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Jordi, strikes again!
Man, this is incredibly potent, I swear I don't take it off my skin even after showering, so over 14 hours of life, and also, besides the dizzying wake in the first few hours, it settles down as calmly as possible, docile and beautiful, but always present! It's a polarizing perfume for some, but for lovers of resinous and leathery with tar and industrial aspect/mechanic's oil, pitch, it's just heaven! In the opening it goes right into an area explored long before by the great Alberto Morillas through his Gucci Guilty Absolute/Black Incense Malaki/Voice of the Snake, etc.
So, we are dealing with the undoubted signature of the talented Jordi Fernandez, Givaudan. Leatherwood or what molecules they use to recreate the industrial leather aspect of engine oil, to which frankincense is added, with saffron and other resins.
The undoubted metallic aspect is given by the overdose of ambroxan with amberwoods and ambrofix and ambermax50, formulas patented by Givaudan. So, anyone who knows a little chemistry knows that the overdose of ambroxan and its derivatives in a formula results in the creation of a particular septic, metallic, extremely diffusive and ambrasive smell. Hence the eternal persistence of it and other bombastic creations in this style!
I like it, at first it was on the verge of not convincing me, but after wearing it countless times, the perfume really revealed some fascinating subtleties and facets to me!
We truly have an oriental creation, in the style of LV Ombre Nomade, only it is a little more chiseled in placement and evolution, naturally differing in the working style of the perfumer and the different molecules used.
In all LV creations, Cavallier is known to use patented Firmenich formulas, since he worked at Firmenich all his life and continues to procure his raw materials from there!
Anyone who is passionate about the formulas and molecules of the big perfume houses will realize through the subtleties and structure that the perfumes made by IFF will always differ from those made by Givaudan, as well as those made by Firmenich and vice versa.
In any case, I conclude by saying, it is a brilliant creation!
So, we are dealing with the undoubted signature of the talented Jordi Fernandez, Givaudan. Leatherwood or what molecules they use to recreate the industrial leather aspect of engine oil, to which frankincense is added, with saffron and other resins.
The undoubted metallic aspect is given by the overdose of ambroxan with amberwoods and ambrofix and ambermax50, formulas patented by Givaudan. So, anyone who knows a little chemistry knows that the overdose of ambroxan and its derivatives in a formula results in the creation of a particular septic, metallic, extremely diffusive and ambrasive smell. Hence the eternal persistence of it and other bombastic creations in this style!
I like it, at first it was on the verge of not convincing me, but after wearing it countless times, the perfume really revealed some fascinating subtleties and facets to me!
We truly have an oriental creation, in the style of LV Ombre Nomade, only it is a little more chiseled in placement and evolution, naturally differing in the working style of the perfumer and the different molecules used.
In all LV creations, Cavallier is known to use patented Firmenich formulas, since he worked at Firmenich all his life and continues to procure his raw materials from there!
Anyone who is passionate about the formulas and molecules of the big perfume houses will realize through the subtleties and structure that the perfumes made by IFF will always differ from those made by Givaudan, as well as those made by Firmenich and vice versa.
In any case, I conclude by saying, it is a brilliant creation!
Atypical resinous Amber
A superb creation by the talented perfumer Yann Vansnier!
We are dealing with an atypical and not at all clichéd amber!
I dare to offer you, exclusively, part of the recipe used by Yann in creating this superb perfume, since I discussed it with him privately, therefore, in addition to the declared notes we have:
olibanum oil and olibanol, ciste absolute, dynamone and fir balsam resin.
A composition that is definitely resinous, rich, warm. The evervescent, coniferous and balsamic frankincense as we already know it feels excellent, but there is also a fantastic support from the cistus, which in addition to the balsamic/resinous and leathery facets, also comes with a fruity facet, which remains throughout the evolution of the perfume!
It is not a linear perfume and will certainly surprise you, especially amber lovers. Slight similarities to Ford's Amber Absolute, but not as harsh and much more layered, slight reminiscences of Grand Soir but without the dissonant roar of Amberwoods. I give it a score of 9.5 out of 10! excellent
We are dealing with an atypical and not at all clichéd amber!
I dare to offer you, exclusively, part of the recipe used by Yann in creating this superb perfume, since I discussed it with him privately, therefore, in addition to the declared notes we have:
olibanum oil and olibanol, ciste absolute, dynamone and fir balsam resin.
A composition that is definitely resinous, rich, warm. The evervescent, coniferous and balsamic frankincense as we already know it feels excellent, but there is also a fantastic support from the cistus, which in addition to the balsamic/resinous and leathery facets, also comes with a fruity facet, which remains throughout the evolution of the perfume!
It is not a linear perfume and will certainly surprise you, especially amber lovers. Slight similarities to Ford's Amber Absolute, but not as harsh and much more layered, slight reminiscences of Grand Soir but without the dissonant roar of Amberwoods. I give it a score of 9.5 out of 10! excellent
Rawhide under saddle with tobacco
Indeed, one of the strongest perfumes from Guerlain in their entire portfolio.
Cuir Intense is exactly that, a raw hide, freshly skinned from the animal, laid out to dry, left in the sun, smoked a little! Later given a good deal of birch tar, and chemically treated to resist futurism!
Returning, Wasser in his ingenuity, instead of birch tar he used woody elements of virginia cedar, which also presents smoky and balsamic qualities, tobacco leaves, certainly labdanum cistus in abundance, an incense that certainly cannot be missing and a lot of musks, slightly dirty.
The perfume is a perfection in terms of leather and one of the best representations of leather with tobacco. The perfume is balanced and not dissonant, yet it remains a Guerlain after all!
Cuir Intense is exactly that, a raw hide, freshly skinned from the animal, laid out to dry, left in the sun, smoked a little! Later given a good deal of birch tar, and chemically treated to resist futurism!
Returning, Wasser in his ingenuity, instead of birch tar he used woody elements of virginia cedar, which also presents smoky and balsamic qualities, tobacco leaves, certainly labdanum cistus in abundance, an incense that certainly cannot be missing and a lot of musks, slightly dirty.
The perfume is a perfection in terms of leather and one of the best representations of leather with tobacco. The perfume is balanced and not dissonant, yet it remains a Guerlain after all!
Endless Alkigalawood!
it starts off like a more subdued Purpose, full of the eternal and much-abused Akigalawood patented by Givaudan, which disgusts me and makes me nauseous! It may be an innovative molecule, but in the last 5 years it has been abused to the limit by Bisch together with other Givaudan perfumers. It is far too metallic and dissonant, in addition to the technical and olfactory qualities it offers.
Coming back, the perfume evolves beautifully, it goes into a kind of Caftan from YSL, about as full-bodied but a bit more synthetic in approach.
I like that they still used olibanum resinoid and myrrh and benzoin. A predictable interpretation of amber, which ultimately remains a common amber!
It doesn't have much of a story, but it aligns with the bombastic assortment of the house!
For me it is not with love, it is a little above average.
Coming back, the perfume evolves beautifully, it goes into a kind of Caftan from YSL, about as full-bodied but a bit more synthetic in approach.
I like that they still used olibanum resinoid and myrrh and benzoin. A predictable interpretation of amber, which ultimately remains a common amber!
It doesn't have much of a story, but it aligns with the bombastic assortment of the house!
For me it is not with love, it is a little above average.
Cecile Zarokian of course!
This is a mix between Amouage Royal Tobacco and Amouage Outlands. Guess who made all three of them? Easy, Cecile Zarokian!
This beautiful woman, rightly so, did her own advertising and justice on her instagram and her social networks. Bravo to her! If Creed is not able to publish its own perfumers with whom it collaborates...
And Creed didn't even bother to officially declare her the perfumer createur of this fragranc, Anyway, what a disgrace of house it has become, Creed...
The perfume is superb, an excellent creation in which the balsamic resins of myrrh and olibanum prevail, accompanied by licorice. The base is full of amberwoods as we have been used to for several years, but nothing that will scratch the sinuses.
For me it's an alright fragrance way, way, overpriced!
This beautiful woman, rightly so, did her own advertising and justice on her instagram and her social networks. Bravo to her! If Creed is not able to publish its own perfumers with whom it collaborates...
And Creed didn't even bother to officially declare her the perfumer createur of this fragranc, Anyway, what a disgrace of house it has become, Creed...
The perfume is superb, an excellent creation in which the balsamic resins of myrrh and olibanum prevail, accompanied by licorice. The base is full of amberwoods as we have been used to for several years, but nothing that will scratch the sinuses.
For me it's an alright fragrance way, way, overpriced!
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