itscoraline

Immediately after spraying: OK yeah, I get why this is popular, considering the current fragrance trends. I smell like a sesame snickerdoodle.

The heart and base add a little tonka bean and the vaguest hint of wood, but the entire thing is smothered under a thick layer of sweet marshmallow cream.

In all honesty, this just isn’t my type of gourmand. It smells good for about 5 minutes before becoming aggravating to my nose (it probably doesn’t help that my skin amplifies sweet notes).

Projection and longevity are both on the higher end of moderate. Unisex but the marshmallow reads somewhat feminine coded.

Opens with an almost pure allspice note (the pepper is completely lost to my nose) that is followed shortly by a light incense and resin.

It’s an interestingly cool and retiring sort of church incense, more like the lingering scent on a priest’s vestments than the rich spices this type of fragrance usually has.

Unfortunately there’s something in it that turns slightly sour and acrid (almost tar adjacent) on my skin so this isn’t for me, but I still recommend testing this if you enjoy an incense note but find most of those fragrances too heavy.

Projection is moderate, and longevity is around 8-9 hours. Gender is shy clergy.

The open is a startling blend of the expected (apricot-and-suede osmanthus) and unexpected (spicy liquorice). It has a definite “cozy witch’s home” vibe, even though it isn’t witchy in the traditional fragrance sense.

After 20 min the liquorice fades and some gentle rose and moss enters. At this stage it’s nice but not particularly special, and I make a “meh, not full bottle worthy” mental note.

BUT THEN…

The base kicks in and I. Am. Hooked.

The witch is all loved up, and it’s gentle and romantic and alluring: remnants of osmanthus mix with floating musk and an absolutely incredible softly glowing amber. I don’t know what magic Heretic used to conjure that amber, but it’s intoxicating and I want to bathe in the stuff.

Full bottle, here I come.

Protection starts moderate and fades to intimate. As with many of Heretic’s scents, it isn’t especially long lived (around 5-6 hours). Gender is bewitched lover.

In a few words: a very lovely simple, linear fragrance that beautifully showcases iris and sandalwood. It’s minimalism done right, and I’m here for it.

But…there’s a but.

While sandalwood is one of my favourite notes, unfortunately Guichard decided to make Australian sandalwood (santalum spicatum) the hero here. It’s my least favourite species due to its sharpness, and even the addition of creamy tonka bean doesn’t quite conceal that little edge.

For comparison, my beloved Peau Santal uses New Caledonian sandalwood (santalum austrocaledonicum), which is sweeter, warmer, and richer, akin to Indian sandalwood but more sustainable.

Of course all of this is just personal preference, but hey this is a subjective hobby and that’s where I’m at.

Projection and longevity are both in the higher end of moderate, and the scent profile is completely unisex.

Opens with sharp juniper, which always reads a bit medicinal to my nose. This slowly fades away, replaced by warm, sweetly powdered wood and a mellow patchouli spiciness.

Once the biting top note is gone, the fragrance is quite linear and there is something reserved and even austere about it. It’s clearly very well made, but also extremely specific — to love this fragrance you need to love one or two very particular notes.

Unfortunately, this means that to me it feels like it’s missing something (even though I’m generally a fan of simple fragrance construction) and doesn’t move me much one way or the other. I’m even struggling to come up with a title for this review, because I really didn’t respond to this perfume beyond “it’s a pleasant enough, powdery wood fragrance.”

Projection is at the top end of moderate, and longevity is high, so a few sprays will last all day. Scent profile is completely unisex.