Pasha de Cartier Cartier 1992 Eau de Toilette

After an unimpressive experience with the Declaration collection, I was pleasantly surprised by Pasha EDT. Although already over 30 years since its release, Pasha EDT is an awesome masculine fragrance that is unique and stands on its own. Not too heavy for spring and summer but not too light for fall and winter, it should definitely work all year round. Very versatile - although maybe leaning a bit more formal - but would definitely work in a casual situation. Performance is above average for an EDT. Available quite reasonably for under $100 at discounters. But oh boy, that fragrance! Superb classic fougere. I'll be getting a full bottle for my collection real soon.

Oh, and regarding the bottle. Some guys knock it, saying it looks like a baby bottle. No, the cap is modeled after the crown of Cartier wrist watches.

Even though this is a classic from '92, I only recently acquired it. And since it was from the house of Cartier, I had high expectations. And man, it goes beyond! There's something about classics that just get me from the word go. They just knew how to make stuff back then. They knew their ingredients really well. And most importantly, I think, they cared about stuff. And more often than not stuff turned out great. Pasha de Cartier is a thoroughbred classic. An old-school woody aromatic fougere, pretty typical of the late 80's -early 90's style. Think Ysl Jazz, Tsar, 1881, Safari etc. Each of them was truly unique in very special ways but they had a lot of similarities too.

Pasha opens on a lemony-minty-tarry green note with loads of lavender to go. Initially a little tart and pungent, just for a minute maybe. Then it immediately starts to get smooth and dry, as you get whiffs of the coriander and oakmoss. It gets into the woody-spicy zone for a bit..still very dry but airy and breezy in a way. The initial citrus blast now toned down to just a subtle veil around the lavender & coriander. It's really beautiful to sense these stages go by. Very refined and mature. No theatrics whatsoever. And as the hours go by you can suddenly get wafts of creamy-dusty sandalwood and you know you have arrived.

Very masculine, very classy. In a way more reminiscent of older fragrances like Aramis or Azzaro PH, in certain aspects (not the notes). It flew right to the top of my most-used-perfumes list. If you like old-school fougeres you have to try this one. It's a class apart.

9/10

One of my favorites entry lever winter man fragrance.
Super sexy and masculine!
It really attracts women to smell it closer to the neck!
Mint, thyme and sandalwood really pop out!
It will never disappoint you!

When I sampled this I immediately perceived it to be in the same family as Creed Viking, and that makes sense because they're both lavender and spice barbershop fragrances for men. This doesn't have the absinthe note from Viking though

In some ways it could fall under the "generic men's freshie" category but I think it's the classic concept done well. This gets the nuances right and that becomes even more appreciable in the drydown

Despite being "old school" I think it holds up well for the modern young wearer

And I still remember that evening in '92, it is vivid in my mind as if it was yesterday, I was going to Switzerland for work and shortly after customs I stopped at a shop selling perfumes and tobaccos. At that time, those items costing much less than in Italy because of the change rate, about 30% less. Pasha de Cartier had just come out, look great on the shelf, and the shop assistant told me to try it. But then I was too young for such a huge bouquet, and then I opted for a more suitable Ungaro II. Fast forward to this era, a few weeks ago, before lockdown began, I was sniffing Pour un Homme by Caron, and the clerk said to me, "Have you ever smelt the new perfume Pasha de Cartier EDP?" and I shook my head. She sprayed the back of my hands with both Pasha EDT and EDP to smell and compare. And that's how I rediscovered a scent that is appropriate now at my age, and that I love more now than then, it is less intense, obscure, and more wearable, tractable, more in line with contemporary tastes. The gross oakmoss is trimmed down to a shadow of its former self, and you now get to experience the richness of the spices and herbal notes. In case you are thinking about what Pasha smells like, try to imagine the 80's strong powerhouse perfumes, for example, Tsar, Kouros, Jazz, and Ted Lapidus. Here, Pasha does not assimilate to any of these, but strength and harshness are reminiscent, more floral nuances and sweet accords are present.

Pasha de Cartier is an olfactory interpretation of the eponymous watch. The name Pasha suggests some Middle Eastern feeling; still, that's not detectable in any of the stages. Every note and facet is carefully and correctly balanced with one another. It is built around a fougère accord, and on my skin, it opens with fresh, minty, and very aromatic nuances. Anyone who does not like the smell of anise-like note, such as fennel, will not like this fragrance from the beginning. It's mossy, raspy, and sensual. Thyme is the first odorous note that punches my nostrils, featuring a green and minty pillar, a lavender that mixes and brings the aspect of barbershop exceptionally well-matched as it usually smacks in the face like a punch. Lastly, a tangy mandarin orange peel joins the party. A touch of caraway provides a rough, dirty, raunchy edge to it. The opening is terrific, it doesn't last long, but that initial blast is gorgeous.

Then it quickly starts to get smooth and dry, as you get whiffs of the incense coriander and woody Brazilian rosewood. It gets into the woody and spicy zone for a bit, still very dry but airy and breezy too some extent. The initial citrus-balsamic blast now toned down to just a subtle veil around the lavender and coriander. The sweetened nuances hidden in Pasha are the result of the Golden Alyssum, which usually attracts various pollinating insects. Not knowing what sweet alyssum smells like, I started doing some research. It's like a potent mixture of pollen and clover honey, earning its name "sweet" alyssum and basket-of-gold.

The dry-down is beautiful as all the previous notes linger on mixed with deep patchouli and moss, giving it that classic masculine core. Milky sandalwood and patchouli reinforce these nuances, and earthy oakmoss makes its entrance, majestic but with elegance and grace. The final touch of refinement comes with labdanum, here much more ambery than leathery. Sandalwood lends its soft, exotic touch throughout and ties everything together magically.

Because I own this and Noire, I've opted to make this the Fall scent due to it's denser wood and spice notes and Noire the Spring thanks to its citrus and floral opening, but truthfully either could easily be year-round scents. Its sillage on the skin is moderate, and its longevity lasts all day. I can't afford to live and dress like a king, but it's nice to know I can smell like a king thanks to Pasha de Cartier!

Stay safe; stay well.

-Elysium