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Stinxjo
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And ode to Debauchery
Beaufort's Rake and Ruin is in my opinion the best release from the house and the greatest fragrance I have ever smelled. At its most fundamental level this is an oddly simple fragrance built on two (brutally photorealistic) accords of gin and cigarette ash, and yet it is an insanely multifaceted and transgressive scent characterized by nonstop evolution from the initial spray until the very last whiff.
The notes list is incredibly long, though I am of opinion that there is not much point in reading rather than smelling. And yet, one thing that becomes apparent, both to the nose and to the reader, is that the smoke persists through all the layers of this fragrance, from the topmost periphery, through the core and down to the base. And yet, unlike the smoke traditional to the craft where it usually figures as calm and sweet, balsamic, sexy, spicy and so on, in this bottle it is not sweet, it is not gentle and it doesn't even strive to be pleasant. In fact, it tries to be as realistic and harsh as it possibly can be, emulating stale cigarette ash and bums, aggressive smoke that permeates everything and refuses to go away. This is then augmented with the cluster of juniper, angelica and orris which results in a masterful replication of a gin scent which can quite literally feel like you've opened up a bottle of Hendrick's and put it up to your nose.
And while these two accords are the staple of the fragrance, they are by no means exhaustive and the scent flows and evolves like a fluid through it's lifetime until the very end. While in the first twenty minutes or so, it may smell quite literally like you've been throwing cigarette bums in a glass of gin (I am not ashamed to admit that this is my favorite part), it very quickly changes up and develops a green, pine-y, foresty smell. Some time later it develops an almost ozonic feel with a bit of earthiness until all of those become very prominent. After it's dried down for two hours or so, it practically smells like you are sipping on gin & tonic and smoking hand-rolled cigarettes, just by the ashes of last night's campfire out in the woods, in an early rainy morning. And then in the very late drydown it smells like you are out of gin (though your breath gives you away) and are now having a walk in that same green, rainy forest while the smell of cigarettes has seeped deep into your clothes.
Like most other Beaufort creations, this is a three-dimensional, naturalistic fragrance with quite a bit of edge to it, and yet, like my main criticism towards this house's other creations, the only downside is that it doesn't last nearly as long as I would like it to. Even though it performs better than the others, it's got about six or seven hours of longevity.
Ultimately, this is punk scent for bohemians with love of mother's ruin and extensive fondness for tobacco, though by no means willing to call themselves aficionados finding it awfully posh and obnoxious.