1st Collection

Mysterious Oud Bortnikoff 2018 Extrait de Parfum

Mysterious Oud (Extrait de Parfum) by Bortnikoff

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7.8 / 10 111 Ratings

A popular limited perfume by Bortnikoff for women and men, released in 2018. The scent is spicy-woody. The longevity is above-average. It is still in production.
Limited Edition

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Main accords

Spicy

Woody

Animal

Resinous

Floral

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes

Cardamom

Orange

Amber

Bergamot

Heart Notes

Myrrh

Nutmeg

Pink pepper

Cinnamon

Castoreum

Clove

Rose

Jasmine

Tonka bean

Base Notes

Indian oud

Oud

Opoponax

Sandalwood

Tolu balm

Labdanum

Cedarwood

Lotus

Vanilla

Perfumer & Creative Guidance

Dmitry Bortnikoff Brand owner, Perfume maker

Ratings

Scent

7.8111 Ratings

Longevity

8.1101 Ratings

Sillage

7.5101 Ratings

Bottle

8.286 Ratings

Value for money

6.246 Ratings

Submitted by FRAgrANTIC, last update on 26.03.2024.

Interesting Facts

The fragrance is part of the "1st Collection" collection.

Reviews

4 in-depth fragrance descriptions

02/23/2024

6
Pricing 9
Bottle 9
Sillage 10
Longevity 5.5
Scent

Omnipotato
56 Reviews

Omnipotato

1

Polarizing animalic fragrance

Mysterious Oud is my last review of my six samples, and I took a while intentionally to give this one a few wearings. It is definitely quite complicated, intense, and polarizing, so I wanted to get the full effect over multiple days. I've concluded that Mysterious Oud is simply not for me.

First of all, I don't really get the citrus and spices many reviewers are talking about. I suppose there are some citruses in the mix to accentuate the top end of the resinous notes as is often done in oriental perfumes, but I don't get them as distinct notes. As for spices, I don't get any at all, which is weird because this is rated mainly as a spicy-woody fragrance.

What I do get are intense florals (mostly jasmine/neroli) and a huge animalic accord that is unique from any I have tried before. I've tried my share of fecal/barnyard-y ouds and stinky animalic notes, but this combination of oud, castoreum, and resins (mostly myrrh I think) is giving the distinct impression of...cheese? That's probably the nearest I can get to describing it. Definitely interesting and unique, but I don't think I want to go around smelling like this.

10/28/2023

9
Scent

DrB1414
148 Reviews

DrB1414

2

Resinous and Spicy Oud experience

By far my favorite offering from this house. For me, Bortnikoff was mostly a miss or a meeh, especially when there were better alternatives in the artisanal game. None really stood out to me as much as Mysterious Oud.

Mysterious Oud got reformulated, and after comparing, I would say that the OG is more Woody/Oud dominant, and has more oomph to it. The Roja cap bottles feel more sheer, less woody, bit more ambery/spicy. More Westernized, let's say. Still very similar, and share the same DNA.
This perfume is an absolutely gorgeous melange of warm spices, lots of natural Oud, sweet resins, and a beautiful leathery, chewy castoreum. The overall effect is of an oud perfume, supported by the warmth of the spices and resins, with a bit of a dirty touch from the beaver. Quite simple, but very well done, and very unique smelling. I can't compare this to anything out there. It really shines in cold weather, even though I wear it all year round. In the cold, all the warmth surfaces to envelope you into a most satisfying aura. The best Bortnikoff in my books.

05/15/2023

7
Pricing 9
Bottle 7
Sillage 6
Longevity 7.5
Scent

EnomisCVD
138 Reviews

EnomisCVD

2

Resinous oud experience

Overbearing opening of oud with hints of benzene.
However, after few seconds, here emerges a resinous sweetness in a heart where I also perceive spices (cinnamon, cloves) and flowers (rose).
In this case the oud used are of three types: Thai, Vietnamese and Indian.
This blend envelops all notes in its delicate and smooth aroma providing intensity and depth.
It actually reminds me too of Jubilation with an higher quality (for example the oud used which is much richer and more multifaceted).

08/13/2022

BobbyGee
220 Reviews

BobbyGee

3

Bortnikoff / Mysterious Oud

Let me start by saying that, in my opinion, the smell may be considered by some to be heavier among the available agar fragrances and unaccustomed people.
My perception of this fragrance has changed over the years. I think that apart from the change in my perception resulting from the large number of scents I have known, including ingredients from different parts of the world, the smell itself has also changed (the original version vs. the current versions). The current one seems less invasive.
I personally find something narcotic about it. [I measure the level of narcosis in the perception of perfumes by the number of gummies over time ... here the time unit may be different. After all - the average resulting from the substitution of data into this formula is above the average ... and transforming the result into a percentage record, where 100% is a constant holding of the nose to the wrist, and 0% is one smack and the desire to cut off the hand - the result is around 80 %] :-)
With this fragrance, under the Bortnikoff-Dima brand, he began his march along the path to offer others something comparable and often better than very good, real agar perfumes from the Middle East. The premiere took place in 2018 and for some it is his best agar perfume, for others not. A matter of taste, reception, preferences, etc.
The smell is dense in reception from the very beginning. People who like 'agar' fragrances available in Europe may be curious and surprised (I will not elaborate on IFRA and EU regulations here - the topic of the river).
Whatever the case, in Mysterious Oud we have incl. naturally sourced and used agar oils from different types of 'infected' trees and from different parts of the world. The distillation was taken care of by the company of 2 friends (Dima and Russian Adam) -Feel Oud, opened for the purpose of acquiring them, and the place - Thailand.
We have very well blended agar oils from agar trees from India, Vietnam and Thailand. Unfortunately, I am not a specialist who knows with closed eyes, but with an open mind - when and which of them enters the stage, but I can clearly feel the differences when using them. Other notes that soften this strong combination of oud and make it more accessible are delicate-sounding citrus (I can smell oranges), spices (cinnamon), as well as smoothing the sharpness of an additional fragrance (about which in a moment) - by adding a light embalming and light sweetness (noticeable over time) thanks to the addition of myrrh, opoponax, tolu balm, tonka beans. Now for the extra note that I feel here clearly and which may be heavier for some people in combination with the thick agar sound is a castoreum. I can feel it clearly and once - at the beginning of my adventure with this fragrance, I experienced this kind of distinct animality quite intensely. If I were to visualize the scent of these perfumes - these are agar trees covered with resins with spices pressed here and there and nibbled by an uneaten beaver. For some, the beginning may be a bit skunky. These are not perfumes with a typically neutral overtone, such as Oud Monarch, Tabac d'Ore, Sayat Nova or Triad. Personally, I recommend agarophiles and all those with open minds when it comes to getting to know smells, especially to those who understand the word NICHE.