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Profumo
Top Review
36
Why always so much cashmere, Mrs. Laurent?
Yeah, the scent's great.
Déclartion' has always been a great fragrance (at least in my opinion) and Mathilde Laurent, the head perfumer of Cartier, obviously doesn't see it any differently, otherwise she wouldn't pay so much attention to the DNA of the original fragrance in all the flanks she created.
The creator of the fragrance, which was launched more than 20 years ago, also considers it to be one of his best, according to his own statements.
A homage to 'Eau d'Hermès', the early masterpiece of Edmond Roudnitskas, which his pupil reinterpreted almost half a century later.
Unlike his teacher, Jean-Claude Ellena placed the basic character of his new fragrance more in the direction of a semi-oriental chypre fragrance and let the clear leather nuances of the Roudnitska fragrance take a back seat.
Mathilde Laurent now makes sure that exactly these leather notes appear more strongly again, which does not lead, however, to the fact that the new smell would change back a piece in the direction of 'Eau d'Hermès', no, she develops it further in the direction of her own fragrance fingerprint, and this is characterized above all by the frequent one of a fragrance, by Cashmeran.
Mathilde Laurent loves Cashmeran. In many of her creations it can be experienced in a rare quantity and unfolds beside all its wonderfully fragrant aspects unfortunately also its - at least for me - unpleasant sides.
But Mme Laurent is not the only one who enriches her formulas with an excess of cashmeran: François Demachy, for example, has also delighted his all-sided applauded 'Eau Sauvage Parfum' (also originally a Roudnitska fragrance) with it, as has Maurice Roucel his 'Dans tes bras'.
Mathilde Laurent herself has overloaded her own 'Roadster' with it, as well as the wonderful patchouli scent 'L'Heure Mysterieuse'.
Cashmeran can now be found quite wonderful, especially if you appreciate sweetish light woodsy nuances in combination with a distant musk-like skin note, but you can also quickly get annoyed by it - annoyed by all the synthetic caramel woodsy baby skin fluffiness.
Strangely enough, the cashmeran in 'Déclaration Parfum' doesn't bother me as much as in the Dior fragrance or in 'Roadster', because the base notes keep its light beige sweetness quite well in check. Nevertheless it is there, and unfortunately clearly recognizable. Especially the comparison with Ellena's 'Déclaration' makes it stand out.
At the moment I have his scent on the back of one hand and Mme Laurent's version on the other.
In itself, the perfume version is not bad: it is full-sounding, unfolds volume and a richly orchestrated depth, all pervaded by the familiar 'Déclaration' sound, but tuned darker, richer. The brighter sounding brilliance, the steel power and refinement of the original, however, she does not achieve.
That's no big deal, since 'Déclaration' perfume is in quite respectable company here: because similar to this supposed 'perfume' (probably an EdP) it's the same with other heavyweights like the already mentioned 'Eau Sauvage Parfum', but also 'Hèritage Eau de Parfum', 'Dior Homme Parfum', 'Fahrenheit Parfum', or 'PuH de Caron Impact' - all of them don't reach the class of their EdT-representatives.
Of course, it's all a matter of taste. Some prefer rather scent bolides in modernistic bloated style (Cashmeran, Ambroxan & Co...), but it's too loud for me, too SUV-like, too much sound generator pose.....
The original 'Déclaration' on the back of my other hand simply smells better: fresher, brighter, more refined. The for many so precarious spices, cardamom and a hint of cumin, come to better effect and the orange ripened to full beauty later in the 'Cologne Bigarade' can already be experienced here. Everything in a wonderful balance and not yet following Ellena's later minimalism command, evaporated beyond measure.
But also not disguised and glued by Mathilde Laurent's beloved Cashmeran. I must be glad that Mr Demachy didn't get his hands on the scent - probably he would have added more cashmeran and ambroxan to the formula and pumped it up to a farce of his own.
No, luckily 'Déclaration Parfum' is not a farce, but can be really seen.
So far, so la la...
A good fragrance, but not a superior one.
Outstanding is and remains the old 'Déclaration'.
Durability and projection are good, but no better than the original.
And the bottle is just as ugly...
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