Medianus76

“Look there! Up ahead under the old oaks near the clearing,” Chris whispered to his friend Will, roughly pointing with his index finger in that direction. Will, who was nervously crouching on his knees, pushed aside the dense underbrush hanging down from the rock ledge. The air shimmered in the heat of this late summer day when suddenly this incredible and legendary scene manifested before his eyes...

The two had always been good friends. Always on the lookout for new adventures, they had recently rummaged through an old attic. In the process, they stumbled upon an old map. Dusty and written in faded ink, this fragile parchment depicted a place they believed they actually knew. The map showed the enchanted clearing in the Dark Forest. Many eerie tales surround this forest in general and the clearing in particular. That’s why they had never dared to go there, even though curiosity had always tempted them. But now, with this old map, they could no longer resist the temptation to visit this place. For at the destination of this map was something incredible depicted…

Will couldn't believe his eyes. “Pinch me hard,” he asked his buddy. “I think I’m dreaming…”
On an old gnarled stump of cedar wood sat a Pan. At the base of the stump, a carpet of orange, summery citrus flowers twined around it. Sweet and benevolent, they filled the surroundings with their herbaceous, sweet, creamy scent. The Pan himself, an ancient being from long-lost times, had two legs overgrown with moss and lichen, resembling those of a ram. On his head, two impressively curved horns gleamed softly and velvety in the fading evening sun. In his hands, he held a pan flute, and every time he played it, it released sparkling bubbles of fine musk. The bubbles got caught in his long wooden beard, burst, and mingled with the other aromas into an essence worthy of such a figure.
What a breathtaking image and what a breathtaking scent it was that the evening breeze gently and inconspicuously carried over to the two. An atmosphere from another world, which couldn’t have been more magical…

“Come on Will, let’s go before he discovers us,” Chris urged his friend. Will replied softly, “Yes, let’s disappear and keep this a secret. This shall be our secret of the summer…”

**

A Midsummer Dream was surprisingly, after a long time, an olfactory landmark for me. On one hand, the aura of this rather complex work reached me, and on the other hand, it convinced me just as much. The very fact that I could immediately draw an imaginary bridge to Terre d'Hermes and a little to The Tycoon during the first test made me sink deeply into this composition.
The connection is, in my opinion, obvious. The orange blossoms and the citrus sprinkles at the beginning are richer and clearer in Midsummer than in TDH, with all their facets. Especially the top note scores here, although it appears less dry and brittle, but rather expressive and present - simply beautiful.
The further development is enhanced by the velvety and soft resins, which add fullness and depth. Through the magical aura of the forest moss, it sparkles continuously, and every time those soap bubbles burst and the scent molecules disperse as a fine veil in the surroundings, it was all over for me! The elegantly woven musk characterizes and shapes the scent structure significantly and represents, for me, an essential component in the entire spectrum. All these components ultimately make Midsummer what it is:
Magical, mysterious, truly a bit like something out of a fairy tale, and deeply touching to the soul…

Since this was the first Roja I delved into, I can and must slightly correct my opinion regarding the label. Mainly the probably exaggerated pricing policy, as the price for Midsummer also seems relatively high to me. To what extent this is actually justified, I cannot judge. Another small drawback of the scent would probably be the lack of edges and corners. The scent is always round, soft, smooth… a soul-soother indeed. But that’s exactly what it wants to be… a midsummer night’s dream!

“The cheerful man is the master of his soul” (William Shakespeare)

I was very pleased to welcome you on this dreamy summer night...

“New York” comes from the French fragrance house Parfums de Nicolaï. The owner, Patricia de Nicolai, is the niece of the renowned perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain and has been running her own brand since 1989. Independent and free from the dictates or ideas of the fragrance industry, she loves to implement her own visions and thus does not follow trends or movements. She skillfully expresses the combination of tradition and modernity in her scents. Not least through the use of exclusive and natural ingredients, powerful and intense concentrations of the highest quality are created. The fragrance “New York” is considered a pioneer of her own line and is already a classic today…

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Equally a classic and pioneer of its genre is the film “Once Upon a Time in America.” Undisputedly a milestone in film history, Sergio Leone captured a gripping story on celluloid that begins in New York during the 1920s at the time of Prohibition. The story centers around friends Noodles and Max, who become increasingly entangled in a swamp of violence and crime through the illegal alcohol trade and other criminal activities.
If one were to olfactorily underscore this cinematic experience, the fragrance New York would be the perfect little potion…
New York possesses the potential of a classic, paired with a certain dose of nostalgia, while its cosmopolitan nature and charming characteristics offer a still-functioning and timeless fragrance DNA.

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In the wild 1920s, one dressed stylishly and elegantly to visit one of the many jazz clubs in Harlem or Manhattan. Dressed in a casual tuxedo, the determined man of the world applies the fragrance generously. After all, one wants to be noticed to celebrate exuberantly and extravagantly…
The opening delights with a wonderfully refreshing citrus note that appropriately envelops its wearer. The citrus is by no means overwhelming, as it is kept in check by a certain spiciness and subtle lavender note, cinnamon, and clove. This creates a hint of fougère - Très chic!
As the gentleman then makes his way to a “speakeasy,” the so-called “whisper bars” or “moonshine bars” of that time, the rugged moss has already taken the lead with its mild herbaceousness. In these “moonshine bars,” high-proof alcohol and beer were served during the time of alcohol prohibition in the USA. This was the basis of the roaring atmosphere of the 1920s…alongside cocaine and other intoxicants.
The oak moss continues to play a significant role, fixing the molecules and transforming the wearer into a distinguished gentleman. New York never appears too angular or harsh; rather, it gains a noble frame and softly elegant quality through fine woods.
Subordinate in nature, but still accentuating, accords of musk, beaver, and co. give the projection a certain “wild” facet, allowing for an intense night of celebration.

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However, New York also fits fantastically into the present and does not represent an outdated, but rather a contemporary old-school fragrance. The finely tuned aromas interact lightly and complement each other. Playfully and casually, the fragrance can be worn for almost any occasion, creating an overall pleasant aura without overwhelming or overpowering its surroundings. Good longevity is also a hallmark, as is an appropriate projection.

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“I’ve been to Paris, I’ve been to London, I’ve been to Rome, and I must say, there’s no other place like New York. It’s the most exciting city in the world.” (Robert De Niro)

Thank you for reading, remain loyal as always, and a big thank you again to Gentilhomme for the fine sample…

Torroella de Montgri is a Spanish municipality in the province of Girona, Catalonia, and at the same time the seat and home of the Spanish label Santi Burgas. As a tribute to the town and this enchanting region, another part of the Primal Waters series was created - TDM.
The diverse and lush landscape, rich in plants and herb groves, served as an inspiring template. The goal was to create a reminiscence of one's homeland. Extracted from robust herbal blends of traditional medicinal plants, an olfactory portrait of this beautiful landscape was to emerge.

This all sounds incredibly exciting, albeit very ambitious. It is certainly no easy task to preserve authentic and regional aromas and transform them into fragrant impressions. But it works - more than successfully and as if crafted by a master hand. That much can already be revealed.

TDM initially offers a refreshing carpet of herbaceous scents, nestled in a Mediterranean late summer landscape. When you close your eyes, Torroella de Montgri provides a short vacation in the sunny south, allowing for a little distance and relaxation from the demanding everyday life…
Vast and hilly fields, lined with lush vegetation, are surrounded by rugged and barren rocks. Everything shimmers under the scorching heat of the blazing sun. The scent of thyme and sage mingles with the spicy air, and a gentle breeze carries the slightly sweet aromas of chamomile and lavender fields from the nearby surroundings. The wild rosemary climbing the rocks blends with the other scents into a beautifully fragrant mélange, conveying a sense of carefree freedom and boundless lightness.
To avoid wilting too much under the high sun, a few cypress trees in the vicinity offer their conical shade for a moment of respite. This completes the olfactory portrait, and the herbal essence is complemented by elegantly and beautifully fragrant woods of a bitter and ethereal nature.
The scent spectrum is never intrusive or feels forced. TDM enchants through the flowing interplay of the various ingredients; everything is cleanly and authentically woven together, resulting in a charismatic and very wearable fragrance. Even though I have never been to this region of Spain, the scent certainly suggests the aromas of this area in a credible and understandable way.

The longevity and sillage are consistently in the solid middle range. From my fragrance horizon, Torroella de Montgri creates a very unique and multifaceted veil, and certainly demonstrates a certain uniqueness in relation to similarly conceived fragrances.

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Do not chase the past and do not lose yourself in the future
The past is no more
The future has not yet come
Life is here and now…
(Buddha)

Thanks again for the samples to Gentilhomme and Scentennial

Blowing olfactory gloom and sending meaningless compositions into the vastness of the perfume universe was certainly not what Santi Burgas aimed to showcase with the release of the Primal Waters series. Originally, using unadulterated and natural raw materials, these are all characteristics that Rodrigo Flores-Roux wanted to convey as a guiding principle for his series. The way he has achieved this in an extraordinary manner is conveyed by Aroma de Hormiguero through its puristic, sustainable, and light-footed appearance.
The goal here, as the name suggests, was to preserve and olfactorily reproduce the aura of an anthill, or a mound of ants. This idea immediately evokes certain associations with forest, earth, and nature, as well as cleanliness and order, since ants are known as the environmental police.
But how does one conceive such an undertaking? On one hand, the choice of natural ingredients is certainly paramount; on the other hand, and this is exactly what makes the scent so authentic, a typical aroma is needed! Stylishly, and fitting like a glove, formic acid is indeed used. Of course, no ants are sacrificed; rather, it involves naturally occurring derivatives of formic acid. Thus, through their use, the ant nest can be manifested in liquid form, and captured in this beautiful bottle, it is always ready to invite you into the depths of the ant colony…

Even the opening immediately reveals the direction it takes. A herbaceous fresh opening accord signals purity and gives a first impression of how "clean" this dwelling is.
In my perception, the scent is constantly accompanied by a certain mineral facet. This makes the ant nest literally shine and lends the concept the necessary emphasis to be ethereally pure.
Somewhere or at some point in between, the acid also comes into play. It creates aromatic sharpness, but without being biting or even caustic. Not in the slightest, as this well-measured use contributes to the indescribable aroma of the ant nest…
To ensure that it doesn't remain too clean, and since we are in the forest, woody forest aspects complement the mood. As the scent develops, it is primarily the fir that beautifies immensely and elevates everything to a whole different, mild resinous level. The interpretation allows for much leeway, which certainly reveals earthy and slightly fungal veils. Overall, this only rounds off or enhances the olfactory offering!

A trip into the ant nest is definitely worthwhile and comes highly recommended. I couldn't even say what might be unappealing or bothersome about the scent. The longevity and projection are adequate, but in my opinion, could be a bit better. This is often the catch when the ingredients are of natural origin and not the full synthetic spectrum is offered.

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It is in human nature that we do not stumble over a mountain, but rather over an anthill…

Many thanks for the samples to Gentilhomme and Scentennial

The setting sun was already low on the horizon when the last pale light of the day crept unpromisingly through the dirty windshield of his car. It was not a good day for Tellus. One of those ominous days that would have been better off never happening. If only he had behaved differently just this once. Blinded by the sun, his last shred of hope melted away. His deepest wish to turn back time was, of course, denied to him, as there was no way back! What seemed eternal was, at that very moment, already a long-faded past. Farewell is a quiet word!

To recharge and clear his senses, he sought shelter and refuge in the woods. Forests had always been places of inspiration for Tellus. Whenever he felt lost in life, he would go there to ground himself and become one with nature.
He buried his hands deep in the steaming, damp forest floor. The strong aromas rose up, enveloping him in a cloud of comfort. He inhaled in deep, rhythmic breaths, feeling his lungs fill with the earthy air. With each breath, the weight of the departing day lifted a little, and every cell of his troubled soul was embraced by the soft, warming moss of the ground. A hint of sweetly decaying leaves, combined with the deeply rooted mycelium, wafted from the forest, wrapping around him like a protective cloak. From the majestic fir tree before him, dozens of resinous, fragrant droplets oozed from the bark. It was almost as if the tree were shedding tears for him on this sad day. In the evening sun, the countless aromatic pine needles of the tree sparkled, raining down upon Tellus, granting him strength and confidence for a new hope… Everything will be alright!

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Liquides Imaginaires reveals something magnificent here. The creations of the label are not always straightforward, requiring a bit of effort and understanding. Tellus is no different. Those who feel overwhelmed by the harsh and intense opening likely associate it with peaty, moldy earth. All garnished with subtly fungal animalic notes. Extremely authentic, but specific. However, those who allow themselves to be led without prejudice will experience the true beauty and uniqueness of this underrated presence. Thus, Tellus creates a humanizing aura or projection through the entirety of its components, which feels incredibly familiar to us and ultimately springs from our nature.

A heartfelt thank you for the generous sample to Gentilhomme.