
DrB1414
321 Reviews

DrB1414
5
Ahead of its time.
What else is to say about this infamous perfume? I am certain all fragheads have heard of Leather Oud, notorious since its introduction as part of the original "La Collection Couturier" by Maison Christian Dior back in 2010. Since then, it has been reformulated twice and later axed by an unrecognizable Dior, today with a new creative director in charge.
I strongly feel this was Demachy’s finest achievement, since Eau Noire was credited to Kurkdijan, while many of the other greats in the Privee line signed by Demachy were amazing but lacked originality (Cuir Cannage, Oud Ispahan, Mitzah, Patchouli Imperial). When Leather Oud came out, it was something novel. Not only for Dior as a house with deep roots and strong French heritage, but for the fragrance scene at that time, especially in the designer realm. And Demachy did a great job. He went full Oriental and challenging, the opposite of what Dior is advertising nowadays. Regarding the “challenging aspect,” I will say, however, that I never felt Leather Oud to be an outrageous perfume as the community made it out to be. But let’s be honest, the average hobbyist also finds Musc Ravageur, MKK, and the likes to be “skanky.” Sure, there is some stank to be found, yet cleverly balanced by a myriad of other aspects. Therefore, depending on how deep you went down the rabbit hole, this might or might not be challenging to you. For me, it is not. Yes, there is a perceivable civet note that does steer towards unclean territory, and the beeswax accord can trigger further animalistic sensations. But apart from that, there is nothing “unsafe” about it; spices, leather, smoked wood chips, and resins. I think Demachy wanted to create a “new leather” perfume by choosing agarwood as the source of his inspiration. To quote him: “Oud wood exudes aromas of Leather when it is burned. It is an astonishing, very animal-like scent... Oud inspired me to make it the focus of an intense, woody Leather fragrance. A very masculine fragrance bursting with character.” That is a good way to describe Leather Oud. It is mostly a leather perfume. It also smells manly, more like “man juice.” I could not picture a woman wearing this. I simply cannot. When I smell it, a few things come to mind: A biker, or a cowboy, after riding all day, his leather jacket reeking of a combination of sweat and cigar stench. Or, perhaps one of those biker or truck driver pubs. Shabby place, smell of testosterone, topped ashtrays, and unkept toilets. I will also say that overall, this is a very good, quite surprisingly good, “Oud” perfume. Of course, there is not a drop of real oud in it, but the way it is built through various accords, it creates a very accurate rendition of how burning wood might smell, and even some oud oils. It gives off an accurate leather and burnt wood smell. The smoky and woody aspects are prominent, next to the leather, spices, and the sweetness of the beeswax and resins. I have tried a few oud oils that approximate what Leather Oud tries to convey. However, being a perfume, that experience is not as heavy and thick. Therefore, thumbs up to Demachy for doing his homework. Leather Oud opens spicy, sweet, and warm - heaps of cardamom in the opening paired with the sugary quality of the beeswax. Gradually, the leather creeps in next to the charred wood, transitioning into smoky territory (think burnt-wood smoke accord). In the base, the civet appears, and paired with beeswax, it creates a buttery, creamy impression. The labdanum further emphasizes the smoky and leathery facets. It is a very dynamic and complex perfume. In the air, it smells like sweet incense, sweaty leather, and wood. I always thought that it smells incredibly sexy.
Regarding the various reformulations, the first, minor one that happened in 2013 was negligible. After 2017, it had lost most of its charm, turning into a rather bland, dry, and smoky woody-leather scent. I am not surprised it got axed, but rather that it stayed around for so long. Gone but not forgotten. Indeed, an amazing perfume, ahead of its time, and still relevant today. I used to own two more flacons that I sold down the road, thinking that it can’t be that difficult to find a replacement, especially nowadays when the market overflows with this DNA. However, it became clear to me that there was nothing to replace it, so I made sure to mend my mistake. Surely, I will not part with it again.
IG:@memory.of.scents
I strongly feel this was Demachy’s finest achievement, since Eau Noire was credited to Kurkdijan, while many of the other greats in the Privee line signed by Demachy were amazing but lacked originality (Cuir Cannage, Oud Ispahan, Mitzah, Patchouli Imperial). When Leather Oud came out, it was something novel. Not only for Dior as a house with deep roots and strong French heritage, but for the fragrance scene at that time, especially in the designer realm. And Demachy did a great job. He went full Oriental and challenging, the opposite of what Dior is advertising nowadays. Regarding the “challenging aspect,” I will say, however, that I never felt Leather Oud to be an outrageous perfume as the community made it out to be. But let’s be honest, the average hobbyist also finds Musc Ravageur, MKK, and the likes to be “skanky.” Sure, there is some stank to be found, yet cleverly balanced by a myriad of other aspects. Therefore, depending on how deep you went down the rabbit hole, this might or might not be challenging to you. For me, it is not. Yes, there is a perceivable civet note that does steer towards unclean territory, and the beeswax accord can trigger further animalistic sensations. But apart from that, there is nothing “unsafe” about it; spices, leather, smoked wood chips, and resins. I think Demachy wanted to create a “new leather” perfume by choosing agarwood as the source of his inspiration. To quote him: “Oud wood exudes aromas of Leather when it is burned. It is an astonishing, very animal-like scent... Oud inspired me to make it the focus of an intense, woody Leather fragrance. A very masculine fragrance bursting with character.” That is a good way to describe Leather Oud. It is mostly a leather perfume. It also smells manly, more like “man juice.” I could not picture a woman wearing this. I simply cannot. When I smell it, a few things come to mind: A biker, or a cowboy, after riding all day, his leather jacket reeking of a combination of sweat and cigar stench. Or, perhaps one of those biker or truck driver pubs. Shabby place, smell of testosterone, topped ashtrays, and unkept toilets. I will also say that overall, this is a very good, quite surprisingly good, “Oud” perfume. Of course, there is not a drop of real oud in it, but the way it is built through various accords, it creates a very accurate rendition of how burning wood might smell, and even some oud oils. It gives off an accurate leather and burnt wood smell. The smoky and woody aspects are prominent, next to the leather, spices, and the sweetness of the beeswax and resins. I have tried a few oud oils that approximate what Leather Oud tries to convey. However, being a perfume, that experience is not as heavy and thick. Therefore, thumbs up to Demachy for doing his homework. Leather Oud opens spicy, sweet, and warm - heaps of cardamom in the opening paired with the sugary quality of the beeswax. Gradually, the leather creeps in next to the charred wood, transitioning into smoky territory (think burnt-wood smoke accord). In the base, the civet appears, and paired with beeswax, it creates a buttery, creamy impression. The labdanum further emphasizes the smoky and leathery facets. It is a very dynamic and complex perfume. In the air, it smells like sweet incense, sweaty leather, and wood. I always thought that it smells incredibly sexy.
Regarding the various reformulations, the first, minor one that happened in 2013 was negligible. After 2017, it had lost most of its charm, turning into a rather bland, dry, and smoky woody-leather scent. I am not surprised it got axed, but rather that it stayed around for so long. Gone but not forgotten. Indeed, an amazing perfume, ahead of its time, and still relevant today. I used to own two more flacons that I sold down the road, thinking that it can’t be that difficult to find a replacement, especially nowadays when the market overflows with this DNA. However, it became clear to me that there was nothing to replace it, so I made sure to mend my mistake. Surely, I will not part with it again.
IG:@memory.of.scents
Updated on 04/23/2026
2 Comments



Civet
Leather
Balsam tree wood
Beeswax
Cardamom
Labdanum
Oud
Amber
Birch
Clove
Sandalwood
Cedar
Patchouli
Vetiver








Static
BoBoChamp
Patj1994
Aldest
MrSerious96






































