Merlotsupern

Let's start by saying that Black Orchid EdP was released 20 years ago - perfumed by Mr Negrin, who went on and released a few more iconic scents (for other houses). In 2006, it was quite ahead of its time and it remains ever so relevant today, as flankers are still being released.

Black Orchid is a somewhat complex fragrance with a few interesting shifts. It sits in that genderless fragrance purgatory where despite its floral facets, it transcends fix gender classifications.
As most of the Tom Ford repertoire (perhaps not including the latest releases), it has that je ne sais quoi that puts their perfumes in the middle, between what is "designer" and what is "niche".

The opening is a mix of truffle, bitter orange and a earthy sweetness. As it settles, a floral core of wet mildly indolic orchid emerges, balanced by a quasi-minty patchouli and spices.
After 2-3 hours, as the dry down unfolds, Black Orchid reveals a warm and long-lasting base of vanilla, incense, and dark plums. There is some boozines, but it is short lived in my opinion.
Overall, sweetness is moderate, preserving the composition's maturity.

Performance is notable, 8+ hours on skin with a rather strong sillage for at least a couple of hours.
Similarly to Portrayal Man (another one from Mr Negrin), this is an autumnal scent and even better for evenings.

To be clear, Black Orchid is not a perfume for everyone, as it has a polarizing quality. It could be perceived as heavy, hence not ideal for daily wear.
However, for those who appreciate the Tom Ford aesthetics, Black Orchid will be an effective olfactory accessory.
It's not my favourite scent ever, but in my opinion it is worthy of a 10 for its rather visionary (at time of release, at least) composition.

Silver Oud is composed by the Parisian perfumer Cécile Zarokian, known for her other creations for Amouage, Nishane, and Granado. In this case, she went for a pretty fearless exploration of Assam oud, one of the most potent varieties of agarwood.

The opening is a blast of animalic oud. It is raw, barnyard-like, and animalic. It’s the olfactory equivalent of stepping into a leather tannery. For those who are entirely new to oud, this can be jarring. But for those who are a bit more seasoned, it will be a thrilling reminder of what "real oud" smells like before it’s tamed by other notes.

As the initial Assam storm settles, the composition begins to reveal its architecture. Cypriol, patchouli, and cedarwood form a smoky, earthy scaffold that supports the central oud accord. These notes collaborate, creating a textured "forest-floor effect". The inclusion of castoreum and birch tar adds further leathery, animalic depth, reminiscent of classic masculine perfumery but executed with taste. Silver Oud doesn't smell dated.

The fragrance transitioning is remarkable. After about an hour, the vanilla absolute kicks in to soften the edges, introducing a subtle sweetness. After 3-4 hours in, the drydown is where Cécile reveals her masterful skills: ambrarome lends a caramel warmth, while gaiac wood and cedar keep the composition grounded in a veil of smoke. Given the complexity, this is difficult to imagine... so the most practical option is sampling. :)

In terms of performance, despite its intensity, Silver Oud is not exactly a "beastmode" perfume. In fact, the sillage is moderate but persistent. It’s a scent that performs best when given space to breathe, so you should follow Wusubi's example when he is talking about spraying away from your chest area. Resist the urge to sniff your wrist every five minutes, this one needs time to unfold. Ultimately, Silver Oud is a smoky, leathery, oud-laden composition that will reward your patience.

I am starting to get a bit confused, and I don't mean to be harsh... I tried this today at Selfridges.
Yes, it has a rather non-descript cherry opening but it rapidly veers into a oud maracuja x erba pura vibe. I really don't understand why Nishane is getting into this kind of releases. I guess that big exclusive contracts (i.e. £££) are at play, especially when you have a successful perfumer behind your creations.

The silver lining is that if you are a fan of Nishane as a brand, you don't need to despair. In my opinion, these "Oudous" exclusives are just not worth it.
Get a sample if you can, and judge yourself.

To create a composition as structured and layered as Laudano Nero requires an intricate understanding of raw materials, something the Terenzi family, with their long history in candlemaking, appears to possess. While the brand’s reputation may be tainted for some by its more commercially successful, but perhaps less nuanced, creations like Kirkè Extrait de Parfum, Laudano Nero stands out... and I suspect that there will be a few more in their catalogue, which I will need to sniff soon!

Laudano Nero opens with a dark and boozy accord of absinthe and cognac, warmed by a smoky/leafy tobacco. This initial burst is complex, and you may need a few wears to understand what is effectively happening.

After 1 hour or so, the scent evolves into a strong note of ash and a dry slate accord emerge, creating a rather unique stony texture. This is balanced by a subtle sweetness from acacia honey and a touch of rose, which adds a velvety quality without becoming overtly floral.

As the fragrance settles, a rich resinous base reveals itself. Incense, labdanum, and a woody oud provide a deep foundation, while oak and vetiver contribute an earthy, grounded quality.

The overall profile is an oriental spicy fragrance that has almost a "gothic feel". I usually avoid associations, as they may be very personal... but on this occasion I can make an exception.
Laudano Nero evokes a feeling of walking through a dimly lit, historic street on a rainy autumn night, with the scent of wet stone, old wood, and embers in the air. This is a perfect fragrance for autumnal weather.

Considering its composition's complexity and maturity, exceptional longevity (12+ hours on skin, 24+ hours on clothes) and strong projection, Laudano Nero is nothing short of an olfactory piece of art, a dark masterpiece.

In the world of fragrance, a rare circumstance has occurred. The listed notes for Torino22 are a decently accurate! Contemporarily, a more common event has occurred: people see "saffron" and are suddenly struck by acute olfactory hallucinations, where everything is similar to Kurky's red bottled fluid...

Anyway, Torino22 opens with a scent of rubbery saffron paired with a slightly sweet/balsamic (realistic) eucalyptus, and zesty bergamot. This opening intrigues me, as it evokes the scent of inflatable covers used to enclose sports fields during winter. As for Torino21 (where it is more about balls... tennis balls!), this is a clever nod to the line connection to the world of tennis.

As the fragrance evolves, the initial sweetness of eucalyptus dissipates, making way for a more grounded heart. A relatively strong mate note (a herbaceous tea accord) emerges, intertwining with woodiness. The tea-like sweetness is perceptible, but it is balanced by a bittery clary sage. This middle phase will last around 5-6 hours, until everything blurrs into the final dry down.

At that point, a musky, woody base will reveal itself, providing an enduring foundation. The tea undertone will still float around in the background, which is a nice touch.

Compared to Torino21, IMHO Torino22 is quite different and more original.
It has a robust and structured profile. As a result of its composition, it is versatile and suitable for year round wear.
The performance is strong, offering 10+ hours of longevity on skin with good projection for the first 3-4 hours, and still radiating of skin after 8 hours.
Overall, I'd say that it is one of the most peculiar among Xerjoff's blue tinted bottles... worth a sniff, especially if you like tea based stuff!