It was early March in London when I was strolling with my husband through a street market on Inverness Street in Camden. My eyes spotted a small stand in the distance with many unmarked bottles and well-known Arabic perfume brands on a small wooden shelf. As I approached, I quickly realized that the Arabic perfumes were merely a customer magnet and were meant to show what kinds of fragrances could be purchased there. They were perfume oils, and we tested a few. Quickly, I found a perfume oil reminiscent of
Tobacco Vanille Eau de Parfum for my husband, but I couldn't find anything for myself so quickly; apparently, I don't have the typical women's taste.
Why am I telling you all this? Psssht, here it comes:
I was asked what fragrance notes I liked, I showed my Parfumo list and instinctively said saffron, tonka, jasmine, ... . The seller's eyes lit up. He pulled out a bottle and handed me the cap. I smelled it and just said "Wow." After a quick skin test, I decided to take it home. 63 ml of oil for about €50. Unfortunately, I forgot to ask what fragrance it was supposed to be.
Once back in Germany, I wore the perfume oil regularly and planned to visit a perfume store to ask which original it might correspond to. But the next day, I received some sought-after samples. Among them was the original
Tobacco Vanille Eau de Parfum and coincidentally also
Arabians Tonka.
When I sprayed it on the test strip, I immediately said to my husband, "That's it. That's the original of my perfume oil!" I quickly grabbed the perfume oil and sprayed/applicated both on my arms.
And now I come to the original:
On paper, a wonderful fragrance! On my arm, however, came the disappointment: sweet saffron, a hint of rose, and foremost a dirty, earthy note - as if I were repotting plants. That must be the oud and the leather. Every few minutes, I compared them again. The "dirty note" lingered for a good half hour and unfortunately overshadowed the other notes.
Once it subsided, the fragrance became noticeably more pleasant, and saffron and rose were clearly recognizable. The saffron is by no means medicinal or metallic, and the rose doesn't have that old-lady touch. The tonka bean was now also distinctly perceptible, and after a while, the amber joined in. I can guess the remaining fragrance notes, but they mostly stay in the background.
In the drydown, I can still recognize the saffron and the rose, but the tonka takes the lead, and you get a sweet, warm, elegant scent that simply smells luxurious.
The longevity and sillage are very good (9h+) and if you like these oud and leather notes, you get a nice Arabic scent that isn't too spicy, with a recognizable character for a good price-performance ratio.
Maybe it's just my skin, but this "dirty note" is really strong and unfortunately a deal-breaker for me - it's a shame, but I'm all the more grateful to have accidentally found this perfume oil, as the oud is more of a woody background note there.