The name "Blooming Oud" gives an idea of the smell because there is no heavy, no smoke, no animals, and slight earthiness, but a smooth, pure, soft, and clean sensation of floating medicinal and sweet oud wood as if an ancient piece of aged lumber was in there. Only oud wood, wood chips scattered here and there, no opulent resin or sap. A little conservative, this oud aroma is light and subtle, but the quality and purity of intention are unmistakable. Supporting it are flowers, woods, amber, and white musk. All these aromas reinforce a very light silver oud and a calm wood aroma. Suppose you are looking for a big Far Eastern oud or a bold perfume. In that case, this is not for you since it is an accessible oud fragrance for those who don't particularly like the animalistic variety of the ingredients. This fragrance expertly blends cold spices with earthy and herbal tones of leaves and woods, a hint of musk and a bunch of flowers, while agarwood is constantly present in the whole, always in the background, to provide a touch of mystery.
Blooming Oud announces itself with a sparkling explosion of bergamot, all too sour and spicy, with influences of lemon, bitter orange and perhaps other citrus fruits. It blends so well with the balsamic green cardamom, which is overdosed and exudes vivid and natural, like a handful of freshly crushed pods releasing their pungent aroma. Its citrus, dark, aromatic opening maintains greenish and purple-lavender tones. Grassy and dry like hay is the style of lavender, not too floral, blue, soapy, or barbershop-like. The bluish flower pops up early and remains solid until the end.
Powdery vibrations coming from the iris flowers, courtesy of the alpha-isomethyl ionone, here more dusty and musky than Memo with the well-known iris reflections announce the entry into the heart. At this point, lavender and cardamom contrast in a lovely and delightful way, with a fresh and fragrant result. In my first impression, I wrote that the musky nuances in the background reminded me of the earthy and animalistic facets of
For Him Eau de Toilette, and I believe this impression is due to the cistus flower, with its deep, diffusive, musky, sweet balsamic scent, with a dry flavour, warm, earthy, herbaceous undertone. A touch of cypriol, also known as nagarmotha, adds some woodiness and earthiness with a hint of spice.
As it gets closer to the bottom, the scent takes a turn and becomes even more woody and musky. A big spoonful of earthy, slightly nutty patchouli and sun-dried vetiver adds warmth and soft musk. I love the way oud, woods, and musks interact with each other. A hint of vanilla and musk finishes the base with their sweet and warm qualities. The next day, on the skin, it is almost a memory, but on the paper strip, there is still a residue of aromatic and balsamic woodiness that gives off aromatic scents of cardamom. You have to be a fan of green cardamom to fully appreciate this fragrance, as the cold spice is always there. In hindsight, "Blooming Cardamon" would have been more appropriate. The Oud here is like the white veil that wraps the wedding confetti: light, transparent, and impalpable.
As far as similarities with
Oud Wood Eau de Parfum go, Blooming Oud is totally in its own right but can be said to be inspired by Oud Wood, not mirrored but imitated. Soft, smoky, leathery, spicy and quite relaxing. Blooming Oud is creamier and earthier and has touches of iris throughout life. At the same time, Oud Wood retains its peppery and slightly medicinal character from opening to closing with a more vital oud note and dark woodiness. I don't think these fragrances have a similar personality, despite having some assonant notes here and there. Word of advice: don't blindly buy Blooming Oud as a replacement for Tom Ford Oud Wood. It might surprise you how different they are, even though both are fantastic.
It is pretty formal, with a good office scent with a Middle Eastern whiff. This is not a beast-mode fragrance but the weakest of the Alberto Morillas Oud collection. Longevity is decent on my skin, over half a day, but it becomes skin-tight after a few hours. Spring and autumn are the ideal seasons to wear and enjoy during the days and afternoons. Blooming Oud is totally its own. Soft, smoky, leathery, spicy and quite relaxing. It's pretty formal with a Middle Eastern touch.
I reserve
Memorable Oud for evening and night events. I often go against the grain and appreciate this perfume, which is a little too underestimated by influencers and YouTubers. It is non-linear, so one should check the whole evolution on the warm skin instead of giving up after the initial blast on the paper strip.
I'm basing my sensations on a bottle I've owned since September 2023 (BC 32160)
-Elysium
Hermesh
Elysium
