This is the first Dries van Noten fragrance that has landed under my nose from the Discovery Set and, in hindsight, it is the best from the Malaquais Set. There was already a fragrance under the Frederic Malle label that belongs to the Belgian designer, but I am not familiar with it, and with the growing enthusiasm of the masses for fragrances, it is hardly surprising that a member of the "Antwerp Six" is now adding his own fragrance line to his portfolio.
The fragrances I was able to test were all of a decent level; none stood out unpleasantly or disappointed across the board. Each had its own personal signature, but did not shy away from sometimes very dominant notes. The fact that I am now writing a review of this fragrance is simply in the DNA of the scent. It came closest to my wishes and recommended itself for more, as I have been searching for this type of fragrance for some time now.
While
Voodoo Chile and
Cannabis Patchouli tended more towards the woody direction and were very green, rough, and earthy,
Fleur du Mal and
Soie Malaquais leaned more towards the sweet side, ranging from floral-sweet to fruity-sweet. The outlier was "Rock the Myrrh | Dries Van Noten," which brought a bit more fascination with its differing DNA, moving between oriental sweetness and soft leather.
At the forefront, the combination of benzoin, myrrh, and suede was chosen to transport the wearer into an oriental trance. A noticeable yet fine smoke moves somewhere in the room, swirling above the scene and waiting for its cue. The almost resinous benzoin sneaks in, reinforcing the Arabic impression and tending between sticky sweetness and dry resin. There is a wave-like movement in the interplay. The second main actor is the suede, which comes neither sharp nor dark. More like the worn leather of a couch or even more like chemically treated faux leather, reminiscent of cheap leather pants. This note emerges almost plush and cuddly, happily melding with the aromatic oils of the previously mentioned notes.
Certain traits of other notes seem to assist the interplay somewhat. In the background, one can occasionally catch glimpses of resinous cypress with a hint of greenness flashing through. Spicy pepper gently underscores the leather and invites daydreaming. Patchouli entwines the myrrh, giving it a warming earthiness to counterbalance the sweetness.
Everything feels quite fragrant, ethereal, almost like the market hustle in a desert city on a humid day. Creamy-leathery and earthy, lightly smoky with a contrast of sweetness. Between oriental and almost gourmand influences. Sweet smoke, that is something nice.
The performance is also quite good on my skin. For the first two hours, the concoction radiates well and presents the impression of sweet smoke to its surroundings. Over time, it comes a bit closer to the skin and lasts at least eight to ten hours to prove its quality and craftsmanship.