Ala79

Ala79

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Ala79 24 days ago
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Flower-fat saffron - where to go?
Saffron is special, yes. But I do have a few saffron references. I like saffron when it comes across as dry, tart, spicy, hot and woody.
The saffron here combines very closely with iris butter and becomes soapy, oily and sweet. I also soon notice jasmine, discreetly, which reinforces this sweet impression. It doesn't appeal to me. The fragrance is neither edgy, angular, spicy and bold, nor pleasing, fine or harmoniously beautiful.
Overall, "Cappadocia | Memo Paris" starts off very loud and strong, almost off-putting to me. This subsides within minutes. What remains is a feeling of neutral indecision alongside the flowery, greasy saffron. Is it good or bad? Is it sophisticated or irrelevant? I can't say for sure. Only that it also feels like a synthetic fragrance experience for me. But here too: There are enough fragrances in my collection that are more synthetic than natural and I like them. I have nothing against synthetics. But here it bothers me, it seems plasticky to me, the longer I hold out and sniff again and again.
I can definitely say no to the question of whether I want to smell like this. I can't answer the question of whether I would like to smell it on others conclusively, any more than I can say what I would actually like this creation to be.

Or do I just not understand it?
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Ala79 1 month ago 2 2
9
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
7.5
Scent
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The fabulous house of Jovoy - a fragrant journey with many twists and turns
Pfffft... "Ohhh ha." That was the spontaneous reaction. Fruit freshness, tangy, yes, definitely rhubarb, not lemony-citrusy, with the bergamot bringing more of a light teeny note. Then everything settles down, becomes calmer.

There is no need to be afraid of a waft of amaretto, I only notice a developing almondy-synthetic, but very light, exciting sweetness. The fir balsam is more perceptible to me. It temporarily imparts an earthy, masculine, somehow soapy after-shave note. Then the conduit soon becomes less needle balsamic overall, but generally woodier, softer and sweeter, and the tonka bean can also be clearly filtered out after a few hours. The ambroxan holds back here, fortunately - I have already tested other calibers.

Overall, I see the fragrance as truly unisex - sometimes it veers very slightly in a feminine direction, then again in a masculine direction, but only subtly in each case.

What I find pleasant, it was the second fragrance I tested from Jovoy, is that, as with "Remember Me | Jovoy", the notes are really clearly identifiable for me. But that doesn't mean that it is somehow disharmonious. On the contrary. It creates a tension, a certain excitement and variety through the special partners that were chosen for each note. (e.g. almond sweetness and fir balsam) I don't know what would be missing or too much.

I would rather compare it to French cuisine, which relies on the strength, aroma and taste of the individual ingredients and components, preserves them in their individuality and allows them to work side by side, does not "melt" them together through heavy processing, does not over-season them, but conjures up great, surprising component compositions from simple individual ingredients that support each other, but where each still stands on its own. And depending on what and how much of it you put on your fork, the taste experience is always different. Except that here it is an olfactory experience...

The nice thing about it, here it was the second time, in the meantime I have tested more, that the fragrance undergoes a real development with me (exception in terms of development: "Musc Pallas | Jovoy" ), it changes a lot and that in a beautiful and quiet way (yes, yes, the sillage is good, but unobtrusive - not a statement fragrance).

Once again, wearing a Jovoy is like a real fragrance journey that lasts for hours and has many twists and surprises in store, and not just the first time you wear it. And even if you have to walk for half an hour on a route that doesn't really enchant you, there is hope that you will soon have another "oh yes" moment. It's not exactly the experience we've often had in the meantime, ah yes, the vanilla-typical, soft (beautiful, but very often somehow samey) base. Or, at the beginning of fruity fragrances, the sweet fruit basket, the cherry and leathery, sweet and sweet presentation. For me, this one smells unagitated, elegantly French and soothing, well, "simply" different - not at all reminiscent of so many other DNAs, as I have sometimes read. For me, this fragrance does exactly that. It starts off fruity and tangy, shifts back and forth between subtly sweet and oily, coniferous and ends in a slightly woody, tart tonka base.

I'm really looking forward to more discoveries from this house - and I'd like to take this opportunity to thank @Skimmia for introducing me to this fragrance in the first place with her surprise, a bottle of "Remember Me | Jovoy", which is already the discovery of the year for me. I was immediately so blown away that I decided not to buy a second bottle and went straight for the bottle. Because the price-performance ratio is top in my opinion.

I didn't know anything about Jovoy beforehand, but it seems to be an incredibly exciting house that I need to look into more. They're not "beast" performers so far, but all in their vein are putting a new, different, special twist on the tried and true. Niche for fine beginner noses perhaps.

In the meantime, I have tested four fragrances, one hit the bull's eye, one just missed out on an immediate purchase, but ended up directly on my wish list ("Fire at Will | Jovoy"), "Musc Pallas | Jovoy" as a 10ml bottling almost used up (clean fragrance close to the body, which brought repeated compliments when hugging as a greeting) and the "21 Conduit St | Jovoy" at least so good that it definitely needs to be tested in more detail and will go on the "could fit list" and at 60:40 also moves in at some point... I'll certainly test a few more.

Testing - that's what I can only strongly recommend to everyone with the Jovoys!
2 Comments
Ala79 2 months ago 3
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
7
Scent
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A pragmatist falls in love
So, now I have to write another review or rather describe what has happened since my test - I'll leave my conclusion as a statement, it's just my opinion. Also because the reviews here tend to be negative. All the more reason for me to describe the last 24 hours. This shows just how, well, how different tastes are.

My husband. His former only and beloved fragrance "Live Jazz (Eau de Toilette) | Yves Saint Laurent" is as good as sold out - even the remaining stock. He tolerates my passion for perfume just as I tolerate his hobby, which I find bizarre, or perhaps he is rather happy that I know him so well and that I look for and recommend fragrances for him when I think they might be a good match. He wants to smell good, but no to testing. He comments on tasting requests more or less benevolently. Rarely with "oh yes".

I was able to convince him with suggestions with a wild mixture of "Wood Sage & Sea Salt (Cologne) | Jo Malone", "Acqua Colonia Intense - Wakening Woods of Scandinavia | 4711", "Halloween Man X | Halloween" and "The Scent for Him (Eau de Toilette) | Hugo Boss". He thought all of them were great, others made my eyes glaze over... Sometimes like this, sometimes like that. But it's definitely not a "niche type".

But now finally to "Anticonformiste | Mizensir" - and here something happened for the first time: I sprayed it on, sniffed it again and again, let it sink in... At some point, he came out of his office "What's that? That smells so cool!" I offer him the sample, he grabs it like a starving dog and sprays it. This morning he sprayed the sample almost empty and asked of his own accord for the first time: "What's it called again? Where can you buy it? Is it expensive?" The price I told him - unlike usual - caused no flinching, no flinching... He wants it. Period. My non-parfumo husband is in love with a fragrance for the first time at first sniff.

Thank goodness it has a slightly different effect on him than it does on me. Fresh, less synthetic, more aquatic, but not like the usual masculine fragrances of this genre, and less sweet than on me. Nevertheless, it's not a niche fragrance, it's nothing I haven't smelled before. I can live with the not really anti-conformist "Anticonformiste | Mizensir" on my husband, but very well. And I think I've now found a birthday present

So he definitely has a target group. Perhaps the examples of fragrances that my pragmatic husband, who is otherwise not very passionate about perfume, likes will help others with their assessment - but I don't smell any real similarity to any of them.

But that's how it is: you never know where love will fall. At least I never expected this. Perhaps the start of a new Parfumo? I will report back
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Ala79 3 months ago 8 3
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
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The more affordable Torino 21
I'll start at the back, with the conclusion: the decision between Torino 21 and Thé Basilic was made very quickly after two tests. The Molinard has the edge. Reason: price or value for money, as you like.

A direct comparison of the fragrances, as carried out in the test: Both start off minty, herbaceous and fresh. And while the Torino is more citrusy, the Molinard clearly focuses on basil. Nevertheless, despite slight differences, which I will discuss below, the similarity is very high - I would say at least 95 percent.

And a closer look: The rosemary quickly comes through in the Torino, which admittedly gives it an interesting twist, making it a little spicier, more multidimensional perhaps.

Both become softer, with fruity herbal freshness and slightly tart tea soon followed by a sweet, fruity musky pillow. In the case of Molinard, a little earlier, which in my opinion also gives it a B rating. You actually want the wonderfully refreshing herbal potpourri - so I do with both. It lifts the spirits in dark clouds and gives you stamina in sweaty heat. Here, Torino keeps its top note promise a little longer.

So am I criticizing the Molinard rather than choosing it? Yes! It doesn't hurt to add the Thé Basilic, even several times. Longevity, development and sillage require this - typically Freshie - in case of doubt. But also with Torino... A little later. But nevertheless.

But what is not an issue in one case, because a good 50 euros for 75 ml makes a repeat purchase realistic, hurts in the other case, at least for me: 180 euros for 50 ml. The decision is quite easy for me.
3 Comments
Ala79 3 months ago 2
9
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
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Direct comparison with Madera - it only takes one
Based on the reference in the statements, I compared Caramelo Vanilla with Madera directly. Both are very similar for a very long time.

The newer caramel interpretation from New Notes just has a slightly less rounded, pleasantly smoky and dirtier caramel touch, while "Madera | Omnia Profumi" is a little softer and more multi-layered, the hint of meadow flower is delicate, but gives it multi-dimensionality, which in turn makes it a little more interesting. But we are talking about minimal differences.

On the other hand, "Contemporary Blend Collection - Caramelo Vanilla | New Notes" has a little more staying power, both in terms of its lasting power and sillage. Also a touch.

You definitely only need one of the two; in terms of ml, Madera is slightly "cheaper" and more suited to softer, gentler tastes. In contrast, the scent of New Notes has a smoky, somewhat cheekier caramel note with a stronger unisex character.

Both are beautiful. It's only the subtle nuances that make the difference. I myself can't say exactly which one will win the race in the end...
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