So damn curious about checking a Tom Ford's cologne, I tried and got a sample of this perfume at the COIN store in Milan. And because I wanted to feel how the fragrance reacted with my chemistry, I blindly sprayed it directly on my skin. It gave me one of those increasingly rare love-at-first-sniff experiences the first time I smelled it. Well, the first impression made me imagine Christopher Marlowe's play "The Tragical History of Life and Death of Doctor Faustus." After having made an invocation in his study, the devil Mephistopheles appears to Faustus with whom he stipulates a pact: Faustus will have the knowledge and services of the servant of Lucifer for twenty-four years, after which Lucifer will have his soul. He performs minor acts of low stature. Throughout the work, two angels continually advise Faustus, one good and one evil, symbolizing the two sides of human nature. Similarly, two are the protagonists of this perfume, the oud, and the castoreum, as are the good and the evil angels who flank Dr. Faustus. The other notes are playing in the background as supporting actors.
Oud Wood Intense is primarily a kind of woody animal leather fragrance in which wood and animal blend harmoniously. I researched, and some notes are not mentioned here, like ginger, nutmeg, vetiver, and oakmoss. The aroma of angelica root is quite strong, so perfumers typically use it in small quantities as a complex fragrance component. Angelica displays notes of earth, musk, celery, pepper, aromatic herbs, and just a hint of warm citrus. It is an ideal component for anchoring bright and citrus fragrances, as it provides an earthy core. Angelica root is rustic and provides a base for fragrances that is equivalent to walking barefoot on grass.
The opening combines spicy and sweet notes with angelica roots atop the fresh blonde cypress wood and brings oud to the fore from that upper chord. I can't explain why I like it so much, and I don't expect everyone to share my opinion on this fragrance. Both lush and fiery, it greets me with ginger and nutmeg, sending a wave of fresh spiciness to the senses. There's a hint of pepper and bitterness from the juniper berries, which adds to the already quite spicy opening. The verdant quality of the juniper goes well with the cypress wood. The top notes come together for sweet and fresh energy, almost citrusy, but always with a slightly bitter and verdant touch. Oud Wood Intense is instantly smoky, almost as if the woods have been set ablaze and burning with soft, black ashes, which is incredibly elegant. It creates a crisp and tense atmosphere that immediately awakens the senses with its powerful combination.
Hence, the opening is a dark oud wood with subtle spice, leafy character, and a charcoal dust aroma. This melange evolves into a dark, dry oudish skin that remains present in one form or another throughout. The oud is subtle, discreet, and wrapped in birch tar, which creates a smoky, leathery background. Then we reach the growling and fleshy heart. It is the smokiest and textured oud ever. Oud Wood Intense captures the oud's rougher edges using vetiver and oakmoss, showcasing some harder parts of the oud. The leathery accord is also very strong, has a soft ink-like vibe, and increases the fragrance projection, but it's all well balanced. The combination of oud and leather is strong, but it is pleasant, dry, dark, and pretentious.
The base doesn't stop, and it's a huge castoreum bullet. It creates a chord full of animalic depth, which probably won't be to everyone's taste. A clean, woody base of sandalwood and incense builds on the smokiness of the fragrance. Castoreum promotes a kind of "dry skin" smell that more or less characterizes my experience of the whole fragrance. It gives a wonderfully animal dimension that adds weight and dark presence. I like it very much. I love the raw oud with its medicinal smell, here combined with ash, and the patchouli on the finish softens it just enough. Patchouli adds sharpness, while mahogany-style woods bring a dark toasty richness. It's a nice contrast, and I feel like this quality lends a harsher feel to Oud wood's softness.
Oud Wood Intense is animalic and pungent, but the oud itself is smooth. Instead of the oud being the animalic and light-hearted part of the perfume, castoreum is, with its musky aroma, for an overall rich and tantalizing blend that everyone around you won't stop thinking about for hours. Soft oud combined with animal scents and an explosion of wood. Black rubbery, woody, smoky, and great petroleum smell. From time to time, I perceive the castoreum's animalic note, which reminds me of vintage Antaeus from the 80s, exactly the atmosphere I had when I was wearing it. I've always liked Antaeus, so the transition to this wasn't too difficult, they are slightly similar in that they share skin and castoreum, but deep oud wood is a deeper dark variation.
Bottom line, it's a good scent for cold, nocturnal climates; I enjoyed wearing it the other night for a party and got tons of compliments. Try it before you buy; it's not meant for the crowd. I tested a sample extensively, and it stood out for both uniqueness and compliments! It's bad, it's dirty, most likely not everyone will like it, but that's the kind of thing we all want to find in a more niche home.
This review is based on a decant I have owned since February 2021.
-Elysium
Cypress
Oud
Angelica root
BertolucciK
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