For eleven years now, human noses have been able to enjoy "Relativamente Rosso" (RR). For me, it is an erotic incense fragrance with immortelle and amber.
The previous speakers have already recognized the fragrance correctly and classified it aptly. Thank you for your kind words! - "Chnokfir" describes the majestic, almost exuberant opulence. with the amusing anecdote that in Italy traffic light red is sometimes regarded as relative, "Landlord" provides a conclusive derivation of the fragrance name, underlining the wicked, taboo-breaking character of the perfume. "Ergreifend" lends lyrical expression to the intoxicating lust that this fragrance can exude and, with the neologism "Lustwaffe", also points to the way this fragrance plays with breaking taboos. "Haraella" emphasizes the supporting and pronounced role of incense in RR with its association to incense burners and recognizes that the fragrance has not only rough but also homely, calming aspects. "Minigolf" describes the brilliant opening as well as the dusty, sandy aspect of the fragrance. "Josefina" emphasizes the sweet, gourmand aspect of RR - reminiscent of dried fruit, cognac and caramel.
In my opinion, the basic structure of RR is frankincense. It is the alpha and omega of this fragrance, as it plays first fiddle right from the start and remains the last thing present in the drydown.
The opening of RR is a (double) olfactory first strike: incense and sugar-sweet May rose hit the olfactory organ. Boom! Beware of overdosing, because this fragrance has immense power. This initial phase is wild and impetuous. It transcends the usual boundaries of how a fragrance should present itself. Naturally, this breaking of taboos can polarize.
After half an hour, the heart of the fragrance gradually emerges. It is the combination of incense, immortelle (immortelle flower) and amber. The chewy davana also supports the immortelle, but in my opinion it is only a quarter as strong as the immortelle. The immortelle is responsible for the dusty-sandy scent aura. - The amber provides opulence, bordering on pomposity. It is the originator of the calming, cozy aspect of RR.
Not much changes from the middle section of the fragrance to the end. RR undergoes its greatest transformation from the opening to the middle section, where the heart and base have fully unfolded. The very last thing that remains after twelve hours or so is incense.
RR smells smoky, ambery, sweet, woody and dusty (straw/sandy). There are clear oriental associations because of the incense, amber and opulence.
I thought for a long time about whether the fragrance smells resinous. And my answer is: no, except for the hidden resinous aspect of amber and incense. At first I thought - like many who had categorized this fragrance - that RR obviously smelled resinous. Over time, I realized that immortelle and davana in combination with incense (and, for all I know, amber) create a fragrance aura that is close to the impression of resinousness, but different from it when sniffed intensively. Somewhat paradoxically, one could say that the fragrance smells resinous, roughly speaking, but not strictly speaking. "Almost resinous" is the best way to put it, I think.
Nowadays, advertisements - including most YouTube videos about perfumes - often claim that certain fragrances are "sexy", i.e. a bit erotic or eroticizing. As a rule, I think these are hollow advertising phrases. Most so-called sexy fragrances don't create the promised atmosphere for me at all. Not everything that is sweet is erotic. And not all fragrances that are erotic to my brain are sweet.
So what makes an erotic scent? - Of course, it's not that simple, otherwise fragrance producers could apply this recipe in many different ways. In my opinion, the essential characteristic of erotic fragrances is the interplay of provocation, challenge and excitement on the one hand and affection, intimacy and devotion on the other. For me, all erotic fragrances are both crass and cuddly. Eroticism therefore possibly arises from the right combination of coarseness and softness. Eroticism is the promise of intimate physicality, which combines a certain - albeit controlled! - Ruthlessness combined with consideration. Eroticism therefore requires a sophisticated, appropriate combination of good and "bad".
RR is an erotic fragrance because it combines the opposites of wildness and cuddliness. It is initially stirring, wild and thus draws attention to itself. You are torn out of the drowsiness of everyday life and awakened. The opening is not yet erotic, but reveals great passion, which is associated with eroticism. Only the middle section up to the drydown is actually erotic. This is where rugged, dry, spicy smokiness and gentle, beguiling, confidence-building amber are combined. All in all, the fragrance whispers to you: "Hey - I want you! Let's do something together in intimacy and agreement...!"
The taboo-breaking eroticism of RR becomes even clearer with a comparative fragrance. RR creates the same fragrance aura as
1740. The fragrance notes hardly match, of course, but the atmosphere is almost the same. RR is essentially incense with immortelle and amber, and 1740 is mainly leather with immortelle and spices. Immortelle is surprisingly present in both fragrances, which gives them a kind of opulent dryness that keeps the scent from slipping into dirty sultriness and greasiness. i see 1740 as baroque, RR as oriental - but both as opulent. Incidentally, 1740 is the year in which the Marquis de Sade was born. In this respect, the play with breaking taboos also gives this fragrance its name. This proves once again how similar the two fragrances are.
Another comparable fragrance is
Casbah. There, however, the confidence-building, cozy part is not present, but only the rough, crass part. It is an incense fragrance that is darkened and "evil" by tobacco and angelica root. Pepper is also included. And so the fragrance is "full on twelve". You could say that RR is a child of Casbah and 1740.
Because RR is also quite powerful and resounding, I am surprised that 58% of its owners here at Parfumo are female. I see the fragrance as masculine, not even unisex. Surely a self-confident woman can wear it if she wants to be a "vamp". - Presumably the red bottle color, the pompous name and the marketing classification as unisex have led to more women turning to this fragrance.
The bottom line is that RR is a fantastic, courageous, creatively and intelligently composed, outstanding and erotic fragrance. In my opinion, it is not easy to wear, i.e. its field of application is very limited. I see it as a seductive winter getaway fragrance.
Of course, there is nothing to stop us perfume aficionados from wearing such a fragrance on a summer evening - as was the case at the time this article was published. With this in mind: Have fun with your perfumes - and maybe with RR too!