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English Fern 1910 Eau de Toilette

7.3 / 10 105 Ratings
A perfume by Penhaligon's for women and men, released in 1910. The scent is green-fougèreartig. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Green
Fougère
Fresh
Spicy
Woody

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
LavenderLavender GeraniumGeranium
Heart Notes Heart Notes
CloverClover
Base Notes Base Notes
OakmossOakmoss PatchouliPatchouli SandalwoodSandalwood

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
7.3105 Ratings
Longevity
7.177 Ratings
Sillage
6.675 Ratings
Bottle
8.082 Ratings
Value for money
7.011 Ratings
Submitted by Apicius · last update on 11/19/2024.
Source-backed & verified

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
1445 by Castle Forbes
1445
English Fern (After Shave) by Penhaligon's
English Fern After Shave
Wild Fern (Cologne) by Geo. F. Trumper
Wild Fern Cologne
Beau de Jour (Eau de Parfum) by Tom Ford
Beau de Jour Eau de Parfum
English Fern Cologne by Bronnley
English Fern Cologne
Classic Scent (After Shave) by Claus Porto
Classic Scent After Shave

Reviews

11 in-depth fragrance descriptions
Apicius

1328 Reviews
Apicius
Apicius
Helpful Review 6  
Yes, it hurts!
After the discussions we had about classic Fougère I had a brief test with a few spritzes of English Fern on my wrist.

My impression was that the start was herbaceous, maybe a bit citric and blended with a floral note. It appeared to be relatively friendly and convenient to wear, for the simple reason that something seemed to be missing: the spicy side of what I associate with the classic Fougère accord. The absence of anything reminiscent of aniseed, fennel, absinthe or the like was nice, but also brought up the idea of a certain blandness – something basic missing! Also, I did not get any pictures of cloth and textiles like with other Fougère fragrances. What was definitely being preserved from the original concept was the kind of soapiness that can remind at old-fashioned bathrooms: Victorian bathrooms, and also an almost stinging sharpness – yes, it hurts!

I think I can follow Drseid's presumption now that this cannot be the original. Given the fact that due to regulations and availabilities of raw materials perfume houses continuously change their formulas, hardly any traditional fragrance will be same as 100 years ago anyway. The best we can hope for is that it hasn't lost its original character and style.

Things changed a little during drydown. The longer English Fern was around me the more classic fougère it became. In the end, it came much closer to my personal conception of the classic.

English Fern can be worn today but it is something very special. One must be able to cope with its sharp edge, especially as longevity and sillage are very strong. I keep my opinion that one should not refer to these kind of fragrances as being a pleasure or something beautiful. Instead, English Fern is interesting and also demanding, a definite try before you buy. I still haven't made up my mind if English Fern and the other Fougère classics is something I would like to wear – no easy case at all.
1 Comment
Drseid

828 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
2  
This Can't Be The Original Formula...
English Fern opens with a balmy wintergreen geranium accord that meshes with a fern undertone that at this stage is rather muted with the geranium dominating the scent. As the scent transitions to its early heart the green fern takes the fore, but the wintergreen geranium from the open remains in the background in support with patchouli rising from the base giving the balmy green scent a rugged earthy nature. English Fern pretty much remains linear through its dry-down, with what you smell during the early heart phase being what you smell through the end. Projection is excellent and longevity is average.

English Fern is very odd smelling composition. It is extremely green as you might expect, but the fern is less dominant than the balmy wintergreen geranium medicinal aspect of the scent for most of the development and it is quite unpolished and unbalanced in a very bad way. Obviously for the fragrance to survive since 1910 it must be appealing to someone, but I have to wonder if this is the same formula that Penhaligon's released earlier on, as what I am smelling is very amateurish and not the kind of scent I would expect to be a classic. Regardless of what it used to smell like, it smells pretty bad now and this 2 to 2.5 star out of 5 below average composition is not recommended.
4 Comments
Zionist

24 Reviews
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Zionist
Zionist
Top Review 26  
Quality and Understatement
W. H. Penhaligon founded his house in 1870. English Fern saw the light of day in 1910 and has since stood as a calm, discreet park and country scent of the classic fougère genre, consistently within its offering segment.

If I were to attribute defining character traits to this fragrance creation that distinguish it, they would be "calm, serenity, and discretion."

Over a hundred years later, English Fern is still on the shelves, although its character has not changed, while the times and people have changed enormously in the meantime, and other laws govern everyday life.

Penhaligon's English Fern has thus existed for half an eternity, and yet it has maintained its popularity into the 21st century.

Regarding its market presence, it will certainly continue to be pushed to the sidelines, as financially strong profit-oriented new perfume companies act more aggressively in customer strategy.

In the fragrance world, the latest consumption-psychologically well-thought-out marketing strategies are being pursued, which aim to achieve maximum buyer attention with their precisely conceived new products, thereby ensuring that the investments made through risk minimization meet the targets set by business experts.

Penhaligon's English Fern has not changed in the last 100 years, neither in the beautifully designed cardboard packaging nor in its bottle.

Not to mention the content and ingredients.
Penhaligon, as an established English traditional house, shows inflexibility regarding its time-tested formulations and ingredients and rather evokes a feeling of clearly defined rigidity, reminiscent of the unyielding stubbornness mixed with nationalistic English pride of Margaret Thatcher during the Falklands issue.

The house of Penhaligon relies on proven tradition and has so far signaled a confident insistence on its own tradition and continuity regarding trends in reformulating their fragrances - in this respect, it is likely that in recent years, only due to legal requirements, the oak moss content in English Fern has been modified; otherwise, to my knowledge, we still have the original form of English Fern since 1910.

What a finely balanced fougère fragrance that has made the hearts of ladies and gentlemen beat faster with its elegant English presence for generations.

Unlike many other perfumes of this genre, English Fern completely does without the opening with citrus notes or bergamot.

The top note is characterized by a very typical duet of lavender and geranium in fresh, harmonious completion,
Anyone who has caught a whiff of the fragrance retains it deeply imprinted in their memory, and the recognition value is disproportionately high.

Both components, lavender and geranium, can have their quirks in presentation; here, Penhaligon has perfectly understood how to let each of these difficult personality accentuations in the fragrance presentation shine through the highlighting of each particularity, allowing English Fern to radiate in a wonderfully new symbiotic-sympathetic entirety.

As the fragrance develops, there is an impression that an additional freshness character in the form of mint joins in phases, whose presence in the further interplay never shines through dominance but rather through typical English understatement.

The heart note begins subtly with an additional spice influence and the appearance of clover but remains balanced throughout, thanks to the already harmonious lavender-geranium top note and the well-measured addition of clove, forming a well-thought-out, time-tested continuum of the initiated and ongoing fragrance development.

Oak moss, sandalwood, and patchouli appear later as additional players, giving this characteristic fragrance its appropriately well-tempered base, while only complementing the fragrance in its uniqueness and elegantly guiding it to its epilogue.
For me, the highest English quality work, and that for centuries.
12 Comments
Konsalik

86 Reviews
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Konsalik
Konsalik
Top Review 18  
The Cool, Secret Place
Here and today, the gentleman (somewhat simplistically speaking) has three ways to olfactorily engage with the warm season: The first is the contemporary route through aquatic fragrances, often blended with various fruits. And while there may certainly be competent and quite fine representatives from this category - this is undoubtedly not the most elegant and subtle type of summer perfumes. As a second option, one could mention classic, hesperidic colognes or "Eau de Cologne." With this choice, one not only has the longest possible tradition behind them, dating back at least to the early eighteenth century; moreover, availability and wallet-friendliness are strong arguments: A small Cologne boom within the last five to ten years has flooded the market with many, sometimes very good and modern variations of this ancient fragrance direction - and not a few of the very best are available for comparatively little and minimal money. However, this eternally similar, pleasing refreshing citrus can also become tiresome.

Anyone wanting to bring a bit of excitement (also in the sense of mental tension) to the midday, shimmering streets might also want to sniff around in the timeless fragrance direction of classic, straight Fougères. For me, this is the most distinguished way to refresh the heat-battered mind through the nose. Why? Well, both aquatics and classic colognes evoke very obvious cooling associations in the minds of the wearer and those around them. For example: "It's hot? Just go to the outdoor pool and drink a cold lemonade."
Nice and good. But there is another possibility; less socializing, but consciously solitary: The solitary forest walk, the contemplative afternoon in a shady arbor, the hidden place where coolness has gathered. The place where the gentle summer breeze rustles through the foliage, sending soothing, cooling shivers down the back.

Such a detour into refreshment, refreshment through retreat and secrecy, is, for example, English Fern by Penhaligon's, one of the early Fougères following the debut work of Houbigant. Invigorating, not through obvious, clumsy tropical fruit, but through astringent bitterness and herbaceous, almost minty sharpness. Since ferns are known to have no significant scent of their own, I have often wondered what this primal Fougère actually reminds me of. Most closely, it resembles woodruff - an herb that I only consume with reluctance, but enjoy smelling all the more. In combination with lavender and sandalwood, the noble, ethereal bitterness of the imagined pseudo-woodruff is both intensified and civilized, so that English Fern conjures the image of a lean, older gentleman in me (think Hermann Hesse), who often sets off on long hikes even in the height of summer (in a light linen suit), but never sweats even after hours.

Because he - refuses.
8 Comments
loewenherz

919 Reviews
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loewenherz
loewenherz
Top Review 25  
At the Country Estate North Cothelstone Hall...
...of Lord and Lady Hesketh-Fortescue, besides their youngest son Meredith, are the cousins Priscilla and Gwyneth Molesworth from the neighboring villages of Middle Fritham and Nether Addlethorpe, as well as an uncle of Lady Hesketh-Fortescue, the 79-year-old Jasper Fetherstone, whose estate Thrumpton Castle is currently rented to Lord Molesworth-Houghton, a cousin of Priscilla and Gwyneth Molesworth.

Gwyneth Molesworth had procured a tie - pardon me - a necktie for Lord Hesketh-Fortescue in Nether Addlethorpe, but left it with Lord Molesworth-Houghton at Thrumpton Castle. Lady Hesketh-Fortescue suspects her husband of having spent last weekend with Priscilla Molesworth in Middle Fritham. At the same time, Meredith Hesketh-Fortescue finds on a carriage ride with Jasper Fetherstone from Friddle - uh - Fiddle Mith - Middle Fritham to North Cothelstone Hall the necktie from Nathel - Naddle - excuse me - Nether Addlethorpe.

After a dramatic confrontation between Lady Hesketh-Fortescue and Priscilla Molesworth in North Cothelstone Hall, Gwyneth Molesworth rushes to the two-mile distant South Thoresby to visit her aunts Amelie Hollingworth and Lucinda Satterswaite, who, however, have gone to North Thurston to visit their brother-in-law Thomas Thatcham, who works as a gardener at Thrumpton Castle for Lord Molesworth-Houghton.

Gwyneth Molesworth returns to North Cothelstone Hall, but not via Maddle - Middle Addlethorpe, but rather via North Thurston, Thrumpton Castle, Middle Fritham, and Nether Addlethorpe. There she meets Priscilla Molesworth, who with Lord Molesworth-Houghton is still...

Conclusion: green clover, gathered over gentle hills, smooth and delicate blossoms included. England's altogether old-fashioned charm. Beautiful!
6 Comments
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Statements

15 short views on the fragrance
11 months ago
1
according to my penhaligon’s sale rep, this is set to make a return this year, as well as a few other gems, not revealed to me.
0 Comments
11
1
A lush green summer dream full of lavender and moss.
Sillage? The Empire within the boundaries of 1910.
Longevity? God save the Queen!
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1 Comment
9
7
British Gentlemen pur
Floral and powdery
Fresh green to herbal
Light wood
Extremely pleasant office scent
Unfortunately a bit soft and fleeting
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7 Comments
8
2
Geranium & lavender, minty, anise-like, astringent, softened by powdery-sweet herbs & grounded on moss. Original & recalibrating.
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2 Comments
6
2
Dark green, deep green, moss, damp and lush.
Noble raiders ride through the forest.
They are wild, yet know how to behave.
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2 Comments
6
2
lavender fougère: uncomplicated, down-to-earth, classic, trust-inspiring, fresh, green, likeable, timeless, pleasant, soft: beautiful!
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2 Comments
3 years ago
5
fresh lavender
timelessly classic
wrapped in woods
a true must-have
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0 Comments
5
A fine English fougère classic that rightly has endured the turn of the millennium - it could have smelled like this in 1910. Authentic!
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4
1
Lavender with sage/licorice notes. Very green and sweet-spicy. Feels refreshing, but I don't know when I would want to smell like this.
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1 Comment
4
Most beautiful lavender scent, spicy, clear, cool, combined with subtle clover, warmed by classy woods & moss. Finest "fern forest scent" distant & free!!
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