Ineed1936
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Ineed1936
The masterpiece wich can`t be replicated ever!
I have studied this Opus VII since 2020, from the time when it was in the gray/black bottle, and I also have the opportunity to study it in detail in the current version. That's right, this monument masterpiece in perfumery, is a ruthless, extremely green, spicy and metallic leather. The metallic character is given by the overdose of galbanum, in combination with Cypriol and pink pepper. The extremely green and spicy character, almost burning your nostrils, is given by a melange of spices: here cardamom, nutmeg and, surprise, fennel (here fennel is a species related to cumin, hence the similar character to that of cumin), but another interesting spice was used: Fenugreek - which has culinary and gastronomic properties through its seed reminiscent of curry dishes. Finally, the leathery character is given by an overdose of labdanum, oud Assafi (Assam Oud) and patchouli. I spoke privately with Christoper Chong, a person extremely kind and open to talking with true enthusiasts, and he confirmed to me that in the first batches real ambergris was used, which I would be happy to find even today. And finally, a melange of resins and roots ala Amouge: Omani Franckincense, Cypriol and Costus root, which amplifies the perfume even more and gives it its oriental signature character. An exceptional perfume.
Citrusy saffran amber woods
I confess to you that I like this fresh creation of Rasquinet for the National Costume, but it does not fully satisfy me.
The accords of citrus fruits, Sicilian lemon peel and key lime are much too dominant and slightly unbalance the perfume.
The dominant central accord, therefore, is a metallic resinous and balsamic saffron, which mixed with the strong citrus of the opening and with a labdanum - cistus, creates the impression of the sweetness of burnt lemons on the bottom of the cooking pot.
It is an impression as dense as it is interesting to explore.
I would have liked the incense to have been much more present, but it exists, but extremely discreetly in the background, and it is already extinguished and not at all liturgical.
The perfume has a complete and perfect oriental appearance, I would rather place it in the Maghreb and Mediterranean area than in the Middle and Far East area.
This perfume is so well crafted that you can't distinguish the notes one by one.
For me it's more + this perfume and I'm glad it's part of the dion collection, even if I would have liked more smoke and more incense.
Eternal longevity and immense longevity.
It's hard to get rid of it even after showering.
It gets my recommendation for a fragrance that is almost unique in its approach.
Don't go by the opinions of those on Fragrantica, it doesn't resemble Messe de Minuit, not at all.
The accords of citrus fruits, Sicilian lemon peel and key lime are much too dominant and slightly unbalance the perfume.
The dominant central accord, therefore, is a metallic resinous and balsamic saffron, which mixed with the strong citrus of the opening and with a labdanum - cistus, creates the impression of the sweetness of burnt lemons on the bottom of the cooking pot.
It is an impression as dense as it is interesting to explore.
I would have liked the incense to have been much more present, but it exists, but extremely discreetly in the background, and it is already extinguished and not at all liturgical.
The perfume has a complete and perfect oriental appearance, I would rather place it in the Maghreb and Mediterranean area than in the Middle and Far East area.
This perfume is so well crafted that you can't distinguish the notes one by one.
For me it's more + this perfume and I'm glad it's part of the dion collection, even if I would have liked more smoke and more incense.
Eternal longevity and immense longevity.
It's hard to get rid of it even after showering.
It gets my recommendation for a fragrance that is almost unique in its approach.
Don't go by the opinions of those on Fragrantica, it doesn't resemble Messe de Minuit, not at all.
A more expensive Chanel 1957
This is basically an extremely simple perfume, a musky white floral.
The musks in it are of good quality, as Francis used to us, and they are white. That musks gives an airy, light, clean laundry and hand soap look.
Unfortunately, it is much too minimalistic and quite uninteresting, for the money they asks for.
For a similar but much more interesting experience, try Chanel 1957, from the Les Exclusiv range.
It is practically almost 1-1 to 724 but better worked by Polge. That Chanel tell us a story, while this 724 is wiped out, devoid of personality.
Nevertheless, the blending is very good, which once again denotes the experience and mastery of Francis Kurkdjian.
Medium longevity with medium sillage.
The musks in it are of good quality, as Francis used to us, and they are white. That musks gives an airy, light, clean laundry and hand soap look.
Unfortunately, it is much too minimalistic and quite uninteresting, for the money they asks for.
For a similar but much more interesting experience, try Chanel 1957, from the Les Exclusiv range.
It is practically almost 1-1 to 724 but better worked by Polge. That Chanel tell us a story, while this 724 is wiped out, devoid of personality.
Nevertheless, the blending is very good, which once again denotes the experience and mastery of Francis Kurkdjian.
Medium longevity with medium sillage.
Colonia Ebano with plumb and tobaco instead of ebony wood.
This is basicaly a very smart move from the great master parfumeur Francois Demachy.
Which through the skeleton of this Ebano, launched 4 years later, the much praised Dior Tobacolor.
In essence, the perfumes are the same, with a few minor differences:
Tobacolor is centered more on an amber vanilla and a plum-tobacco accord.
While Ebano, on the ebony wood. Both have in common the amber skeleton, labdanum and especially honey, which is the fundamental central element in both perfumes.
Both perfumes take on sticky-resinous undertones, due to the presence of resins and bee honey. However, tobacolor is slightly smokier.
Overall, Demachy has released some masterpieces that deserve their value.
Price-quality ratio - excellent
Generous longevity and beautiful sillage.
I recommend both, especially for a pertinent test!
Which through the skeleton of this Ebano, launched 4 years later, the much praised Dior Tobacolor.
In essence, the perfumes are the same, with a few minor differences:
Tobacolor is centered more on an amber vanilla and a plum-tobacco accord.
While Ebano, on the ebony wood. Both have in common the amber skeleton, labdanum and especially honey, which is the fundamental central element in both perfumes.
Both perfumes take on sticky-resinous undertones, due to the presence of resins and bee honey. However, tobacolor is slightly smokier.
Overall, Demachy has released some masterpieces that deserve their value.
Price-quality ratio - excellent
Generous longevity and beautiful sillage.
I recommend both, especially for a pertinent test!
Francois Demachy”s shape shifter
This is basicaly a very smart move from the great master parfumeur Francois Demachy.
Which through the skeleton of this Ebano, launched 4 years later, the much praised Dior Tobacolor.
In essence, the perfumes are the same, with a few minor differences:
Tobacolor is centered more on an amber vanilla and a plum-tobacco accord.
While Ebano, on the ebony wood. Both have in common the amber skeleton, labdanum and especially honey, which is the fundamental central element in both perfumes.
Both perfumes take on sticky-resinous undertones, due to the presence of resins and bee honey. However, tobacolor is slightly smokier.
Overall, Demachy has released some masterpieces that deserve their value.
Price-quality ratio - excellent
Generous longevity and beautiful sillage.
I recommend both, especially for a pertinent test!
Which through the skeleton of this Ebano, launched 4 years later, the much praised Dior Tobacolor.
In essence, the perfumes are the same, with a few minor differences:
Tobacolor is centered more on an amber vanilla and a plum-tobacco accord.
While Ebano, on the ebony wood. Both have in common the amber skeleton, labdanum and especially honey, which is the fundamental central element in both perfumes.
Both perfumes take on sticky-resinous undertones, due to the presence of resins and bee honey. However, tobacolor is slightly smokier.
Overall, Demachy has released some masterpieces that deserve their value.
Price-quality ratio - excellent
Generous longevity and beautiful sillage.
I recommend both, especially for a pertinent test!
