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DieNase
Helpful Review
2
Lemonlavenderamber in an ashtray
After heaving worn New York for three days in a row now (a record for me) I feel reasonably qualified to write a comment on this scent.
I had ordered a sample of this scent at AlzD about half a year ago. I found it interesting, but I think I was not ready yet for the smokiness and the patchouli notes. A bit to butch for me I thought. I gave the sample to my brother who didn't particularly like it.
Last week-end I met this scent again at Wuchsa's and judged it as very good and definitely bottle-worthy. Those around and the boss himself approved that it was delicious on me and I bought it spontaneously (what I normally avoid doing, especially when I try lots of scents at a time).
Well, now I have been wearing NY for three days in a row, which I usually don't do either, need I say more?
So, what does it smell like?
In the beginning I get above all lavender and lemon. From the beginning there is a touch of sweetness (amber) and some earthy patchouli. After a while patchouli, amber, leather and woods merge to something that reminds me of an ashtray. Sounds disgusting, but it is not. Maybe a cold pipe would be a better way to describe it. I don't find a better comparison to this earthy-smoky accord. This accord with some sweetness, some spices and the rest of the herbal lavender and a very long lasting lemon note from the beginning settle to a highly delicious scent, which lasts all day.
I would like to smell this scent on a guy, which doesn't mean a woman can't pull it off. Well, at least I wear it! On my skin the amber provides some soft sweetness as a counterpoint to the pungency of the lemon. The smoke makes it round. Therefore, it is smooth enough for a woman. Although being a bit sweet (depending on the temperature!) and rich, it's not too heavy or cloying to my nose. It keeps some transparency and airiness, which makes it elegant.
It is perfect for autumn and winter.
Some compare it to Pour Monsieur by Chanel (and some to Bois du Portugal). I think, they share some DNA, but not that much after all. NY is warmer and sweeter. PM doesn't have lavender, but more lemon and cardamom. NY has patchouli, while PM oakmoss. The lavender gives a slight fougère caracter to NY being classified as an oriental chypre, while I would not call PM an oriental but a citric chypre.
Now compared to New York: I see similarities regarding the pungent citrus note combined with amber. But New York is much softer and smoother, Portugal more pungent, more brutal.
I love and own these three scents (well, just a decant of BdP). They are different enough to own them all. I imagine that people who like PM might like New York (and Équipage) for winter (like I do).
The projection and longevity are very good. Three spritzes are more than sufficient for 10 hrs in the office. Two would do as well, but three is more fun ;)