Aglianico

Do you like tea?

Summer sweeps across the land, the colors of the map become less intense, Nordic summer drought, white-light yellow hope, merged with heat. In the offices, the gentlemen have sweat stains under their armpits. Perhaps it’s air-conditioned. Then after work, the wall of heat.

For this time, for these hours, Imagination is particularly suitable. Fantasy, imagination. The idea of something more beautiful. The freshness of imagined hope fulfilled.

Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud continues in the wake of demanding pleasantness. That pleasantness which, after the unblinding of a blind tasting, is labeled and assessed as "mainstream" and "clearly too expensive for that."

LV has a clear program. Building a fragrance portfolio with sufficient distinction and coverage of important areas/genres. Which references (not to be confused with fragrance twins!) inspired it may not be 100% assignable, but I could imagine something like: Orage - Terre d'Hermès, Afternoon Swim - Mandarino di Amalfi, Ombre Nomade - "yet another Oud," etc. And now Imagination. For me, primarily a tea scent. Not similar to, but in the wake of Gucci p. H. II. Perhaps that relatively less sweet fragrance is indeed the aforementioned reference.

In the first minutes, I perceive the slightly dusty, aromatic, smoothed cinnamon the most, then it quiets down, which I find good. In the opening, Hesperides from the lab and perhaps nature shake hands, refreshing, pleasing, without leaving the familiar terrain. And everywhere tea. I don't smell Nishane tea. A little reminiscent of Assam of India (Berdoues), but just a bit. For me, so far the best (black) tea scent, even though I'm not very familiar with this genre.

Compared to Afternoon Swim (which does not smell similar and which I certainly like very much), Imagination has the advantage of being more of an all-rounder, less of a pure beautiful season scent. Compared to the meteorite from the same house, Imagination does not drown in a soapy-clean musk bath. Serious, but mainstream, yes. Pleasant, fresh, understated, rounded, no longer green behind the ears, but without age-related wild growth in the shell. For the office, for just because, for smelling good, not necessarily for the heart.

I find the longevity surprisingly good. Today: 28 degrees indoor temperature, six hours: still perceptible. Sillage: discreet to average, at least that’s what others say. There are deductions fragrance-wise for the initially too dominant, albeit still background cinnamon. Otherwise, exactly what I had hoped for: one for everyday use that I like and is uncomplicated. Summer will reach into autumn.

About two years ago, I smelled MFK's "Oud" for the first time: on a scent strip, in downtown Hamburg, as one of many tests. I stored it away as "nice and worth a re-test," and our paths parted. Some time ago, a now inactive Parfumo member, who entertained our community for several years with mostly very humorous comments (reviews), wrote what I believe was his last comment on this very fragrance. There had been a bereavement, and "Oud," as I recall, offered him a bit of comfort, as much as that is possible. Since then, I have been searching for this scent and now own a remaining bottle (thanks to Talux).

My "backstory" with this fragrance is thus a bit tinged with melancholy, and my current situation is as well, as is the country in general. It is currently raining, as if to underscore this. And just like that, this scent warms and comforts me, much like it did for that Parfumo member, whom I honestly miss.

"Oud" is a warm scent, woody, interwoven with non-sharp saffron threads, making it spicy and slightly piquant. Somewhere, there is a linear sweetness that sometimes bothers me, but at other times seems perfectly dosed. Atlas cedarwood theoretically has this quality, warm and rich, slightly sweet. Nevertheless, I think there is a bit of vanillin hidden here, as is the case in most other fragrances. So it is not a sharp wood, but a soft one. I could have imagined a bit of pepper and woody ginger for a refreshing touch, but even as it is, it is good.

Oud hides in the overall picture, if it is indeed Oud - it is probably an accord, a reproduction, one of the consciously milder kind, without fecality, without a medicinal impression. Gentle and soft, with a fatherly, protective, comforting nature. The perfect scent for rainy autumn days when storms and hail swirl outside, and it is warm inside, and one gazes out at the hustle and bustle and the darkness.

A bit of warming silence, a bit of sadness, restraint; it does not hit you in the face. Also, in terms of longevity, it is rather atypical for the darker ones from MFK, for which I am very grateful. Essentially a southern scent, yet it fits just as well in the cold of the north. I will gladly wear it on special occasions. For everyday wear, it is too precious to me.

So here it is: The first (non-flanker) men’s fragrance by Christine Nagel as the house perfumer at Hermès. The expectations were - are, and will remain - high. Terre d'Hermès sends its regards. There are fewer tasks more challenging than stepping into Jean-Claude Ellena's footsteps.

Given the forecast that numerous comments on H24 will surely pour in on Parfumo in the coming days, I will keep my following remarks brief and only touch on selected aspects.

Yes, as announced, it is indeed a rather transparent green fragrance that creates a fresh impression without citrus. A light, increasingly gentle scent, fleeting, quiet, not intrusive. For those who fear sage, let me assure you: nothing here smells harsh. Yes, this particular sage is distinctly noticeable and, in my opinion, softens the fragrance and makes it “not completely unsweet,” even though the scent has absolutely nothing to do with sweetness or sugary sweetness. Sage fragrances give me this “not completely unsweet” impression (chamomile scents, by the way, do so in a rather peculiar way as well).

My scent impression differs significantly between “tested on paper” and “tested on skin,” although this rarely happens to me. On paper, the individual components are more clearly outlined, but in the first seconds, there is also a strange Haribo-Colorado-white-pineapple impression that quickly dissipates (thankfully) and makes way for a “modern green” without any attachment to traditionalism. Green, but not brittle. Herbaceous, but not very herbaceous. Vegetation, but no forest. It reminds me a bit of the smell of greens from cut flowers after they have been in the vase for a while - but without any rot! In fact, I soon also get the promised ironing steam association, although I would find the attribute “metallic” exaggerated. More “fluffy in a non-musk way,” and that in a masculine way.

The further development is quite linear, the scent remaining, as mentioned, always quiet, discreet, serious. H24: one for 24/7.

H24 takes on a heavy legacy and probably does not represent another milestone. Nevertheless, it seems to me even more wearable than the “Terre,” as its high Iso-E-Super content sometimes annoys me a bit after just a few sprays.

So: not a work of art, but a wearable scent for every day, somewhat “younger” than “Terre,” but far from a synthetic appeal to the middle of the mainstream with quickly circulating interchangeable goods. Worth a test!

++++++

Addendum 5.3.:

After wearing it several times, a few additions: everyday addiction potential. "Unique." Wonderfully unobtrusive. The fruitiness (which may stem from the interplay of herbal sage and floral daffodil) now leans more towards green banana peel combined with the aforementioned overripe banana flesh without sweetness (yes, paradoxical). Sounds stranger than it (does) smell. A wonderful fragrance. Similar to the Bottega Veneta scents mainstream, without being boring/cheap/copying. Not a "crowdpleaser," even though it would be nice if the "crowd" would wear it. The year begins olfactorily well.

Because everyone needs a hobby, I sat down at the kitchen table today and started to recreate the beautiful Orage by Louis Vuitton. You know, what you do during lockdown. I must preface this by saying that I am an absolute novice when it comes to fragrance materials, let alone the art of perfumery. But inspired by Heinsson's blog, I wanted to at least give it a try and approach a fragrance I greatly appreciate in a "different" way, especially my favorite topic: the reduced significance of fragrance pyramids. (Teaser: Today, I got "hit in the bow" here).

To give away the result: Even a blind chicken finds a grain now and then.

After two hours, the fragrance was finished (14% concentration), relatively strictly oriented towards the fragrance pyramid provided here, and balanced between natural and synthetic materials, if one disregards Hedione as a "filler." "No budget limitations," as a certain YouTuber would say (the result, however, cost under 2 euros per 10 ml). Real ambrette (albeit supplemented with - significantly - more synthetic musk), iris (though X germanica, a bit cheaper), vetiver, but also Clearwood (similar to patchouli). Bergamot, of course. And a bit of filler material and accentuation.

As I said, I am a layman and cannot actually recreate Orage (it would be very nice due to the price) - however, the result surprises me, as it at least clearly heads in that direction and manages with 12 ingredients. The indirect "proof" that the fragrance pyramid provided here is not just pure marketing from LV, but represents essential components truthfully, regardless of whether it is synthetically recreated or natural. The rest is then a bit of reading up on sensible concentrations and proportions, as there is plenty of information online.

Insights from my recreation: Quite a lot of clean patchouli, little vetiver (which would otherwise be too dominant), a relatively high proportion of a musk accord for the fluffiness/dustiness of Orage, a lot of bergamot (as indicated here). Darkness from patchouli-like and vetiver elements, as well as a kind of mustiness that I actually like here. I hope that real ambrette was used, as it is a wonderful musky raw material.

Deviations from my variant: The real Orage is much drier, more durable, more voluminous, but also more linear, except for the bergamot top note. My "variant" is fresher, less deep, and a bit warmer. And of course, less harmonious :-).

So much for the scent and the components.

The longevity and sillage are, in comparison to other men's fragrances - in my opinion, pleasantly - average. After the first wear 1-2 years ago, I thought the dustiness/mustiness would deter me from this fragrance in the long run, but experience teaches wisdom. In the meantime, I appreciate Orage precisely for that. A dry, serious, masculine fragrance that seems to be made for 30+/40+ (of course, anyone can wear what they like). Green, initially fresh, then increasingly dry, but without any scratchiness, somewhat woody. I could imagine that the briefing to Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud went something like: "Mix us a Terre d'Hermès that is still distinctive. Vetiver, but not too much, as not everyone likes that. Patchouli, we may not be Chanel, but we would like to be. Not too metallic, rocky, or strict. No sweetness. Wearable in the office, on a private jet, in the chalet, and when picking up the little one from daycare. Can you manage that?"

Yes, Mr. Cavallier-Belletrud managed it. Very well, indeed. Worth a test.

Results of a non-representative street survey that did not take place:

“I find it quite generic (didn't know the word until yesterday, but I saw it on Google). It's just one of those Blue ones, you know, like stupid Chanel, but not too Chanel-like, but also not as bad as Y and stuff. You can spray it on, so it actually smells better than a disinfectant, has even 78 rotations... but, I don’t really know.” (Smells on wrist and furrows brow) “No, I think there’s something better out there. But as I said, you can do it, it's pretty cheap.”

“They're really copying a lot, but this time in silver! It does look a bit like L'Homme, the one from Yves Saint Laurent, I mean the bottle, the name too. And then the blue ribbed body under the cap: Chanel says hello. I don’t find it creative, but it does look appealing.” (Sprays the scent on the back of his hand) “Sooooo, let’s go.” (Takes a deep sniff) “Whoa!” (Pause) “Yeah, hmm, it’s a bit like buying cheese slices in a plastic pack at Aldi - you have to eat something.” (When asked:) “I mean, the De-En-Ah is not exactly original, but it fits perfectly for everyday use. I see it more on a younger man. It has nothing to do with a gentleman. But nice, yes, nice, can’t complain, right?”

“I know it, I’ve tested it before. For a few minutes it’s really nice, maybe a bit sweet, then there’s a drydown that’s somehow mossy, like lab moss, and a bit bitter, mature, but not really nice anymore, I think. Distinctive, but quiet. I don’t know if I’m expressing myself clearly?” (Pause) “Well, whatever... Hmm, it’s an office scent, or home office right now, whatever. It doesn’t hurt, has nothing to do with art. Can go, but can also stay.”

“I already know it, and the Moustache. And I wonder how Rochas could release this chemical sauce after that wonderful, rich, cultivated scent. It hurts my heart, and in my nose. Uarghigittigitt…!”

“I don’t know what everyone is always talking about. Hey, 30 euros, bam, spray-spray-spray, bam, smells good. Girlfriend: ‘You smell so fresh, darling.’ I’m like: ‘I know.’ What more do I want? I like it. No-brainer, all-rounder, signature, dumb-reach, dude, oh crap, now I can’t think of any more Anglicisms. Well, sh** it, you know what I mean. Cool release with okay performance. It’s doing great!”

“Art is subordinated to functionality. The shareholders applaud.” (When asked if anything else should be added:) “That’s laconic.”

“Good: Top note (fresh-citrusy-fruity, modern), bottle, sprayer, price, versatility. Average: -. Bad: Originality, base note, longevity. Recommendation: No blind buy, yes to testing if looking for an everyday scent in the cheap segment. Alternatives: Bleu de Chanel, Allure..., Dior Homme 2020, etc.”

+++

Subsequent street opinion:

“With each day I own this scent, my natural inclination to not criticize it too harshly declines. Quite synthetic slush.”