Merlotsupern

I used to think Invasion Barbare was the benchmark for modern (fougere) lavender - serious, dry, and impeccably tailored. But Sunshine Man quietly outmaneuvered it.
I kept the Amouage creature and let the MDCI go.

Sunshine Man's opening is an immediate burst of aromatic lavender, sweetened by orange brandy and dry, herbal immortelle. It’s a curious boozy, floral, and slightly candied mix. I see that some have likened it to Pez or candied citrus, but it never veers into syrupy slop territory. Instead, it’s textured... almost grainy, like sun-warmed sand.

As it transitions into its heart, the fragrance becomes greener and more aromatic. Juniper berry adds a gin-like freshness, while clary sage and bergamot bring a crisp, herbal lift. This phase is where the backbone structure really shows: the sweetness recedes slightly, and the composition breathes.

The late drydown is where Sunshine Man settles into something more grounded. Vanilla and tonka bean lend a creamy softness, while cedarwood anchors the composition with a dry, woody base. The immortelle still persists, maintaining the sun-dried, warm hay-like texture.

Performance is solid. On my skin, it lasts 10+ hours with moderate projection. It’s not a room-filler, but it radiates around you. 3 to 6 sprays, depending on your personality... and, if I know that I will spend most of my day outdoors, I am happy to increase the count.

Some say it’s not "Amouage enough.” I disagree. Even in 2015, Sunshine Man was proof that the house can extend its footprint into something unexpected... something that doesn’t have to rely on incense, smoke or bombast. Sunshine Man is impressionistic, versatile, textured and it scores high in my book. I'd sample it, while it is still available.

Journey Man is often referred to as "a tobacco fragrance by Amouage", but in my opinion this description is reductive and misses the point of this nuanced creation. It's a scent that embodies its name, with a slow-burning evolution that moves from a fiery start to a warm, contemplative finish.

Journey was my third purchase from the Omani house two years ago, a bottle I initially let go of, only to recently reacquire it. My renewed appreciation stems from the brilliant use of the cypriol note, which, despite the perfume's reputation, is quite structural in the composition's drydown.

The fragrance begins with a blast of bitter orange, Sichuan pepper, and cardamom. The combination feels like a dance between the spicy pepper and the cooling cardamom. A touch of opulent neroli adds further bitter-floral freshness. This initial phase is energetic, in contrast to its eventual dry down.

As the journey progresses, after around 1 hour, the scent becomes woodier and smokier, with a delicate, wispy frankincense and the earthiness of cypriol.
The supposed headliners - tobacco and leather - are diffused. The tobacco is dry, leafy and a bit smoky, weaving in and out of the incense trail, while the leather is soft, and fleeting.
As the drydown progresses, you may be able to perceive a slight sweetness perhaps coming from Geraniol and tonka.

In terms of performance, Journey isn't a loud scent. It is a quiet burn with a reserved scent bubble, good for formal settings. Longevity wise, 8 hours on skin and a bit longer if you spray on clothes.

Overall, Journey is a well blended 12-year-old composition from master perfumers Morillas and Negrin that hasn't aged at all. It might be only for those who appreciate hidden gems... but it should be on your frag-radar, especially if you like cypriol!

This Nagel creature is a contemporary interpretation of a classic fougère, echoing the elegance of Creed’s Green Irish Tweed and the barbershop inclination of Platinum Égoïste Eau de Toilette, but with a sleeker and simplified edge. Where GIT leans on verbena and PE on lavender, H24 inserts a clary sage overdoes and a unique fixative molecule called Sclarene, a Givaudan captive, which emanates a machine-like ozonic warmth and likely contributes to its impressive longevity, exceeding 10+ hours on my skin.

The scent opens with a crisp herbal blast, quickly softened by narcissus and rosewood, before settling into a drydown of oakmoss and faint woods. In my opinion, unlike its Eau de Toilette predecessor, the EDP version tones down the metallic sharpness and introduces a more earthy character.

Performance is notably strong, also in terms of close but long-lasting projection (especially if you overspray a little bit...), making it suitable for all seasons. Scenario wise, you will be covered for most daytime activities.

Purpose 50 is not a mere intensified version of Purpose Eau de Parfum, but in my opinion a better version of it (that doesn't smell like boiling pasta). Purpose 50 is earthier, denser, and overall heavier. The 50% extrait concentration brings out a mineralic frankincense, softened by vanillin and sandalwood, which tempers the dryness without compromising its depth.

The composition leans into aspects of vetiver, papyrus, akigalawood, and saffron, transmitting a feeling of a scorched terrain. The aforementioned addition of vanilla is used structurally, to make the scent more wearable though still contemplative.

I don't think that the recent Bisch's Amouage releases can be considered in isolation... and probably others should be added to this discussion. There’s a clear thematic continuity across these perfumes: dryness, incense, mineralic woods, and a sense of earthiness.

Talking about Purpose, we can say that it is the most polarizing of the Prupose, Purpose 50 and Decision trio. Dry, intense, and smoky. It’s a bold take on frankincense, with suede, saffron, and Mystikal adding layers of spice. I found this to be the most challenging to wear.

Decision, instead, is the simplest one in structure, yet perhaps the most versatile. It opens with bergamot, pink pepper, and cardamom, leading into a heart of myrrh and juniper, and settles into a base of cedarwood, vanilla, and patchouli. It’s clean and contemporary... less about earthiness, more about versatility. While lacking the complexity (and price tag) of Purpose 50, it’s arguably the most adaptable of the three.

Ultimately, it’s not hard to imagine Bisch (carrying a bottle of akigalawood absolute) and Salmon walking the same desert paths, absorbing the same sun-scorched silence and translating it into different olfactory expressions.
Each of these fragrances might feel like a different time of day, in the same place - and, unfortunately, this comes with a feeling of redundancy. Taste is highly subjective, but I don't think that there is enough reason to own them all.

Reflection 45 is a fragrance that invites reflection - pun intended - not just on its scent, but on its place within Amouage’s evolving identity. As someone who started their Amouage journey with the original Reflection Man, I find myself with mixed thoughts about this extrait version.

The original was once considered the brand’s most “wearable” and “simple to understand” scent. But in today’s landscape, with Bisch’s newer creations and The Essences line, that simplicity feels less unique. Reflection 45 builds on the OG’s DNA with added complexity: frankincense and myrrh lend a resinous depth in the dry down, while lavender and iris introduce a mild powdery floral facet.

Performance-wise, the two diverge. The OG projects boldly for the first couple of hours but fades after 5-6 hours on skin.
Reflection 45, on the other hand, offers a more consistent scent bubble for 5-6 hours, with longevity stretching to 8 hours on skin and nearly 24 on clothes. Projection is more subdued, making it a quieter but longer-lasting presence.

There’s also the matter of value. Reflection 45 is undeniably elegant (perhaps even more so than the original), but its elevated price and formal character make it less versatile. For someone like me, who borrowed a bottle but doesn’t attend many "elegant functions", it’s not going to become a permanent addition. If your lifestyle leans toward refined occasions, it could be a top-tier choice. Otherwise, designer alternatives from YSL or Gucci might offer similar vibes at a more accessible price point.

Ultimately, Reflection 45 is a well-crafted evolution but whether it’s worth the purchase (or upgrade) depends on your taste, budget, and lifestyle.