07/18/2023

NicheOnly
85 Reviews

NicheOnly
Helpful Review
4
Am I being tricked? Is this designer?
Original Pas Ce Soir Eau de Parfum is undoubtedly a feminine fragrance that gives off accords of sweet, floral, and fruity. When BDK released Gris Charnel Extrait last year, I'm sure a lot of people were thinking where that fragrance would steer given the original's feminine lean. I would've bet against BDK's ability to take the original Pas ce Soir and turn it into a unisex product.
While Pas Ce Soir Extrait doesn't fully accomplish a unisex profile, it gets close enough to the point where men who are comfortable wearing scents like "Ouverture | XerJoff", and Gris Charnel Eau de Parfum might give it consideration.
On my skin, the Extrait smells very simple. From the very first moment, the accord that I got was pear. I had previously seen the notes (and a couple reviews on top), but was slightly caught off by the prominence of this accord. After having given the scent a few moments, I still mostly notice the pear and have to go looking for the other accords. Yes, there is a mild chocolatey cacao flank at the top.
The biggest discrepancy between the Extrait and the original stems from the accords. While the original opens with prominent floral accords, I never notice them here. The original also has a noticeable blast of sweetness right off the top which is not mirrored with the Extrait. A miniscule difference is visible in the base through a slightly smoky bonfire-like accord. Core drydown has prominent cashmeran, providing a smooth final transition for what is already a very smoothly blended fragrance.
My initial performance impressions are that it seems a bit lackluster, yet this is off an in-doors test. Revised ratings may be needed. After initially posting the review, I took off a point in both performance and sillage. Extrait didn't open as nuclear and in the drydown it doesn't seem as potent either (albeit the original really isn't too).
To close, I want to emphasize the simplicity of this profile. While it doesn't take away from the high-quality blending, the scent may feel like it doesn't accomplish much. Within niche perfumery, pear is not a note that you see much of, yet I would not be shocked if people smelled this & thought it was a well-blended Kayali fragrance or a scent in the family of "La Belle" from JPG. Pas Ce Soir Extrait feels like a scent where the niche house pulls the tail of the niche hobbyist by tricking them into thinking this is the best thing since sliced bread. I just can't figure out if it really is, or is this chocolatey pear scent just a reimagination of something else already out there.
While Pas Ce Soir Extrait doesn't fully accomplish a unisex profile, it gets close enough to the point where men who are comfortable wearing scents like "Ouverture | XerJoff", and Gris Charnel Eau de Parfum might give it consideration.
On my skin, the Extrait smells very simple. From the very first moment, the accord that I got was pear. I had previously seen the notes (and a couple reviews on top), but was slightly caught off by the prominence of this accord. After having given the scent a few moments, I still mostly notice the pear and have to go looking for the other accords. Yes, there is a mild chocolatey cacao flank at the top.
The biggest discrepancy between the Extrait and the original stems from the accords. While the original opens with prominent floral accords, I never notice them here. The original also has a noticeable blast of sweetness right off the top which is not mirrored with the Extrait. A miniscule difference is visible in the base through a slightly smoky bonfire-like accord. Core drydown has prominent cashmeran, providing a smooth final transition for what is already a very smoothly blended fragrance.
My initial performance impressions are that it seems a bit lackluster, yet this is off an in-doors test. Revised ratings may be needed. After initially posting the review, I took off a point in both performance and sillage. Extrait didn't open as nuclear and in the drydown it doesn't seem as potent either (albeit the original really isn't too).
To close, I want to emphasize the simplicity of this profile. While it doesn't take away from the high-quality blending, the scent may feel like it doesn't accomplish much. Within niche perfumery, pear is not a note that you see much of, yet I would not be shocked if people smelled this & thought it was a well-blended Kayali fragrance or a scent in the family of "La Belle" from JPG. Pas Ce Soir Extrait feels like a scent where the niche house pulls the tail of the niche hobbyist by tricking them into thinking this is the best thing since sliced bread. I just can't figure out if it really is, or is this chocolatey pear scent just a reimagination of something else already out there.