Types of Musk 6

Could someone please give an explanation of the difference between black musk and white musk as opposed to plain old musk? I've seen them mentioned as notes in some fumes. Is it just a marketing ploy or is there an actual difference as far as type and source outside of a dirty/clean description, taking into account both natural sources and synthetics?

Three random examples:

Le Gemme - Amunae Black musk

001 Man Eau de Parfum White musk

001 Man Eau de Toilette Musk

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Black musk used to be extracted from animals' glands. Nowadays, it's a combination of resinous and earthy notes to create a similar sensation.

White musk is extracted from ambrette seeds and is thus floral and sweeter.

Synthetic musk (molecules we keep seeing listed as ingredients, e.g. in Afrika-Olifant) simply mimics the molecules present in actual musk (deer, civet).

There are farms where they extract the glands without killing or significantly harming the animal, but that's still animal cruelty in my book.

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It is mainly just a marketing thing. Pretty much every fragrance you buy nowadays is going to be made from synthetic musk (aside from the obvious ethical problems, the real stuff is expensive as hell). So 'black musk' or 'white musk' is meant to give you an idea of the timbre of the musky notes... whether they're dark and animalic, or clean and soapy. I've seen brands list musks of just about every color in the rainbow in their notes.

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There are dozens of different types of synthetic musks which smell really different. To make it easier, they are categorised in white musk, black musk or just musk but each one is different from the others. Their real names are e.g. Galactolide, Muscone, Helvetolide, Ambrettolide and many more.

If you compare Musk Oil , Muschio BiancoOriginal Musk Blend No. 1 and White Musk Eau de Parfum you already get an idea.

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In short: there really are differences between musks (so it's not just a marketing thing), and here are a few sources to learn more.

From Phlur:

"Synthetic musk, often referred to as white musk, is found in three different variations: aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds and macrocyclic musk compounds. Polycyclic and macrocyclic musks are the most common derivations that impart a powdery and soft scent."

From Experimental Perfume Club:

"There are dozens of musks but here are 4 of the most common ‘white’ synthetic musks used in fragrances...

1) Galaxolide
...slightly sweet and floral with a powdery, fresh, clean scent...

2) Habanolide
...stronger and slightly 'woodier' and a metallic undertone...

3) Ambrettolide
...soapy... with fruity undertones... replicates ambrette seed oil...

4) Ethylene Brassylate
... sweeter with hints of vanilla, woods and spices..."

From Anthony Marmin:

"White musk has a clean smooth scent without fecal notes found in original black musk.
...One fascinating aspect of white musk is its variability in texture, which can range from creamy white to nearly transparent."

(To me, the "creamy" white musks can smell more like ambrette - and the "transparent" white musks can feel more like an airy aldehyde.)

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I don't think there's any functional difference in terms of scent. The "black musk" in Le Gemme - Amunae is the most boring "clean"/fresh laundry type of scent. It doesn't give you any indication as to the actual molecule used, whether it's galaxolide, ambrettolide, habanolide, exaltolide, musk ketone, velvione, etc, or in what proportions. Here's an example of a very simple musk accord that Perfumer's Apprentice uses in their perfume classes. Here's a more complicated more realistic Tonkin musk accord. Here's the musk accord used in Black Dog which they're actually just calling "civet" in the note breakdown.

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There are several artisanal fragrance houses that still use real musk extracted from deer. For example, Bortnikoff uses Siberian Musk Deer (Kabarga) musk in many of their perfumes (e.g. Bortnikoff - Musk Khabib, Bortnikoff - Musk Cologne, etc.) Areej le Dore is another artisanal house that uses real deer musk. The prices of their fragrances reflect the rarity of the ingredients used.

99.9% of perfume wearers have never smelled REAL oud, musk, rose oil, etc. IMO, the synthetic ouds, musk, rose oil smell NOTHING like the actual substances in terms of quality and depth.  You have to first smell the real deal to know what I'm talking about...

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Honestly, I find smelling real deer musk as unnecessary and undesirable like travelling to an active war zone. 

Real essential rose oil instead is available in every organic shop and in many farmacies from brands like Primavera for example. If you're lucky, they even offer different types like Bulgarian rose or rosa damascena. Same applies to real jasmine essential oil (which is allergenic like hell by the way, that's why synthetic options are usually preferred).

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Fraujulia

Honestly, I find smelling real deer musk as unnecessary and undesirable like travelling to an active war zone. 

This!

Actually, travelling to an active war zone would be more desirable. Maybe you could do some good, offer some help instead of supporting cruelty towards animals for the purpose of some effing scented waters. 

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 Deleted due to being off topic

Last edited by Kraemdon on 04/06/2025 - 12:13 PM; edited 3 times in total
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Last edited by Smirky on 04/07/2025 - 03:11 PM; edited 1 time in total
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Talking about musk, have you ever smelt Musc Tonkin Extrait de Parfum ? it's another interesting work from Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. Clean and dirty at the same time, and, at my opinion, very close to to what a natural musc would smell like.

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EvitaVilla

Talking about musk, have you ever smelt Musc Tonkin Extrait de Parfum ? it's another interesting work from Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. Clean and dirty at the same time, and, at my opinion, very close to to what a natural musc would smell like.

No, I haven't tried it. How does it compare to the EdP version? Just stronger?

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Smirky
EvitaVilla

Talking about musk, have you ever smelt Musc Tonkin Extrait de Parfum ? it's another interesting work from Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. Clean and dirty at the same time, and, at my opinion, very close to to what a natural musc would smell like.

No, I haven't tried it. How does it compare to the EdP version? Just stronger?

it's the "Beast mode" of the EdP. I usually hate the word "Beast" for a perfume, but for this one, it's appropriate.

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Smirky

Could someone please give an explanation of the difference between black musk and white musk as opposed to plain old musk? I've seen them mentioned as notes in some fumes. Is it just a marketing ploy or is there an actual difference as far as type and source outside of a dirty/clean description, taking into account both natural sources and synthetics?

Three random examples:

Le Gemme - Amunae Black musk

001 Man Eau de Parfum White musk

001 Man Eau de Toilette Musk

@Smirky the white musk normally comes from the flower called musk or is synthetic and has this cleanliness quality. Black musk is deer musk and is extremely expensive as the certain male animals get on top of rocky hills and they rub against some surfaces of the rocks. While they are doing this they somehow empty the largest quantity of their gland extract. A bit later trained people collect the substance from the side of the rocks and this is legitimate as the animal does not suffer and must leave the extract there so his gland produces new. There is also another meaning for musk which is fresh type of fragrance with certain citrus fruits, ozonic notes or green notes, certain types of flowers like peonia, rose, jasmin,violet leaves, certain woods like orris ,vetiver, cedar, cashmir plus amber and the flower of musk.

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