Collection Parisienne

Pas Ce Soir 2023 Extrait

NicheOnly
18.07.2023 - 12:09 PM
4
Helpful Review
5
Pricing
8
Bottle
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent

Am I being tricked? Is this designer?

Original Pas Ce Soir Eau de Parfum is undoubtedly a feminine fragrance that gives off accords of sweet, floral, and fruity. When BDK released Gris Charnel Extrait last year, I'm sure a lot of people were thinking where that fragrance would steer given the original's feminine lean. I would've bet against BDK's ability to take the original Pas ce Soir and turn it into a unisex product.

While Pas Ce Soir Extrait doesn't fully accomplish a unisex profile, it gets close enough to the point where men who are comfortable wearing scents like Ouverture, and Gris Charnel Eau de Parfum might give it consideration.

On my skin, the Extrait smells very simple. From the very first moment, the accord that I got was pear. I had previously seen the notes (and a couple reviews on top), but was slightly caught off by the prominence of this accord. After having given the scent a few moments, I still mostly notice the pear and have to go looking for the other accords. Yes, there is a mild chocolatey cacao flank at the top.

The biggest discrepancy between the Extrait and the original stems from the accords. While the original opens with prominent floral accords, I never notice them here. The original also has a noticeable blast of sweetness right off the top which is not mirrored with the Extrait. A miniscule difference is visible in the base through a slightly smoky bonfire-like accord. Core drydown has prominent cashmeran, providing a smooth final transition for what is already a very smoothly blended fragrance.

My initial performance impressions are that it seems a bit lackluster, yet this is off an in-doors test. Revised ratings may be needed. After initially posting the review, I took off a point in both performance and sillage. Extrait didn't open as nuclear and in the drydown it doesn't seem as potent either (albeit the original really isn't too).

To close, I want to emphasize the simplicity of this profile. While it doesn't take away from the high-quality blending, the scent may feel like it doesn't accomplish much. Within niche perfumery, pear is not a note that you see much of, yet I would not be shocked if people smelled this & thought it was a well-blended Kayali fragrance or a scent in the family of "La Belle" from JPG. Pas Ce Soir Extrait feels like a scent where the niche house pulls the tail of the niche hobbyist by tricking them into thinking this is the best thing since sliced bread. I just can't figure out if it really is, or is this chocolatey pear scent just a reimagination of something else already out there.
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