Merlotsupern

Xerjoff Torino21 stands out in the crowded field of summer fragrances by doing something deceptively simple - making mint last. Where many perfumes introduce mint only to let it fade within minutes, Torino21 maintains a persistent mint note that feels like freshly crushed leaf mint, the kind you'd muddle into a cocktail. This minty clarity is paired with lemon, basil, and thyme, creating an aromatic green-citrus opening.

The heart of the fragrance introduces subtle florals: lavender, jasmine, and rosemary alongside blackcurrant, which adds a slightly sweet dimension.
The dry-down is understated, with musk and lemon verbena rounding out the composition. The base doesn’t offer deep complexity, but it supports the top and heart notes well enough to keep the scent coherent throughout its wear.

In my opinion, the more intriguing aspect of Torino21 is its subtle nod to tennis culture - very appropriate, given the context of this fragrance line. Though not as overt as in Torino22 (my fave in this line), I can detect an accord reminiscent of tennis balls or the ambiance of a tennis pitch... perhaps a mix of rubbery freshness and indoor court air. It’s a curious touch that adds uniqueness.

In terms of performance, Torino21 offers moderate longevity. About six hours on skin, and maybe 1-2 extra hours if sprayed on clothing. The minty scent bubble will be noticeable for the first couple of hours. It’s not a powerhouse, but it’s consistent.

Torino21 is a fragrance that succeeds by staying true to its minty promise. It’s a clean, green, and subtly sporty scent that feels wearable. Essentially, this is a viable option for those seeking a summer fragrance that doesn’t rely on heavy woods or aquatic clichés.

Alexandria II is a fragrance that blends oriental richness with a contemporary twist, anchored by a peculiar use of Laotian oud combined with a rather unusual lavender opening. In fact, the composition starts with a curious mix: lavender, apple, cinnamon and rosewood. The lavender adds a powdery lift that contrasts with the gourmand warmth of apple and cinnamon. In my opinion, this head accord is what sets Alexandria II apart... it’s rare to see lavender leading in an oud-centric perfume, and it lends a nuance of brightness to the otherwise deep and woody profile.

The heart reveals rose, lily of the valley and cedarwood, transitioning the scent into a floral-woody phase that feels quite elegant. The base is where the Laotian oud becomes more perceptible (but never dominant or overpowering), along with the sandalwood, vanilla and musk. The oud here is earthy and slightly hay-like, not really animalic nor stinky. IMHO it is vaguely reminiscent of Loudo oud (courtesy of Mr Maurice), but without the chococaramelly factor.

Performance is very good. It easily lasts 10+ hours on skin, and when applied to clothing, it maintains a consistent scent bubble throughout the day. Projection is substantial for the first few hours, then settles into a moderate but persistent aura.
Seasonally, Alexandria II is versatile. While it is an obvious option in cooler weather, wearability in warmer months is manageable by containing the number of sprays. Two-three spritzes suffice for a refined presence, without overwhelming.

In summary, Alexandria II is a well-structured, oud-forward (but not dominant) fragrance with a unique lavender twist.
Do I think it is overpriced? Absolutely yes, but we have discounters and/or people who are too afraid of the Laotian oud... and will be quite keen on getting rid of their bottles :)

Amouage, a name (once) synonymous with a particular approach to perfumery: challenging, potent, and often unique... has, like many successful organizations, shown signs of an evolving strategy. This shift, while a subject of debate among devoted omaniac fans, is understandable as the house seeks to broaden its appeal. Decision is perhaps the tangible evidence of this transition, presenting itself as a fragrance that is, in essence, a decision still pending.

In fact, Bisch's work has an unfinished quality, as if it were a two-dimensional sketch of a scent... and I am beginning to think that the colour of its bottle wasn't picked at random. It lacks the expected layers and dynamic evolution often associated with Amouage's past creations, remaining largely static from the initial spray to its final moments on the skin.
The fragrance seems frozen in a single, consistent state, a departure from the dramatic olfactory journeys the brand is known for.

Putting aside the sometimes-harsh criticism from those who view this change as a deep betrayal of the brand's heritage, "Decision" is, by all accounts, a solid product. In my opinion, Bisch seems to have navigated this new direction with a certain respect for Amouage's DNA. The fragrance avoids reliance on his signature devilish ingredients and steers clear of overtly mainstream appeal.

The scent itself, while 2D, achieves a balanced and well-executed experience. The interplay between the green juniper and the warm vanilla is grounded by the subtle, resinous depth of Amouage's frankincense and myrrh.
Decision maintains a consistent scent bubble for 10-12+ hours, making it a reliable and long-lasting choice for those who can appreciate its comforting, albeit linear, character. In my opinion, this is a much better product than most of Sorcinelli's incense forward works, so if you like that kind of perfumery style, you should give Decision a sniff.

The Lover's Tale is a compelling and pretty unique example of leather fragrances in independent perfumery. It is an animalic and emotionally charged (you will need to read about its inspiration to understand this) composition that balances raw aspects with delicate nuances.
The leather here is the centerpiece, as you'd expect: a bold, vintage-inspired, and animalic accord with a slight barnyard edge, but with an intimate twist.

The fragrance opens with a sparkling and effervescent quality, with notes of bergamot and aldehydes providing a bright contrast to the richer elements that follow.
Jasmine and a powdery Bulgarian rose create a floral tension, while the sweet and fruity presence of peach and honey adds a touch of creamy smoothness.
In this perfume, the dominant raw leather is supported by castoreum and labdanum, but softened by a floral chypre structure. In my opinion, this balanced duality makes it one of the rare unisex leather-dominant fragrances.

During the very long dry down (easily up to 24h), The Lover's Tale reveals its classic chypre structure, with oakmoss and vetiver providing an earthy and slightly bitter elegance. Sandalwood and iris butter will become more evident and add a soft, velvety texture, creating an enduring base.

For lovers of leather, it’s without a doubt, a must-try.
Compared to Cuir Intense, Lover’s Tale feels more mellow in its opening, thanks to the presence of honey and peach. It also outperforms it in longevity and sillage. While Cuir Intense is still a strong, well-crafted leather, it plays (slightly) safer and leans more traditionally masculine.
Lover’s Tale, by contrast, is more daring and evocative, though potentially overwhelming for those unaccustomed to the boldness of independent perfumery (i.e. sample first).

Crafted in 2023 by Hamid Merati-Kashani (Mr. Layton) and Alexis Grugeon (Mr. Flaming Lemons), King Blue is a surrealist fragrance that thrives on contradiction. It opens with a fresh burst of citrus (mandarin and blackcurrant laced with pink pepper) radiating brightness. But this lightness is fleeting. Almost immediately, a barnyard-tinged oud and smoky resins pull the composition into shadow, creating a tension that will define the scentsperience.

This is where King Blue becomes truly interesting: it is both bold and restrained, abstract yet grounded. The heart reveals a smoky blend of frankincense and amber, while the base unfolds into a textured landscape of Assam oud, sandalwood, oakwood, and patchouli. A leather note emerges not as a dominant force, but as a bonding factor. It gives me the idea of worn suede, with a rubbery, rooibos-like (a.k.a. tea) nuance.

After the 4-hour mark, the dry down reveals an ashy, more refined leather that lingers close to the skin, offering an intimate presence which will last for the rest of the day.

Despite its potent ingredients, King Blue defies the weight typically associated with oud fragrances. It wears surprisingly well in heat, and - in my opinion - its abstract heart renders it genuinely unisex.
This is not a typical oud bomb, nor a traditional leather-based scent. It’s a fragrance of dualities: fresh yet animalic, loud (in the first hour) yet wearable, ideally masculine yet fluid. King Blue is an outstanding olfactory paradox, where disparate elements converge into a composition that is abstract, powerful, and unexpectedly versatile.

PS: if it is the first time that you are trying King Blue, avoid smelling it close immediately after you sprayed it - especially if you are not used to oud in general. Let it sit for a while and smell it in the air.
On hotter days, I usually spray it on skin only just below my lower chest... It works like a charm.