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Armani Privé in the Wrong Flacon
Designer fragrances are often spoken of in a rather derogatory manner. A lot of money for often little innovation, and too boring and pleasing for experienced noses. One doesn't have to share this viewpoint, and it is often more shaped by one's own growing experience than that the fragrances are really bad. Many niche houses, on the other hand, focus on striking, complex, and captivating scents that often appeal less to the masses than the "clean" designer.
Now Giorgio Armani connects both worlds in the latest version of Code. This is surprising, as the EDT is indeed an extremely special, but also mass-appealing "crowd-pleaser." The Elixir surprisingly diverges strongly from its siblings and dives into the dark world of luxury fragrances.
One can imagine the scent as if taking the EDT, overlaying this base DNA with very prominently present and smoky leather and vanilla. Those who tend to shy away from strong leather fragrances may find relief here: For it is not a musty, harsh leather, but - despite a strong intensity - a gentle leather that never comes across as intrusive. The base DNA of Code is not completely gone, but it clearly takes a back seat. The scent profile could, in a blind test, be attributed to a Tom Ford, albeit with significantly less mustiness. In the designer realm, one would probably not expect this fragrance, especially not as a flanker of a Code.
When comparing it to the EDT, the latter will still be the stronger everyday scent, unless one is a lover of leather fragrances. Especially for niche enthusiasts, the Elixir is worth a test. The quality, longevity, and sillage are extraordinarily good.
Now Giorgio Armani connects both worlds in the latest version of Code. This is surprising, as the EDT is indeed an extremely special, but also mass-appealing "crowd-pleaser." The Elixir surprisingly diverges strongly from its siblings and dives into the dark world of luxury fragrances.
One can imagine the scent as if taking the EDT, overlaying this base DNA with very prominently present and smoky leather and vanilla. Those who tend to shy away from strong leather fragrances may find relief here: For it is not a musty, harsh leather, but - despite a strong intensity - a gentle leather that never comes across as intrusive. The base DNA of Code is not completely gone, but it clearly takes a back seat. The scent profile could, in a blind test, be attributed to a Tom Ford, albeit with significantly less mustiness. In the designer realm, one would probably not expect this fragrance, especially not as a flanker of a Code.
When comparing it to the EDT, the latter will still be the stronger everyday scent, unless one is a lover of leather fragrances. Especially for niche enthusiasts, the Elixir is worth a test. The quality, longevity, and sillage are extraordinarily good.
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Limited Recommendation
I was eagerly anticipating the line from R Cosmetics. Especially for men, there is yawning boredom in drugstores when it comes to grooming products and perfumes.
The line comes in a cool black design and offers everything for men, from deodorant and perfume to oils and creams.
About the Scent
The perfume itself did not blow me away; one must be honest about that. It is fresh-citrusy with a woody base - it leans a bit towards Bleu de Chanel, but you can quite clearly sense the affordable price here. It smells good but not particularly special, seamlessly fitting into the drugstore fragrances. The longevity, in my opinion, is quite weak. There isn't much more to say because the scent doesn't offer anything beyond that. It is the typical, pleasing, citrusy men's fragrance for that freshly showered feeling.
When is it worth the money anyway?
I wouldn't necessarily consider this perfume in isolation. In the end, it is primarily a range of cosmetic products, all of which feature this quite pleasant and fresh scent. These products are really high quality for little money, and the scent fits very well. The perfume is then just this scent of the product line in isolation - which it didn't necessarily need. I would rather buy other items from the line alone. However, it is quite interesting for those who like it when shampoo, cream, deodorant, and perfume all have the same scent. For this, one would have to take out a loan at Chanel, but with R, it is affordably possible.
The line comes in a cool black design and offers everything for men, from deodorant and perfume to oils and creams.
About the Scent
The perfume itself did not blow me away; one must be honest about that. It is fresh-citrusy with a woody base - it leans a bit towards Bleu de Chanel, but you can quite clearly sense the affordable price here. It smells good but not particularly special, seamlessly fitting into the drugstore fragrances. The longevity, in my opinion, is quite weak. There isn't much more to say because the scent doesn't offer anything beyond that. It is the typical, pleasing, citrusy men's fragrance for that freshly showered feeling.
When is it worth the money anyway?
I wouldn't necessarily consider this perfume in isolation. In the end, it is primarily a range of cosmetic products, all of which feature this quite pleasant and fresh scent. These products are really high quality for little money, and the scent fits very well. The perfume is then just this scent of the product line in isolation - which it didn't necessarily need. I would rather buy other items from the line alone. However, it is quite interesting for those who like it when shampoo, cream, deodorant, and perfume all have the same scent. For this, one would have to take out a loan at Chanel, but with R, it is affordably possible.
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Signature
Naysayers might say that Bleu de Chanel is not new. It is not innovative, not creative. Also not unique. Many have it. Citrusy notes and sandalwood - basically the classic fresh men's fragrance. Yet, it is quite expensive. And yes, that is true.
So what makes this scent special? What justifies the price? What sets it apart from drugstore fragrances?
The strength of Bleu de Chanel edp lies for me precisely in these classic criticisms. It is "only" citrusy-woody with a shower-gel vibe, yet it exudes a uniquely high-quality darkness without losing its freshness. A timeless elegance through the bitter-woody lemon, without ever coming off as piercing or synthetic for even a second.
I don't want to smell sweet every day; often it takes away my feeling of freshness. Too citrusy freshness can also quickly dissipate and sometimes screams summer.
Bleu de Chanel, on the other hand, is fresh without feeling summery, sweet without taking away the freshness, associable with its woody spiciness to shower gel, yet without losing elegance. Popular without being overcrowded - like a Sauvage.
Additionally, almost every popular fragrance now has known dupes in drugstores or from Arab fragrance houses - Bleu de Chanel has no known dupe, which speaks to the quality of the scent. It would have been copied countless times by now if the DNA were simply cloneable.
If I could only wear one fragrance that always fits, never annoys me, and is suitable at any time, my choice would unequivocally be this Edp.
So what makes this scent special? What justifies the price? What sets it apart from drugstore fragrances?
The strength of Bleu de Chanel edp lies for me precisely in these classic criticisms. It is "only" citrusy-woody with a shower-gel vibe, yet it exudes a uniquely high-quality darkness without losing its freshness. A timeless elegance through the bitter-woody lemon, without ever coming off as piercing or synthetic for even a second.
I don't want to smell sweet every day; often it takes away my feeling of freshness. Too citrusy freshness can also quickly dissipate and sometimes screams summer.
Bleu de Chanel, on the other hand, is fresh without feeling summery, sweet without taking away the freshness, associable with its woody spiciness to shower gel, yet without losing elegance. Popular without being overcrowded - like a Sauvage.
Additionally, almost every popular fragrance now has known dupes in drugstores or from Arab fragrance houses - Bleu de Chanel has no known dupe, which speaks to the quality of the scent. It would have been copied countless times by now if the DNA were simply cloneable.
If I could only wear one fragrance that always fits, never annoys me, and is suitable at any time, my choice would unequivocally be this Edp.
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The Right and the Left Twix
The trip to Zara a few weeks ago was actually meant to pick up a new bottle of Sunrise. But wait? Next to the fragrance was a tester of Sunrise Intense. I didn't even know it existed. No entry on Parfumo, no YouTube video. Apparently, I was one of the first to have it in hand.
I was all the more excited to compare the fragrances over time. It quickly became clear to me that the differences here can only be seen with a magnifying glass. In the first half hour, I found both to be very similar, with only the Intense appearing slightly fruitier compared to the citrusy Zara classic.
After purchasing and wearing it for a few weeks, I can now better pinpoint the subtle differences. The OG pushes the lemon forward more strongly, while the Intense has a gentler progression. The lemon is still there, but it feels creamier and better contained by the base.
I can't compare it to
Imagination as I don't know it well enough. However, I see parallels to the previously unique "Allure Homme Édition Blanche (Eau de Parfum) | Chanel," which has already presented this creamy lemon in perfection.
Overall, the Intense in this creamy lemon variant feels very well balanced, and it leaves a lovely scent note on clothing for days. I am absolutely not a fan of Zara fragrances, but with this variant, they have truly delivered.
I was all the more excited to compare the fragrances over time. It quickly became clear to me that the differences here can only be seen with a magnifying glass. In the first half hour, I found both to be very similar, with only the Intense appearing slightly fruitier compared to the citrusy Zara classic.
After purchasing and wearing it for a few weeks, I can now better pinpoint the subtle differences. The OG pushes the lemon forward more strongly, while the Intense has a gentler progression. The lemon is still there, but it feels creamier and better contained by the base.
I can't compare it to
Imagination as I don't know it well enough. However, I see parallels to the previously unique "Allure Homme Édition Blanche (Eau de Parfum) | Chanel," which has already presented this creamy lemon in perfection. Overall, the Intense in this creamy lemon variant feels very well balanced, and it leaves a lovely scent note on clothing for days. I am absolutely not a fan of Zara fragrances, but with this variant, they have truly delivered.
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Unexpected.
"A dupe more in the drugstore. What have they taken on this time? Ah, Lost Cherry. Probably one-dimensional, synthetic cherry and weak projection. Is that really necessary?"
This is how many people might feel when they think of a drugstore dupe of Lost Cherry. And I too have been extremely disappointed by the longevity and projection of such purchases. Best regards to Zara.
But here it's different. Completely different. From the very first whiff, I was puzzled. Where is the one-dimensional, synthetic cherry? Instead, I got a dark, smoky cherry that could easily be sold to me as the original. I would not have expected such incredible depth and complexity. Did someone pour Lost Cherry into the tester?
"Okay. But probably no one will smell it, and if they do, only for the first four minutes." But wait a minute. Two sprays are enough, and you can hardly get it out of your nose for the next few hours? What is happening here?
However, I also don't want to say too much about the longevity, because it would simply be unfair to expect brutal longevity for 8€, something that the Tom Ford folks themselves haven't managed. The original is so heavily criticized for its poor longevity that you simply can't have any expectations for 8€. Whether it's weak right away or even better doesn't really matter.
The scent is by far the best thing I've ever had under my nose in a drugstore, and at the same time, it highlights the shortcomings of a 300€ fragrance. Hats off.
This is how many people might feel when they think of a drugstore dupe of Lost Cherry. And I too have been extremely disappointed by the longevity and projection of such purchases. Best regards to Zara.
But here it's different. Completely different. From the very first whiff, I was puzzled. Where is the one-dimensional, synthetic cherry? Instead, I got a dark, smoky cherry that could easily be sold to me as the original. I would not have expected such incredible depth and complexity. Did someone pour Lost Cherry into the tester?
"Okay. But probably no one will smell it, and if they do, only for the first four minutes." But wait a minute. Two sprays are enough, and you can hardly get it out of your nose for the next few hours? What is happening here?
However, I also don't want to say too much about the longevity, because it would simply be unfair to expect brutal longevity for 8€, something that the Tom Ford folks themselves haven't managed. The original is so heavily criticized for its poor longevity that you simply can't have any expectations for 8€. Whether it's weak right away or even better doesn't really matter.
The scent is by far the best thing I've ever had under my nose in a drugstore, and at the same time, it highlights the shortcomings of a 300€ fragrance. Hats off.
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