
Quest for leather
There’s something endlessly intriguing about the leather accord found in many perfumes. I’ve always loved the scent of real, rugged leather - think new leather shoes, a well-worn leather jacket. Odd, when you consider it’s basically just cowhide, right? But I’ll get back to that later.
As much as I love that leathery scent, finding a fragrance that truly captures it has proven to be quite the challenge. Sometimes I pick up something spicy, other times fruity, rarely something slightly animalic - but rarely does it smell like the real thing. So I’ve decided to write about it, to document my quest for the most realistic, best-smelling leather perfume out there. I hope you’ll join me on this journey.
How it all began
Here’s a funny bit of history. While researching the origins of the leather accord - or leather note - I expected to find some romantic story about early perfumers embracing the scent. But to my surprise, the reality was quite the opposite. A few hundred years ago, the smell of leather wasn’t appreciated at all. In fact, perfumers created fragrances specifically to mask the foul odor of leather!
This all started in the French town of Grasse, with the house of Galimard - a master perfumer and leather glove-maker (or gantier, in French). His scented gloves helped make leather more palatable to the upper class. Fast forward a few centuries, and the story flips: the scent of leather is now seen as luxurious, sophisticated, even sexy. And that’s where we are today - leather as a note to be celebrated, not concealed.
Associations
When I read reviews, or ask store owners for a tour-the-leather, I realized there isn’t just one kind of leather scent. The leather note takes on many forms and shapes, from formal and clean, to dirty, animalic and even industrial. I’ve grouped them into what I believe are the main styles, with some examples for good fun.
1. Polished / Refined Leather

This is the kind of leather you might associate with a luxury handbag, the inside of a designer car, or a sleek new pair of gloves. It’s elegant, smooth, and often paired with floral or powdery notes like iris or violet. There’s a certain cleanness here - nothing raw or animalic. Just understated sophistication. If you’re new to leather scents, this is probably the most accessible entry point. Crying of Evil by Stéphane Humbert Lucas or
Cuir de Russie Eau de Parfum by Chanel
2. Raw Hide / Untreated Leather
This is leather in its most primal form. Imagine a workshop with freshly tanned hides hanging around - dry, rough, with a slightly bitter edge. It’s not pretty or perfumed; it’s honest, earthy, and maybe even a little unsettling. This style can feel more abstract, like the idea of leather before it becomes a product. Examples: № 03 - Lonestar Memories by Tauer Perfumes or maybe
Bull's Blood (2023) by Imaginary Authors
3. Suede
Suede, the softer cousin in the leather family. Think velvet-textured gloves or the lining of a fancy coat. These scents are usually more delicate, with powdery or almond-like notes (heliotrope, tonka, mimosa). There’s often a subtle sweetness here — cozy, intimate, almost cuddle-worthy. If rawhide is a rough cowboy, suede is the well-dressed aristocrat. Examples: London Extrait de Parfum by Widian ,
Clean Suede by Etat Libre d'Orange
4. Smoky / Woody / Birch Tar
Now we’re getting into the bold stuff. This is the smell of leather jackets, biker bars, and smoky bonfires. A lot of these scents are built around birch tar - a note that gives that classic burnt-leather vibe. It can be intense, almost medicinal, but also deeply addictive. These are the scents that punch you in the face (in the best possible way). If you’re into drama, this is your leather. Example: Hyde by Hiram Green
5. Shoe Polish / Industrial / Synthetic

Some leather scents lean heavily into the artificial - smelling like plastic, rubber, petrol or shoe polish. There’s something oddly satisfying about that chemical shine, especially when it’s used intentionally to create a retro or futuristic vibe. These are not trying to be natural - they’re bold, synthetic, and unapologetically weird. Love it or hate it! Examples: Rien Intense Incense by Etat Libre d'Orange,
Cuoium by Orto Parisi
6. Animalic / Musky / Barnyardy

Now we’re fully in the wild. These leather scents mimic the smell of skin, fur, sweat - even manure or stables. Some use castoreum, civet, or musk to recreate that “living animal” vibe. It’s funky, sexy, and polarizing. If you’ve ever visited a stable of horses, or a cow’s farm, you know what I’m talking about. Not for the faint of heart! Examples: The Lover's Tale by Francesca Bianchi,
Anubis by Papillon Artisan Perfumes,
Guilty Absolute pour Homme by Gucci
7. Spicy Leather
Spices can give leather a completely different character - making it warmer, richer, and more mysterious. Saffron is usually star here (it supposedly smells like leather itself), sometimes combined with cardamom, cinnamon, or pepper. These scents feel exotic and luxurious, a little dangerous even maybe. Perfect if you want your leather to feel golden and glowing rather than dark and smoky. Examples: African Leather Eau de Parfum by Memo Paris
8. Fruity Leather
Last but not least - the juicy twist. Fruity leather perfumes bring in notes like raspberry or plum to soften or contrast the leather. Sometimes it feels jammy and gourmand, other times bright and playful. Prime examples: Ombré Leather Parfum by Tom Ford,
Godolphin by Parfums de Marly,
Mosaïque by 27 87 Perfumes
Final Thoughts
Who knew leather could wear so many faces? From suede gloves to smoky jackets, barnyards to luxury cars, the leather accord in perfumery is anything but one-dimensional. Each of these styles tells a different story - and I’m excited to keep sniffing my way through them.
Do you agree with my choices? Do you have any favorite leather scents that perfectly captures one of these styles? Let me know, my quest is far from over!

For category #8, IMO Leather Forever Royal Arabian Edition is vastly superior to anything in the Tom Ford Ombre family. Unfortunately, it's also vastly more expensive. De Gabor's first version, Leather Forever, is another one of those leathery animalics that would fit in category #6 and is also quite pricey.
Hard Leather does an interesting transition from category #6 to category #1 as it dries down. Overall, though, didn't wow me.
I'm surprised you didn't mention Gucci Guilty Absolute.
(continued)
Hmm yeah I forgot to mention the Gucci, one of my own favorites!
Super interested in Untamable, I’ve put it on my watch list. Cobra & Canary I also have a decant of, I’ve yet to wear it though. First impression is that it’s too floral, but we’ll see.
Signature Leather Tabac by Zaharoff and Cruz del Sur I by Xerjoff fall into the animalic-leather category.
There are just so many good ones to try!
The thing I was mostly surprised about is that so many fragrances have a leather note!