TL; DR Very juicy blood orange followed by mint and lots of patchouli with a hint of vanilla. This unique scent starts with pure citrus orange but develops into something earthy, sweet, and ultimately quite addictive. The base combines a fresh mint smell with some darker notes of patchouli and cocoa again with a blood orange, a fantastic base.
I was unaware of this version and was surprised to find it today at a local store. I immediately thought it could be a flanker of Ultraviolet Man Eau de Toilette
, a perfume that I have always chased but never bought, and I don’t know why. So, I tried it both on paper and my wrist and was pleasantly surprised. The fragrance belongs to the gourmand family, with dominant nuances of fruity orange, a high dose of earthy patchouli, and smooth vanilla. It’s a nice trio that works well and introduces a fresh flavour of acidity, juiciness, and powerful blood orange notes, both the peel and juice of the fruit. But not the typical juicy orange, on a par with Minute Maid or Uncle Matt’s. It is that sweet but not so sweet and not fizzy of Hesperides that I would normally attribute to a summer fragrance. I would describe the opening as sour, spicy, semi-bitter, and aromatic.
That bitter orange note strongly characterizes the opening and the rest of life. I suppose the name UltraRed comes from the sanguine colour of orange fruit. The impact is amazing, so bright, juicy, and spicy. Indeed, especially in the cloud surrounding me, the scent is further cooled by a semi-aromatic mentholated atmosphere. There is a dark bitterness in the back akin to the aroma of green cardamom seeds. At first, I even thought it was liquorice because it smelled dark and bitter like the viscous fluid of the root, the same output you get from Au Masculin Eau de Toilette
that has this high liquorice pinch, but then it turned into something more like anise; it reminds me of aniseed sponge cake, a childhood sweet that I recently found in pastry shops. Remember that no mint, liquorice, anise, or cardamom are listed. Anyway, it’s a very pleasant impression I had for quite a few seconds, so I assume that one of them, and I swear the anise, is present in the top notes. I can also detect a slight hint of patchouli and cocoa in the background.
I love that opening. It is bright, spicy, and powerful. I immediately pick up the citrus notes. As the composition grows within a few minutes, I get majestic hints of chocolate praline, which blend with emerging sweet and toasted flavours of tonka. The praline is never cloying, but it is well-mannered and never too sweet. It’s a fresh, creamy feeling, which works very well with orange. Over time, the tonka bean and vanilla blend introduced a sweet and caramel-like note.
A mix of bright, warm, and cold notes extends into the base made of warm and rich scents of patchouli, vanilla, and tonka. Perfumers once again create a very soft chocolate accord comprising patchouli and tonka bean. The tonka and vanilla smooth some of the citrus edges towards the dry down, making the fragrance dry and sweet, while the patchouli adds depth and darkness. And vanilla is coming in more but at a slow pace.
It is an exquisite woody blend that is well seasoned with a mix of cold and hot spices and refreshed with citrus, creating the pleasant sensation of summer days with the first bright rays of the sun that tingle and warm our skin. Plus, even though it’s marketed as a summer fragrance, it’s so balanced that you could easily wear it in the spring and fall. Be careful with this perfume, as it can be offensive when you first spray it. I would recommend it for an office scent if you have some time before it settles down and settles down. But after it dries, it’s cool, and most people will enjoy it. I would wear it mainly in spring and fall. Ultrared is also fantastic for evening use but works great during the day as it is sweet, fresh, and pleasant. Sillage and longevity are moderate on my skin, and I have to reapply if I want it to feel until the evening. I see people comparing it to #Ultra Zest, which I don’t know, and therefore, I can neither confirm nor deny. However, as soon as I sprayed it onto the paper strip, my olfactory memory immediately associated it with Zino Eau de Toilette
and then with A*Men
. Maybe that’s just me, but the mix of patchouli with the other notes creates this similar chocolate and caramel vibe in all of those fragrances. Try it if you like the gourmand on par with A*Men or Angel genre. Gourmand sex in a bottle.
I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since May 2022.