Very helpful Review
After the somewhat "new" ways of the last, fourth, collection, there was a great hope among the old-established Bortnikoff fans, among whom I count myself, that Dmitry would find back a little more to his form of the first to third collection.
Of course, an artist evolves and goes through different phases in his creative development. These are reflected above all in his works. In the case of Bortnikoff in fragrances.
I was looking forward to Oud Sinharaja with the greatest hope, since oudh and floral infusions are absolutely synonymous with Dmitry DNA.
The start of the fragrance is massively reminiscent of the two Colognes (Amber & Musk). The reason for this is the well over 90% identical interplay of real-fruity citric (bergamot, grapefruit) with the hand-made signature infusion of frangipani, nutmeg and jasmine sambac.
Nice, but a little sobering.
Because that just givens / already existed.
In this case Dmitry builds the fragrance very classically and as a thoroughbred chypre. The Sri Lanka Oudh from the Amber Cologne is also used again. All in all, the fragrance appears round and plays in a league with the other premium chypre. Especially artisan.
Rarely have I had more of a feeling of being presented with a Bortnikoff "building block" scent of proven and successful chords than with this one.
For brand newcomers, certainly a paradigm shift compared to the rest of the niche. And definitely a good, even by men, wearable floral chypre scent. The oudh is mega-soft and captivates with its natural brilliance, than with purposeless Barnyard romance.
For me, in fact, the biggest disillusionment, if not disappointment from a creative point of view, from the current collection.
Again the recommendation: samples or 9ml atomizer, instead of 50ml bottle.