Amber Labdanum Jo Malone 2025

Amber Labdanum should probably have been called "Amber Incense." It is mainly a sweetened incense accord, though for some reason I don't find it as cloying as Encens Suave Eau de Parfum, the fragrance it is being compared to the most; the sweetness is more smooth and vanilla-y than the overwhelming sugariness of Encens Suave. It also reminds me a bit of Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold Eau de Parfum though I think even higher quality. Really nice pleasant resinous/Oriental frag that is versatile and appealing without any of the challenging aspects that sometimes accompany scents like this.

A superb creation by the talented perfumer Yann Vansnier!

We are dealing with an atypical and not at all clichéd amber!

I dare to offer you, exclusively, part of the recipe used by Yann in creating this superb perfume, since I discussed it with him privately, therefore, in addition to the declared notes we have:
olibanum oil and olibanol, ciste absolute, dynamone and fir balsam resin.
A composition that is definitely resinous, rich, warm. The evervescent, coniferous and balsamic frankincense as we already know it feels excellent, but there is also a fantastic support from the cistus, which in addition to the balsamic/resinous and leathery facets, also comes with a fruity facet, which remains throughout the evolution of the perfume!

It is not a linear perfume and will certainly surprise you, especially amber lovers. Slight similarities to Ford's Amber Absolute, but not as harsh and much more layered, slight reminiscences of Grand Soir but without the dissonant roar of Amberwoods. I give it a score of 9.5 out of 10! excellent

I had been trying to get my hands on Encens Suave EDP for some time, waiting for the price drop, but in the meantime, a friend managed to get a bottle of this little gem for me. While they aren't clones, they fill out the niche of this spicy incense that could be worn as an oriental heater. Amber Labdanum is slightly deeper and has much more prominent vanilla. It's definitely beginner-friendly – I feel like a lot of people have very strong opinions on incense, they either love it or hate it, but here the amber and vanilla base notes dial the smokiness down a notch, while a very faint orange note freshens it up. This is a perfect choice for a winter night near a fireplace, when you don't really want to offend people's noses with a church-like woody incense; it's cosy rather than holy. It lasts for a long time, but doesn't project loudly, which, with this scent profile, I consider to be an advantage – you want a warm, smoky aura around yourself, not fill out the whole room with resin, giving everyone a headache. For a hardcore incense maniac, this is probably a pass, but if you know someone who is looking for a winter scent but doesn't want a straight-up sweet gourmand, this might be the perfect choice.

… or also "for those who find Sorcinelli's 'Voix Humaine 8 | Filippo Sorcinelli' too sacred."

Jo Malone is a keyword for me that stands for subtle and close to the skin, while amber and labdanum, in my understanding of fragrance, are not always overwhelmingly loud, but certainly have a distinct presence. So a test was necessary. In fact, this fragrance does not bring a great development or a fragrance innovation, nor is it an amber or labdanum "club." But for anyone who finds the whole woody-sacred niche nonsense too peculiar, or if one needs a resinous, semi-sacred, church-quoting, yet unobtrusive companion, or simply wants this DNA in a more worldly and friendly form, this is a very good choice.

Amber Labdanum smells like I feel when I turn on the incense burner (but keep the dish high up, far from the flame), brew myself a nice hot tea with oat milk, and curl up under a fluffy blanket. Cozy, pleasant, unexcited, clean. In the base, there is a DNA that I recognize from Malone and can describe as "perfumy": slightly soapy, but without white flowers, more like a nearly forgotten hint of shaving soap that still clings to the neck in the afternoon.

The scent here is not a challenging ultra-niche art; it is simply a beautiful perfume with hints of amber and the warmth of labdanum. I believe the oak leaf takes away the dark resinous depth of the whole spectacle and makes the fragrance experience lighter, adding a green-fresh sprinkle. Perhaps it also reminds me of classic shaving soap.
The bitter orange is not singularly identifiable, but I think it is what creates this bright incense association. Its fresh citrus and slight bitterness help to lighten the heaviness of labdanum and the warmth of amber, framing both in a sparkling freshness that inevitably evokes thoughts of incense.
Vanilla is also part of the mix, used cautiously. Just like in "Voix Humaine 8 | Filippo Sorcinelli," it brings a sweet yet bright and cozy dimension, making the Turibulum blend approachable without contributing any significant edible-like sweetness.
Almost, the fragrance has a note of oat milk in black tea in the dry down. This creaminess that you feel at the back of the palate is present here as well: sweet, soft, minimally creamy, but not lactonic or greasy.

I can easily imagine wearing this in everyday life when one simply wants to feel comfortable - clean, well-groomed, quietly and lightly warm with a hint of smoke.

At first, I felt like I was in a sauna. A good pine infusion - similar to "Berserker | Marc Gebauer." The spiciness is initially in the foreground. However, it slowly but surely transforms into something smoky, which reminds me more of an oriental incense stick than a campfire.
Only after a certain time - let's say 15-20 minutes - do you get the lovely finish. Alongside the strong spiciness, a light sweetness joins in, reminiscent of a frankincense-honey mix. But not too sweet.
The scent lasts a long time and is very well perceived.
The price could be a bit lower. Otherwise, a successful and striking fragrance.