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Douro Eau de Portugal 1985

8.1 / 10 93 Ratings
A popular perfume by Penhaligon's for men, released in 1985. The scent is citrusy-spicy. It is being marketed by Puig.
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Main accords

Citrus
Spicy
Fresh
Floral
Green

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
BergamotBergamot LavenderLavender BasilBasil GeraniumGeranium LemonLemon LimeLime Mandarin orangeMandarin orange
Heart Notes Heart Notes
Lily of the valleyLily of the valley NeroliNeroli
Base Notes Base Notes
OakmossOakmoss LabdanumLabdanum SandalwoodSandalwood MuskMusk

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
8.193 Ratings
Longevity
7.176 Ratings
Sillage
6.375 Ratings
Bottle
8.480 Ratings
Value for money
6.919 Ratings
Submitted by Andi136 · last update on 11/12/2024.
Source-backed & verified
Interesting Facts
The fragrance is part of the British Tales collection.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
Lords by Penhaligon's
Lords
Moustache (Eau de Toilette) by Rochas
Moustache Eau de Toilette
Eau de Courrèges (2012) by Courrèges
Eau de Courrèges (2012)
Eau Pour Homme (1984) (Eau de Toilette) by Giorgio Armani
Eau Pour Homme (1984) Eau de Toilette
Pour Monsieur (Eau de Toilette) / A Gentleman's Cologne / For Men by Chanel
Pour Monsieur Eau de Toilette
LP No.9 for Men by Penhaligon's
LP No.9 for Men

Reviews

10 in-depth fragrance descriptions
Miaw2

339 Reviews
Miaw2
Miaw2
Helpful Review 3  
Douro by Penhaligon's
Douro opens with a huge lemon/lime note that recalls me of cleaning product.

The first notes disappears quickly, then joins the composition a nice lavender note, followed by a woody base with hints of spices and resins.

There is a powdery smell, actually a barbershop smell, which i find very pleasant. At the drydown Douro reminds me of Sartorial from the same house.

Douro is more a skin scent, smells refined for sure.

Sillage and projection are good. Lasting power is around 4/5 hours.
0 Comments
FvSpee

323 Reviews
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FvSpee
FvSpee
Top Review 37  
Neukölln 6: The British-Portuguese Friendship Perfume
Douro is not named after Duro (by Nasomatto), the scent for tough men, which is derived from the Italian and Spanish word for "hard," but after a river in the north of the Iberian Peninsula. In Spanish, it is called Duero and in Portuguese Douro, and it forms the border between the two countries along part of its course. In the Middle Ages, it marked the boundary for centuries (along almost its entire length) between the Islamic Al-Andalus in the south and the Christian kingdoms, especially Asturias, in the north.

Douro is an Eau de Portugal (as it says on the label), and this is, as a fellow Parfumo explained to me, a special form of Eau de Cologne with a strong proportion of oranges (or mandarins). Portugal by 4711 is also one of these, and many English fragrance companies offer or have offered such Eaux. The fact that Penhaligons decided to rename "Lords" to "Douro" during the rebranding is very fitting and subtle in this respect.

Traditionally, much connects England and Portugal, such as English military aid to Portugal against Napoleon and Portuguese military aid to England against Kaiser Wilhelm. But probably nothing connects the two nations as much as Port wine, a kind of national drink of the English, which is cellared in Portugal and whose grapes may only be grown in the upper Douro Valley, the wine region Alto Douro (reportedly the oldest concretely defined and named wine region in the world). Allegedly, English Port wine traditions date back to the 14th century, when the name Port wine and the wine region did not even exist yet.

In another sense, the name (and the designation as Eau de Portugal) may not be entirely appropriate. For this very beautiful scent has relatively little to do with an orange-heavy cologne, that is, a classic "EdPo." Thus, it stands a bit on the fringes of this series, but it certainly has its place within it.

Douro starts - in this respect quite typical of colognes - with a fine citrus blend, in which the mandarin is not so dominant. That it is listed here equally alongside lime, lemon, and bergamot is plausible; we have a nice general citrus in the best sense of the word, a blend, so to speak. However, much more dominant, in my view, especially at the beginning, is the lavender, so to speak the Great Bear in the starry sky over the Douro.

As this lavender-citrus blend is also nicely spiced with a few spicy notes, it creates the image of a light gray, finely fresh, somewhat understated finesse that feels much more British than Iberian. This is more of a gentleman on southern travels than a native Lusitanian.

With the continued presence of lavender, the scent then becomes soft, almost meltingly soft, blooming-floral. This is not dandyish or effeminate, but it has something flattering and delicate, as if the gentleman forgets his stiff upper lip for a while and discovers his soft spot in the beauty of southern lands. During this phase, the scent also becomes a bit more orangey, so I find lily of the valley and neroli absolutely plausible for this phase (we are here around minute 30 to 60).

After that, a very close, lingering, beautiful, noble, finely fresh finish begins, which lasts for several hours and which I no longer perceive as citrusy. In it, a decent dose of oak moss (or oak moss absolute or whatever is used today) mixes with wood (I would have suspected cedar rather than sandalwood) and the lavender that seeps from the top note into the base.

Douro is generous in its dosage, like a cologne, and can also be splashed on. If applied too subtly, it dissipates too quickly and does not unfold its effect.

All in all: This is complexity and refinement that only seems simple and plain, which is why this little water clearly surpasses the boundaries of a classic cologne. To honor this, I was inclined to give 9 points (which would be anything but absurd!), but since the scent, despite all its beauty, does not evoke the feelings of infatuation associated with a 9 for me, it remains somewhere at 8.74.

Still a super scent!

As is Duro as well.
23 Comments
loewenherz

919 Reviews
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loewenherz
loewenherz
Top Review 26  
The Rake
A recurring (and particularly popular) archetype in light English literature is that of a man beyond societal - and moral - conventions. A man who has long since completed his 'Grand Tour' and now lives solitary in a garret at Piccadilly, who engages unreservedly with disreputable women and occasionally dares to appear at Almack's with a loosely tied cravat, despite the disapproving glances of the strict patronesses.

Due to his high birth, he is courted by the ambitious mothers of debutantes - and feared for his lamentable manners and his ruthlessness, capable of compromising even girls of impeccable reputation with his coarseness - and sometimes even bringing innocence to ruin. By the end of the story, the young (or perhaps not so young) heroine will, of course, tame him and take her place in society as a Duchess or Marchioness at his side.

The rake is a man in his mid-thirties or older. He is stately or wiry, but not an outright athlete, usually impeccably dressed thanks to his valet, though not a dandy with a gardenia in his lapel. He is equally skilled with a sword and pistols as he is with card and dice games. There may already be silver threads at his temples, but when necessary, he still drives his high-built phaeton faster than any hot-headed young man.

The rake has a haughty, sometimes fiery disposition, quickly bored by sycophants and immune to flattery. He possesses natural authority, has a clear voice and straightforward speech. And although he is open to earthly pleasures, often indulgent and sometimes a gambler, he is loyal as a friend and always true to his principles. Perhaps he was once deceived in his youth, for romantic sweetness is not his forte.

The rake is also largely impervious to trinkets and baubles. He always knots his cravat in the same way. The valet continually replenishes that one little bottle with the dark blue silk ribbon and the 'Portuguese Water' inside: a touch of hesperidic lightness, a flower or two - but only briefly - and finally a dry soapiness that, despite its Iberian name, is as English as canned beans on toast and slightly too cold bathwater.

Conclusion: the entire soul of Penhaligon's in a bottle. A precious old-school gem among men's fragrances - light-footed yet full of character. And are not the rakes ultimately more pleasant than the groomed fashion fops with their pink silk handkerchiefs at their chests?
6 Comments
LuckyDog

37 Reviews
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LuckyDog
LuckyDog
Top Review 21  
Women in Their Lovers' Sweatshirts
Douro (in English: Duero) is the name of a river that flows through northern Spain and northern Portugal before emptying into the Atlantic at Porto. From the Spanish-Portuguese border to the area around Peso da Régua, the regions surrounding the Douro form the growing area for Port wine.

The river was a fitting name for the fragrance for two reasons. Firstly, the wild rockrose plants used in the scent grow at Quinta da Roêda, a well-known wine-growing area in the Douro Valley, and secondly, along the river are the vines of the Croft wine house, for whose former owner Percy Croft the fragrance was created in 1911. To celebrate the three-hundredth anniversary of the Croft wine house, the fragrance was modernized in 1978.

However, the river was not the original namesake. In 1985, the previously discontinued fragrance was reissued under its original name Lords. It was only after a rebranding in 2008 that it has been known as Douro Eau de Portugal.

The fragrance opens with citrus notes but is softened by bergamot and mandarin, balanced with lavender and geranium, giving it a slightly sweet touch. This results in a fresh yet dry top note that is more pleasing than that of the widely known Blenheim Bouquet. The basil adds a herbaceous-green nuance to the top note, moving it further away from Blenheim Bouquet on the olfactory map and leaning towards English Fern.

The top note shifts from the fresh start to a subtle, light floral note that never lets you doubt that this is a fragrance for men. What initially seemed dry transitions into a slightly powdery scent. The floral hint, attributed to lily of the valley and neroli, is far from the extroverted nature of Hammam Bouquet, and the powderiness is by no means as dominant as in Raquet's Formula.

In the base, musk, oakmoss, and sandalwood unfold. The musk is bright and clean, not animalic. Penhaligon's informs us that Douro's gentle leathery nuance was inspired by the aromatic labdanum plant found in the Douro Valley. If one were to locate the base within Penhaligon's universe, it would lean towards Sartorial.

Douro Eau de Portugal is a deep and intensely aromatic cologne with moderate sillage and good longevity, although it becomes perceptible only close to the skin after a short time. It embodies the qualities that are characteristic of many Penhaligon's fragrances, making it instantly recognizable.

Penhaligon's has posted a video online in which the fragrance is presented as Penhaligon's most serious and formal scent. This seems more accurate to me than the parallel drawn in the video to barbershop fragrances, which are plentiful in London perfumeries (Harris, Trumper, Taylor of Old Bond Street). Douro is a classic fragrance but not an outdated one. Its metallic touch alone sets it apart from the barbershop scents, which I enjoy smelling but rarely wish to wear. Douro, however, leaves no doubt about its wearability. A fragrance that can hold its own in any well-groomed business environment.

I find the image Penhaligon's offers regarding its wearability by women very apt. It would have the sex appeal that women exude in their boyfriend's sweatshirt. An image in which I gladly lose myself.

In conclusion, I must lament that Penhaligon's exclusive importer in Germany is withholding this fragrance from us, just as it has made Hammam Bouquet and Raquet's Formula increasingly hard to access. Douro might not be a bestseller, but it would surely capture a loyal following. Men who remain faithful to a fragrance and women with that certain sex appeal that suggests more than it reveals.
7 Comments
Floyd

584 Reviews
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Floyd
Floyd
Very helpful Review 18  
Camden Market Hippie Shop
Colorfully dyed scarves and tie-dye T-shirts in every imaginable color hang from worn strings along the red brick walls. I escaped the dreadful hustle and bustle of Camden Market through a narrow side alley when a initially biting, somewhat indefinable scent wafts into my nose. I follow the smell and squeeze through the narrow passage between old wooden stalls filled with various fresh citrus fruits and spices (especially basil), which seem to be sweating their sharp freshness in the midday heat.
After a while, I find myself swept through the entrance of a hippie shop that I spotted-perhaps by chance or maybe by scent-amidst the dense stalls. Hanging closely together, like on an endless line of laundry strung up from the ceiling, are huge colorful batik scarves with unique patterns. But it is not the scarves themselves that captivate me; it is their scent. With a good wine, one can recognize its aging by its smell and taste, and it seems to be similar with these scarves. With my nose buried in the fabrics, I let myself drift through the shop with closed eyes, moving straight ahead, scarf by scarf. After dyeing, they have apparently been washed with detergent and partially wrapped in Nag Champa incense sticks and various floral-scented soaps, I believe I can detect dark rose and lavender. A more precise identification of the other flowers and citrus fruits fails due to the omnipresent Nag Champa sticks. Wonderful flashback, I think to myself, and I can't tear my nose away from the scarves for hours. Anyone who had a true hippie friend knows this scent, associates it with youthful exuberance, squatted houses, summers in a VW bus or on the grass of a festival, the moment when you smell their dreadlocks or sleep in their knitted sweater in a tent at night, hopelessly in love, of course. A scent with moderate sillage but astonishing durability - in the clothes, hair, and memory.
After more hours, I believe I perceive some resinous wood slowly diffusing through the gaps in my memory. I must have fallen asleep somewhere in a corner of the shop, probably on an old English sandalwood bench.
When I eventually find myself back on the street at night, the scent still lingers in my clothes. Unconsciously, I whistle an old Motorpsycho song, "I'm still wearing your smell," just like back in the day.
Do I have to be a young hippie again for this scent, I wonder.. Nonsense, I still enjoy the music from back then, I love feeling the memories. The old vintage bottle actually fits perfectly with that. So be it!
7 Comments
More reviews

Statements

15 short views on the fragrance
3
Douro is fresh, aromatic and spicy. An old-school opening with a strong lemon and lavender. It smooths down to a floral and mossy barbershop
0 Comments
1
pastel citrus. mulled wine spice-like. manor houses, country clubs, and lemonade served in crystal glasses. unbelievably good.
0 Comments
49
49
Basil-Splish
Citrus-Splash
In herb-green attire
Spicy-sharp lichens
Pulsing
On wooden discs
Labdanum-soft
Ringing in May...
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49 Comments
30
33
Duoro River
Made from natural organic citrus juice
Flows with herbal-floral & elegant woody notes, Iberian Peninsula
Merges into the classic moss sea
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33 Comments
24
27
Wonderful summer scent
Delightfully fresh hesperides
With bright flowers (lily of the valley)
With a green-mossy base
British, classic & timeless
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27 Comments
18
25
Lordship by the coast
Delicate mossy rocks
Musk clouds in the sky
Citrus juice sprinkles lavender gardens
Joyful neroli blooming
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25 Comments
18
21
Natural lemons & herbs create a refined British blend, elegantly enveloped by classic flowers, woods & mosses.
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21 Comments
17
4
Above all, oak moss, sandalwood, and lily of the valley (very British) are the secret of this melancholic yet striking fragrance.
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4 Comments
6
2
Timeless, masculine, and suitable for any occasion. A herbal mix with a hint of lily of the valley on a bed of moss.
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2 Comments
5
1
A true gentleman's scent, on the same level as Dior Eau Sauvage, just with a British twist.
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1 Comment
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