Saitenreiter

Saitenreiter

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Another Masterpiece by Annette Neuffer
For a long time, I have been searching for perfumes that continue to satisfy me even after frequent wear and reveal new facets that I can enjoy.

Because I have often encountered the problem that scents, after being applied multiple times, no longer matched my taste or I suddenly perceived notes that I did not like at all and had not noticed before. But most people here will probably be familiar with this phenomenon.
That is also the reason why I test each perfume at least four or five times extensively before I am willing to spend a larger sum on it.

Only sometimes, really very rarely, do I discover a perfume that I am immediately sure I will still like long after. Examples of this have been Widian Black II, Oud save the King, and the one I love and praise here, Rosa Alba.

What fascinates me immensely about this scent is the authenticity of the notes; the rose smells fantastic and could not have been incorporated better into the composition.
Meanwhile, it is not too feminine; I always feel comfortable when I ignite this little firework on my skin, it practically sparkles in my nose and gives me the strength to start the day, certainly thanks to the friendly support of bergamot and pepper.
Neroli and jasmine contribute to the relaxing yet revitalizing base mood of the fragrance. The sandalwood paired with beeswax grounds the creation and ensures good longevity. Unfortunately, some perfume lovers do not understand that a scent made exclusively from natural raw materials can never last as long as an Ambroxan bomb from Dior, brave new world...

Speaking of composition, I find that you can feel Annette composing her masterpieces like a classical music piece; it truly comes from the heart and not from a computer algorithm that conjures up a chemistry bomb, as is the case with almost all major manufacturers.
In fact, Annette really uses ONLY natural oils and extracts, which is truly unique; no one else does that.

I do not want to advertise here. However, I had the pleasure of being able to view her studio when picking up my Hepster bottle, which I found incredibly interesting and made me realize how much hard work goes into her creations. I was simply impressed; she produces each bottle only after an order in meticulous handwork.

The prices are truly more than reasonable when compared to mass-produced goods from Xerjoff or Amouage, to name just two well-known brands (I like some scents from these brands, but they are simply outrageously overpriced for what you get).
But here you get a pure natural product that has been created with passion and with respectful use of natural raw materials.

I bow to this artist, who is still too unknown in our scene.
But I am convinced that this will soon change and she will receive the attention she deserves for her olfactory masterpieces.

Thank you for your wonderful creations, from the bottom of my heart!

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Naturally unrefined!
The Peridot gemstone, also known as Chrysolite, is a particularly pure form of olivine and has a light green to yellow color. So too does the fine fragrance from Olivier Durbano from Grasse.

His products are meticulously handcrafted by the master himself in the world capital of fragrances and bottled. Each perfume contains three small stones of the mineral around which the theme of the scent revolves.

The opening begins with a beautifully balanced mix of spices; I primarily perceive fresh ginger and pepper, but without becoming scratchy as can often be the case with such concoctions. After a while, light notes of cumin and rosemary emerge, perfectly rounded off by the jasmine. For some reason, I associate hyssop with purity, and that comes into play here as well; I find the scent simply smells "clean."

The heart of this perfume is characterized by a sage note mixed with jasmine. Verbena adds fresh undertones, and therefore, in my opinion, this scent is best suited for high summer and autumn. Sometimes I sense a distant kinship to "Parco Palladiano V: Lauro," although I perceive this one as more complete and significantly higher quality.

I would describe the perfume as fresh-spicy with sweet undertones. This light sweetness probably comes from the vetiver and musk in the base. At this point, I should mention that I generally do not like vetiver. However, here it is introduced so subtly that it supports the overall picture and does not come off as overly sticky-sweet, which often poses a problem for me with vetiver scents. The cedar and amber then give it a woody-warm note in the dry down.

I would place the longevity at about 5-6 hours; beyond that, it remains rather close to the skin. The sillage is relatively subtle when compared to, for example, Labradorite #13.

I found it relatively difficult to comment on this because it is a complex blend of many natural essences that is not necessarily easy to describe. A scent progression is definitely present; to my nose, it transitions from herbal-fresh to warm-woody, although of course, this is just my subjective impression.

For those who appreciate natural scents and enjoy herbs, I hereby give a definitive recommendation to test this. Unfortunately, there is currently no distribution for these fragrances from the Durbano house in Germany, which I hope will change in the future….
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Powerhouse with addictive potential!
The perfume line by Olivier Durbano from Grasse is a true insider tip and really worth testing! Why? You will find out in the following lines…

During my vacation in the perfume metropolis in August 2018, I had the luck to meet Olivier and get to know some of his creations. It was an interesting visit, and I quickly realized that there is more behind these scents than just good craftsmanship: namely pure passion!

Far away from marketing and the big "shopping hells" that most perfume lovers have to go to for inspiration, Olivier's atelier is located in a small alley that leads to the "Place aux Aires," one of the main squares in Grasse. The shop itself looks relatively unremarkable from the outside, but I was drawn in by the pleasant smell of incense wafting gently onto the street and, of course, couldn't resist taking a peek inside. Thanks, little nose, you can always be counted on!

After a brief conversation and some furtive glances at the now 13-scent collection, we got down to business. I mentioned the notes I like, and initially, a few fragrances were sprayed on test strips. Labradorite and Chrysolithe immediately captivated me. The idea behind the perfumes is to capture the properties and scents of the respective stones they represent and to convey them olfactorily. Accordingly, each of his works has a story, often closely linked to mythology. For each of his fragrances, the master takes a year, and you can smell it.

Since 2005, as mentioned above, 13 creations have emerged in this way, all of which are unique and very interesting in their own right. Labradorite starts with Palo Santo, marjoram, and cardamom, which for me represents a very distinctive top note that I have not encountered in this form anywhere else. Even the oily consistency on the skin indicates that this is a very high-quality product, mostly made from natural essences. For the animalistic components, of course, synthetics are used, as a high value is placed on ethics and sustainability.

The top note dissipates after about 15 minutes, and I can clearly perceive tuberose, incense, and civet. An amazing combination, I think. It reminds me, albeit distantly, of "Kouros" by YSL, but this is top quality and without compromises on the raw materials. What you see is what you get, and there’s no mushy concoction from the lab.

After a few hours, I smell primarily civet, castoreum, and oud in the base, all very animalistic and expressive. It is definitely not a wallflower, and the wearer should have some cojones, otherwise, in my opinion, they won't come across as authentic. Although I'm only in my mid-twenties, the scent somehow reminds me of past times and fragrances that were worn in the 90s and are no longer available… probably due to the down-to-earth mix of animal notes, incense, and woods.

The longevity on my skin is definitely above average, and the sillage is impressive! Care should be taken with the dosage, as you might be eagerly approached by complete strangers (grin).

Anyone who enjoys animalistic-woody scents should definitely test this one! The quality speaks for itself; no compromises were made, and you can feel it….
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Saitenreiter 7 years ago 6 4
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Damn, and then I remembered that something is still on the stove...
That’s roughly the association I have when I smell this fragrance nowadays.
At first, it convinced me, the first time at Douglas on the KÖ in Düsseldorf, and soon the sample arrived at my home. But on that day, I must have smelled about 30-40 fragrances and was correspondingly jaded.

During the first test, I liked it very much, although my fellow humans scorned me with wrinkled noses and silly comments like "Puhh, is your nose broken again?" or "What the hell smells so bad?"
From then on, I only wore it in private and unfortunately have to revise my first impression: It smells quite synthetic-burnt...

I always try not to be influenced by others' opinions, so I let my girlfriend sniff it to confirm my impression from a fine nose: Burnt milk with synthetic myrrh?

The opening is extreme and shows no mercy. After one spray, the whole room smells of it.
The idea itself appeals to me, but in my personal opinion, the execution has not succeeded here.
It seems incomplete to me, almost as if the perfumer was pressured to release their project due to time constraints. The fragrance is definitely of high quality, but I still miss something.

As it develops, it becomes more pleasant and a bit rounder, yet I still can't get the association of burnt out of my head. Too bad, it could have been...
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Intense and Hefty!
During my last visit to the Dior boutique in Munich, I came across this gem.
Of all the scents from La Collection Privée, only Ambre Nuit appeals to me even more, that should be said upfront.

What I have noticed about the fragrances from the aforementioned collection is the fact that, in my opinion, truly high-quality raw materials are used here.
I have only encountered an authentic Aoud in "The Night," created by Dominique Ropion for Éditions Malle, which also costs a staggering €1100 for 100ml... and nearly made my girlfriend gag. Well, I can't really blame her since it is a damn bombshell!

To my nose, leather, oud, patchouli, and civet are the most present, but over time, the leather recedes just a little and allows resinous, woody notes to take the stage.

The sillage is truly extreme. For context: I applied just 1 drop to my wrist two hours ago, and a roommate who came in through the door smelled it from a distance of no joke 5 meters away.
Admittedly, he has a keen nose, but I still find that astonishing.

In the drydown, it reminds me a bit of Oud 27 by Le Labo, just without those slightly fruity notes, although the Dior appears much more high-quality.

Anyone who enjoys authentic, slightly animalic Aoud should definitely give it a try, not to mention fans of lacquer & leather!
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