47
1986 vs 2019
When Parfum de Peau was launched in 1986, I had just finished my training and somehow also my hometown. I don't want to elaborate on the latter here.
Parfum de Peau made a huge impact and became one of my favorite fragrances for a long time, until my taste in scents changed in the mid-90s and I stopped repurchasing it.
For a few years now, I've been feeling nostalgic for some fragrances from my Sturm-Und-Drang period. And so, Parfum de Peau has found its way back into my collection.
Some time ago, I also received a sample of Peau Intense, released in 2019, in my mailbox, and it was immediately clear that this one would make it into my collection. Well, since Thursday, it's official. I now own Peau Intense alongside the current version of Parfum de Peau.
This morning, I applied both fragrances simultaneously to make a comparison.
Here is my subjective result.
1986 starts off quite soapy (it wasn't quite as pronounced back then) with an extra dose of aldehydes combined with blackcurrant, creating a rather loud and tart opening.
The transition to the heart note happens smoothly and slowly. The lush, never sweet floral accord turns up the volume a bit and pushes the soapy aspect into the background. Somehow, from this stage on, the scent also has a slightly metallic quality for me.
Parfum de Peau drifts rather leisurely into the base. Leather, patchouli, and a (now less pronounced) beaver-animalic note welcome the floral accord and lay it to rest in a non-sweet manner.
Both longevity and sillage are typically high for the time.
In direct comparison, 2019 starts off less soapy, although there are certainly some aldehydes present here as well. Additionally, the opening is less sharp. Frankincense, however, does not appear in the top notes for me.
Like the 1986 version, Peau Intense also glides through the three-part fragrance progression.
The heart note is thematically similar but develops a slight, pleasant sweetness, with the spices unfolding subtly in the background. I cannot detect a metallic tendency.
In the base, the connection to the 86 version is still recognizable, but in this case, it is softer, slightly more sensual, and distinctly more ambered. Moreover, the frankincense comes through subtly for me here. Those who find the original too animalic might find happiness here, as it has almost completely been omitted.
Longevity and sillage are aligned with the original version. Thus, a preference for fragrances with statements and a certain restraint in dosing is required.
Unfortunately, I cannot say which of the two fragrances I prefer.
Let’s hope that the brand always finds enough enthusiasts.....
Parfum de Peau made a huge impact and became one of my favorite fragrances for a long time, until my taste in scents changed in the mid-90s and I stopped repurchasing it.
For a few years now, I've been feeling nostalgic for some fragrances from my Sturm-Und-Drang period. And so, Parfum de Peau has found its way back into my collection.
Some time ago, I also received a sample of Peau Intense, released in 2019, in my mailbox, and it was immediately clear that this one would make it into my collection. Well, since Thursday, it's official. I now own Peau Intense alongside the current version of Parfum de Peau.
This morning, I applied both fragrances simultaneously to make a comparison.
Here is my subjective result.
1986 starts off quite soapy (it wasn't quite as pronounced back then) with an extra dose of aldehydes combined with blackcurrant, creating a rather loud and tart opening.
The transition to the heart note happens smoothly and slowly. The lush, never sweet floral accord turns up the volume a bit and pushes the soapy aspect into the background. Somehow, from this stage on, the scent also has a slightly metallic quality for me.
Parfum de Peau drifts rather leisurely into the base. Leather, patchouli, and a (now less pronounced) beaver-animalic note welcome the floral accord and lay it to rest in a non-sweet manner.
Both longevity and sillage are typically high for the time.
In direct comparison, 2019 starts off less soapy, although there are certainly some aldehydes present here as well. Additionally, the opening is less sharp. Frankincense, however, does not appear in the top notes for me.
Like the 1986 version, Peau Intense also glides through the three-part fragrance progression.
The heart note is thematically similar but develops a slight, pleasant sweetness, with the spices unfolding subtly in the background. I cannot detect a metallic tendency.
In the base, the connection to the 86 version is still recognizable, but in this case, it is softer, slightly more sensual, and distinctly more ambered. Moreover, the frankincense comes through subtly for me here. Those who find the original too animalic might find happiness here, as it has almost completely been omitted.
Longevity and sillage are aligned with the original version. Thus, a preference for fragrances with statements and a certain restraint in dosing is required.
Unfortunately, I cannot say which of the two fragrances I prefer.
Let’s hope that the brand always finds enough enthusiasts.....
Updated on 02/04/2023
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